I drained fuel to begin with and it drizzled out of drain plug on float bowl rather slowly. Maybe 1 qt? But it back together and added fuel and removed plug again and no fuel? Shook unit up a bit and fuel now did drain out. Is there a block in fuel line? Or crud on screen inlet inside tank?

i suppose unhooking fuel line into carb is next to check flow

Sounds like a gummed up needle valve or float sticking.

You should get air when sucking or blowing through the primmer tube, The Primer pumps air into the float bowl and forces fuel up through the main jet into the intake.

i ordered a new carb. they are $11-14 online. everyone says dont even bother with them. just replace them. so you think the fuel line to the carb is ok and it is something internal in the carb? the float lets gas into the bowl? float bowl come off with 1 bolt. this carb has fixed jet. no adjustment. easy to take jet out. yes float moves but the seat might be the issue?

Yeah, you were probably better ordering the carb. If you have good flow of fuel w/ the bowl off, it could have a swollen inlet which lowers the fuel level. I've not worked on their snow engines. Most of these series carbs are new enough where they vent internally. SO the bowl chamber must vent and the bowl itself must be sealed to the body in order to prime. The main is typically in the stem, some are a two piece. An idle air bleed comes in at the top of the carb. this may be below a screw, a plastic mixer or simply blocked.

so blowing into the primer line should push fuel from the bowl into the carb? and i should be able to feel a little restriction when i blow? as long as fuel is in bowl?

I went to using some of that dark Canadian bier to soak carburetors. 8-> Pretty righteous stuff, hey ewalk?!

Did you finally quit the stuff or were you able to find something that would trim all that chest hair that was pushing out the bottom of your sleeves? Gosh when their website uses the word "Frakensteined" it has to mean business!

new carb is in. Purrs like a kitten

started on 1 pull. Ran great for 1/2 hr. Shut off and started 3 hrs later and it will not fire. Zip. Nada. Almost like it’s dead, took off carb and put old one on and it ran even worse. misfire. Pop. Backfire. Put new carb on and it will only start with throttle at idle. Runs so so at 1/2 throttle. Will struggle and kill at full throttle. What the heck? How can it go for perfect to crap in 3 hrs?

Good deal. Let it snow!

Update. Ran fine for 1/2 hr. ran better than ever. Shutoff. Would not restart 3 hrs later. I think it acted same as old carb did. Tried old carb again and it started but ran like crap. Put new carb back on. Will start and run ok at 1/2 throttle but not run well at full throttle? Wtf? Worked great for 1/2 hr but now it is struggling? What am I missing? Fuel?

found this pic that shows a similar carb and the pilot screw. my old carb had a plug instead of a pilot screw. or maybe the screw snapped off? my unit seems to run slightly rich as i can see blackish exhaust.

Pilot mixture screw was out 4 turns. I set it to 2 and it started on 1 st pull. I snapped off the plastic corner shroud so I can see screw. Maybe I can find another. Or let it be. So, the rich pilot setting had an influence on starting?

So the original carb screw is set w/ locktite and the head popped. If you look in the carb you have a central main nozzle and as you move forward to the engine you have a small transition circuit port and then the little port from the pilot screw. The two last ports are metered through that little plastic mixer on top. So, when these are plugged it can create a lean surge at high speed especially when not under load. But the main purpose is to control idle through low speeds as thee high speed nozzle can't be as finely regulated and is also why it is on thee inward end of the venturi. It would be doubtful that it created a non starting condition though. I would however look for signs of fuel dilution in the oil to be on the safe side.

thats all i did. turn it in 2 turns. started and ran great for 1hr. shut it off and restarted it 1hr later and it runs fine. so, it refused to start and now it runs? i might change oil today as it has been awhile.

found this on CL today. its a powersmart? not power more says it is 212cc while my motor is 208cc

has a good recoil. mine is broke. recoil costs about $25 online. this guy wants 95 for motor.

Hmmm. It may be a match or one of those things that leaves more questions than it answers. I do not see hardly any snow throwers where I live now. Powermore WPM and rider engines via the MTD pipeline and Toro's own engines on the same. Rarely do I need to source parts for anything other than these regarding these import OHVs. It does seem that a couple of the manufacturers names come up commonly and parts may fit. The most common thing I need is carburetion and while the description says it fits XYZ, you end up changing choke shafts, fuel lines or something to get to work. That being said, maybe offering 75$ or maybe even less it is worth having an extra engine to just slap on and go. It's March and it's a snow engine. Winter has to end sometime!