That is approx 1/4th face cord vs 1/2 since it is approx 4' wide X 4' high X 2' deep. 24" long wood is a total pain in my fire box that will hold 32". I will cut most 16" that is not pre cut 16" vs 24" is unusual in my opinion now days. I will cut half of my 16" blocks in half to assist my wood to fall inside my tubular grate to "Feed The Fire"!

I am on an approx 2 face cord schedule per winter. Burning 24-7 under 60 degs. Thinking this was excessive. The eye opener is the amount of wood some are burning in the Colder areas where their wood is plentiful.

I need to keep my bed of coals going supplementing the Central unit and doing a good job but work. The sticks cut to blocks is really taking some work out of keeping my bed of coals going The “Cage” vs the initial rack is ideal .

Then add a less seasoned log to hold over night works good vs starting a fire from scratch. A killer is hard wood not holding as well as I felt it wood is costing me. I feel I need a tarp to help in the Texas heat and rain but I feel it needs to breathe to prevent molding. “And Visitors”. Now I remember relatives leaving cut wood in the woods and bringing small amours of the seasoned wood to the house vs all. Living where the wood is plentiful makes a big difference.

I’ll hope to feel like working this wood a few more years. The exercise from it makes a word of difference in staying active. My initial 20 years starting in the mid 70s took a lot out of me not having a Log Splitter and handling over 18” dia wood. 12”dia is my limit that I will tackle now and my body screams if I think about swinging my splitting maul.

I am on an approx 2 face cord schedule per winter. Burning 24-7 under 60 degs. Thinking this was excessive. The eye opener is the amount of wood some are burning in the Colder areas where their wood is plentiful. I need to keep my bed of coals going supplementing the Central unit and doing a good job but work. The sticks cut to blocks is really taking some work out of keeping my bed of coals going. The “Cage” vs the initial rack is ideal .

Then add a less seasoned log to hold over night works good vs starting a fire from scratch. A killer is hard wood not holding as well as I felt it would is costing me. I feel I need a tarp to help in the Texas heat and rain but I feel it needs to breathe to prevent molding. “And Visitors”.

Now I remember relatives leaving cut wood in the woods and bringing small amours of the seasoned wood to the house vs all. Living where the wood is plentiful makes a big difference. I’ll hope to feel like working this wood a few more years. The exercise from it makes a world of difference in staying active. My initial 20 years starting in the mid 70s took a lot out of me not having a Log Splitter and handling over 18” dia wood. 12”dia is my limit that I will tackle now and my body screams if I think about swinging my splitting maul.

I hear yeah Dude. I went Old School last wk. I broke out the Vintage Pioneer 11-60 and P 28 saws to cut up some free Silver Maple my buddy dropped off . We had a badass snow storm last week which blew over two trees beside his barn . He cut them up in 6' lengths and stacked them on his car hauler trailer and dropped it off on the weekend . So Xmas morning I fired up the old girls with some high test and Klotz R mixed @ 40-1 and made some noise . Bucked up and split approx 2 cord for next fall . Nothing like the sound and smell of 60,s vintage saws being feed Hard rock Maple in December Baby !!!!

There is no end to learning and remembering!! 16” Face Cord Cut wood is the trend in this area with the small Fire Boxes and Stoves. 24” works well for my Fire Box that can take 32” wood. The 16”- 24” works well w/o unburned ends but 16” works better (in stainless tube Grate). I enjoy the 16” long wood that I consider a self feeding fire. The blocks are not safe in a good stack for seasoning. Dictating mixed lengths for seasoning (24” at the least) cut to 16”, 12” or 8” to burn. What my Grand called “Stove-Wood”. The short wood dictated the better front guard for the 8” blocks. What is your best storage and burning length?

16" -18" is the norm for my uage . Some use 22"-24" in larger wood stove applications though !

Hello Ewalk and all! My cutting 16” logs into 8” Blocks (in the cage above) has saved me this winter. This is helping toward stretching my 2 cords of wood planned to burn. Gas Central Furnace Heat Is the major heat but direct wood heat is hard to beat. It has been the backup in emergences since the mid 70s.

This year I added a twist of cutting 16” logs into 8” blocks to stretch my planned 2 cords to burn a seasons. This winter the blocks are handy due to Neck Fusion Surgery. The weight of the blocks allows my Gallon Of Milk weight limit (less than 10 Lbs). The Block Fire is just a self feeding winner all the way…

If needed, 16” logs will turn the 7 Stainless 2” Heat Tubes Red and twice the heat. A half seasoned block or log leaves good coals for the next hotter fire.

Hey Loger , had neck fusion my self in 1991 . C-5 . C-6 disc space . Pain is all gone and do pretty well anything I want . Sounds like you have your burning procedures all set . All The Best !

Well it Is time to Clean Up and take actions toward next winter.

1. Restock piled in wood to restock with, about2 of 4 face cords short.
2. Cleaning the 6” of 14” ID chimney after 2 seasons at least monitored with Pics.

3. There is no end if you plan to “Enjoy The Heat”, with a little help Is the Twist.

4. Add Hooks to my Modifier Cage to safely rem on low access and quickly reattach.

5. The Big Plus, is the Rack/Box has locking Ends into Bottom Rails to Rem and Store.

6. I have accepted I will need help due to my Neck Fusion limits and Age (Young Folks). 7. It was a good winter with 24/7 Fires 99% of days below 60 Degs..

8. I Hope to get a good report on my fusion soon to give Riding 92 Deere a Good Test.

9. Plus, It’s time to Down Shift on Major Volunteering, Possibly receive some “Trades”!