Varnish? Maybe try a water-based poly (clear).

Loba

2K AT Invisible Protect

As ksc36 points out...Loba 2K AT Invisible Protect will do the trick. It is magnificent but expensive. I'm wondering if your professional is using an oil based or an oil modified product. The type of ambering you are seeing is VERY common with oil based or oil modified polyurethane.

Let us know the finish they are using and we can take it from there. And just in case your refinisher is using a water based product, you can expect to see "tannin pull". This is something white oak does - especially with water based polyurethane. The tannins (the yellow tones) in the wood leach to the surface and then sit there for all the world to see. This can cause white oak to turn a yellow tone that is DIFFERENT from ambering.

To prevent tannin pull, white oak requires a "sealant" to be used BEFORE the polyurethane. There are SOME products that do NOT need the sealant and there are other products that do. All ways read and follow the label.

As an aside, the finished floor in your photo is TO DIE FOR! There are SOOO many people who are killing themselves (financially) to get a wood floor to look like the "finished" floor in your photo. I would not hesitate to work with the finish in the photo in your situation. The warmth of the floors will add light and warmth to your home. It is classic. It will not have a problem with the "look" of the home. In fact it will allow your home to feel "warm" and cozy rather than cold and sterile (like a hotel lobby).

We have white oak floors all throughout our first and second floor. I also struggled with the finish making it look too yellow. Our installers create a varnish with a small percentage of white in it - they put down three samples of what they created and we chose one after seeing it on the floor. This is what we went with:

Hope this is helpful, and good luck!

Of the products I listed I'd probably start with the NordicSeal.

Thank you all for the wonderful input! I've heard a lot about the Loba Invisible seal and my only worry about this is the lead time (trying to finish this project soon!) and price since we are about at max budget (still have to furnish the entire home! ) The contractor is using a Dura Seal Oil Base Polyurethane varnish and we've also sampled a neutral by the same brand. @SJ McCarthy can you explain more about the process of sealing it first then staining? I like warm since the walls and trim will be Benjamin Moores Simply White, but the wood has a tendency to go a little more rustic and orange than I'd prefer. I think we are getting close just trying to make the final haul! Thank you again for all your advice! :)

With no light (looks pretty dark/orange with out the natural light coming through)

With lights on but no natural light because of the plastic on the windows for painting.

Natural stain Poly on the cabinets in Master Bath (white oak)

If you use an oil modified polyurethane you're going to get that golden/amber tone. Unless you use a non-yellowing urethane it's going to start out amber and get more amber with age. You need to get comfortable with the fact that using the products within your budget aren't going to give you the look you say you want. You either need to adjust your expectations or spend more money. Since flooring only gets refinished every 10 to 20 years I'd get the color I want and put off purchasing some furnishings for a while.

You will want samples of all the finishes Johnson mentioned to make sure it works with your lighting. From the lightest or palest to darkest will be Nordicseal, Natural seal, Loba invisible and then Classic seal.