I have doubts about a handyman restoring a window property and safely. Is he going to weatherstrip them,?remove all the paint? Remove all the glazing , oil Prime and paint? Set up proper containments? How much are the storms? Not sure why he wouldnt do the sills?

Are the new windows bid full replacement or inserts, will the windows be painted ?

Both options Can be viable but it sounds like you would prefer new. I would get the total cost to do both methods complete first and nail down the details.

The Old windows don’t last 100 years with out upkeep, they were probably needed Rehabbing back in the sixties back when they put those metal storms on to stop the air from blowing through. most thino they lasted so long because of the old growth wood, but It was the air blowing through keeping them nice and dry.

The casement windows are inswing windows? What are they proposing to replace those with?

Thanks toddinmn. I think I can answer all of your questions. I have gotten lots of estimates. It's a little complicated, but here goes:

28 windows:

- 6 built in the 70s, these will 100% be replaced by new construction Marvin wood/aluminum. They are in a side playroom and back bathroom.

- 4 casement - no storms available. They are a bit of a double casement, but we can either restore them or replace

- 18 double hung - the "handyman" was the best way to describe this old man with a small crew. There are two different guys in the whole city of Columbus, OH who do this kind of work. Ironically, most of their work is in the suburbs with new construction wood windows, not the hearty "old wood" that I have. The handyman will remove the top/bottom window and board up the opening. He will sand/prime/paint and repair glazing. He is not willing to do the sills because of the lead paint, and my young kids. He has a Hepa vac at his shop for the windows.

Here are the costs:

Restore:

- about $250/window to restore casement and double hung

- about $381/window for new storms/coil trim on double hung

- my time to do the sills/side frames ????

Total = $12,500

Replace:

- about $1,200/window for new Marvin wood (wood inside/aluminum outside). They are inserts so we keep our old inside trim. New outside coils.

Total = $26,000

After extensive reading online, I was convinced to keep the old. However, since we have to replace the side playroom with new, I'm worried that we will like the new better. Here's our current plan: replace the 6 with new Marvin and live with them for a few months to help make the right decision.

Thanks for reading this!

IMO new windows are easier to care for require no storm windows and IMo a whole easier to clean. It might be worth a look at aluminum clad wood.Definately in the same style or very close to it.

Replace, but in similar style. Try to stay as true to the originals.

The new Marvins basically match the orginal except the grids are between the glass. They are wood inside/aluminum outside (their version of clad). They will actually look better than what we have because we have unpainted aluminum storms covering the original wood windows. Yes, they will be easier to care for, but everything I read says their life is so much shorter. But, not sure we'd be here more than 20 years.

Sounds like the restoration bid is replacing only bad parts of glazing, and repainting exterior side of sash only and not removing alll paint? Are they installing new weatherstripping? Removing an old window generates quite a bite of lead dust, they should Be following RRP rules regardless of the sill work. What are they doing with paint that remains in the jambs ? The Marvin’s are being stained or painted to match?

ehy can’t you get a storm for the old casements .

Not sure about the weather stripping. He is going to repaint the inside sash. And I understood that all paint would be removed. The jambs are actually stained. I'll include a photo. Marvins are painted to match. Not sure why no storms on casements, but I'll include a photo too.

Sorry it’s dark. We actually have sun today!

Also wondering how important it is to match. The two left windows on the first floor will be Marvin. They were built in the 70s. Perhaps the overruling decision is to go Marvin so all front windows will match.

Here’s a more recent pic with the new roof and landscape

The jambs and blindstops look painted in the photos. The Marvin windows will look different than rehabbed windows and may stick out espc in the front. You would convert the inswings to double hungs if replaced?

The Marvin’s will have noticeable loss of glass, how noticeable varies from owner to owner. You have seen the grids between the glass? You will love the ease of cleaning them but may regret the change lost.

storms for the casements should be available but you may have to with A stationary unit with removable screen and glass to keep the sitelines. Swing windows are notorious for leaking air anD you would want a storm and weatherstripping to reduce that and also to keep the outward appearance simila.

Thanks toddinmn. You are very knowledgeable. If you were me, what would you do? Thanks!!

64 windows?!? Wow! I'd love to see a photo of your house. :-)

I meant the part of the jamb you don’t see when the window is opened.

I am more inclined as I suspect you are toward replacement.

some of youre windows look pretty narrow and the loss of glass is most noticeable on those.

You are correct, that the initial cost of replacing the windows is more expensive. Yes, for aesthetics, you want the windows to match, particularly on the front of the house (you have a beautiful home by the way!) When you replace windows, it will be a better investment; they will last much longer and have the modern conveniences you are seeking. In addition, they will provide more insulation from the elements! Good Luck!

Thank you Attaway Homes. My research has shown that the insulating properties are the same on a properly restored window, and I am convinced that the "old wood" holds up better. My playroom windows from 1976 have a rotting sill and my 1932 windows are going strong despite the cosmetic problems. However, it finally came to me today, like you said, that the front of the house MUST match. To me, it's a side playroom, but to the front of the house, it would be visible. Thanks for weighing in! I appreciate it!

The math that some of those restortion guru‘s use is a little fuzzy. The u values are not correct. some of them use a nice interlocking weatherstripping that cuts down on air infiltration as well,that is why I asked if your handyman was using any. .

Good point. His quote doesn't mention it, but I would ask if we decide to go that route. Thanks so much for your advice!

I am all for keeping old windows. One thing that you didn’t mention as an option for the front so the windows match was using salvage windows that match your existing old windows In the front.

My mom and sister live in homes from 1760. The windows are still intact and just need periodic naintenance. Although I can’t say for sure the windows date from 1760, they are definitely old. If you feel confident that this man knows how to restore properly, then I would restore. Old house people like old windows too.

Also, you may have run across it already but this blog is super helpful. https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-restore-old-windows/

Even if your guy & team are avoiding the sills... please make sure they are following RRP rules for lead. We often see older homes having windows replaced and it’s not being done safely because it’s more expensive. Whether you remove or restore... RRP rules should be followed.

I, too have a 1920's Tudor we moved into 4 years ago. I knew moving in that every window needed work, which I was more than happy to tackle myself. I even considered taking a window restoration class in New England! Then I suffered a concussion in an auto accident and all that desire for renovation went out the, well, the WINDOW.

The exterior paint is all new as well as the stone sidewalk and enlarged front porch and front door. As far as windows, I started with the two (driveway side) that were not original to the house and purchased the highest grade possible and I love them and have not had any issues at all. They are both casement and very closely resemble what I have on the front of the house in the living room. Those two small 6-pane windows, cost and install, $2700 (windows were $900 each). This spring and summer, the next windows to get done will be the remaining three on the front of the house.

The front living room windows already have storms, so I took those on and did a fair job on them. - original frames and new glass only because three of the panes were broken, then I had a local restoration team take on the three casements in front and the two on the side of the living room.

The two on the sides didn't have storms, so my restorers made them for me. Total cost of the 5 windows and two storms was $8,200. I am so proud to show them off, they are simply beautiful.

I also purchased pull down screens for both front and side and they will be installed this spring.

My two cents and advice - save the old windows, find a restoration team near you and take care of the windows one or two at a time. Reach out to Scott at Craftsman blog, he may be able to assist you. https://thecraftsmanblog.com/

I love old houses. Your house is beautiful! So, you have a mix of windows (old and new). Which do you like better?

I’ll triple down on what Kate said about the lead. Not only does the act of removal require RRP rules be used, the window itself will still remain a lead hazard if the lead Paint is not removed or enclosed on all friction surfaces , including the. Jamb , the sill , parting stops , the head , the backside of the stool, the edges of the sashes that contact any of those parts as well as the other sash itself. Any other non friction surfaces should be intact . I have seen many contractors and homeowners poisen children trying to rehab or replace old windows. Windows remain the number 1 cause if lead poisoning. and is the reason why lead rules focus on them.

I am a fan of sash kits. In vintage houses such as these Due to the Glass loss being very minimal , the cost , and removal of Most of the lead components. Cost can vary quite a bit on these depending on manufacturer and installer.

I’d be curious as to what the proposed brand and model of storm windows were. In the bid , the quality and cost can vary much.

Thanks Todd. I can hear your concern. I think replacing is the best option.
FYI. The storms are Provia.

It sounds like the old guy with the small crew knows what he is doing. That he mentions the lead exposure is important. Maybe you can find a specialist crew with a big hepa filter to remove the lead paint the correct way while the old guy restores your windows. If you are in an historic district, there may be a committee you need to contact before you do anything, but the old guy will probably know the answer to that question. The window replacement people may also disturb the old lead paint, but they are just here to sell windows. If they didn’t mention lead, I lean toward the old guy.

Lead abatement is a much more complex process than a HEPA filter. There is no circumstance in which an abatement crew is removing the lead paint from a window while it is in the home. The only thing to do in that case is encapsulation. The only want the lead is removed from those older windows is once they have been completely removed from the opening and even in that case, you aren't removing the lead from the interior trim or the exterior wood.

I will admit I didn't read any of the comments. I replaced all my 1910 double hungs with Marvin double hungs (with the tilt feature) about 15 years ago and never looked back. The savings from double-paned windows has probably paid for them by now. Obviously, I voted to replace.

At this moment, the restore option is winning. I wonder how many of those voting to restore are living with 100-year-old windows.

My concern with the old man is that he wouldn’t do the sills because of the lead when what he is doing is all about disturbing the lead. He will be disturbing and removing lead components when he is there, then disturm it more off site and then disturb ut once again when he puts them back in. It sounds like he could think that taking them off site meansbthr RRP rules do not apply.

The installation of new windows would absolutely disturb the paint during removal and the capping of the exterior trim.

Abstrment of lead paint on windows can be done on or off site. I find it best to do the work on the sashes off site. Work on the frames , jambs , sill and trim are typicall done on site. Encapsulation is not permitted on friction surfaces for obvious reasons, and most of the components of a window are friction surfaces . Encapsulation is permitted by licensed personal only and I dont recommend it nor would I do it, enclosure , replacement or removal are better methods IMO. The interior side of a sash and interior trim are not as likely to contain lead based paint, the exterior side of the sash , jamb and exterior casing most always do . I would test any interior components to know for sure the others parts I would assume positive in this vintage of house.

My new windows are so effecient that they are now making my house payments!

I'd go for the new windows too. They will look beautiful, be more efficient, and you will have benefit of efficiency and screens.

groveraxle - my house was built in the 20's, so just under 100 yrs old. You need someone who specializes in restoration. My team took every precaution that was necessary. You have to see them close up to be able to appreciate the attention to detail. The only reason I didn't restore the two small casements on the stairs is because they weren't original windows.

If I were going to replace the windows I would not have grilles inside the glass since that will make it obvious they are replacement windows. I would use the grilles that mimic a true divided light. I had a Tudor where we did replace some casements with Pella architect series since they were so few workmen who really knew what they were doing restoring old windows. I was happy with the replacements. IWhere the windows were leaded glass I kept them and accepted that they were not in prime condition.

I would buy new windows. I live in Minnesota, and have Marvin wood, laminated with white aluminum on the outside, low-E glass. They are 10 years old - and are as good as the day they were installed. They tilt in, and are easy to clean. No need for storm windows - the screens are light, and quite easily removable.

I finished the interior wood. Did several windows at a time, used acrylic polyurethane, three coats.

There are pros and cons to both restoring and replacing, but IMO the energy efficiency of new windows beats all the cons (especially in an age of global warming). I can't say enough good about Marvin windows; their attention to detail and customer service were top notch.

Previously I said I replaced all my windows, but I actually replaced all but three. The three original leaded glass windows are still there and as leaky as ever. But the new windows look exactly like the old ones, except with double panes.