I'd reduction cut the branch on the right side back to the lower, smaller side branch. Then remove it completely in a year or two because the branch angle is so tight to the trunk.

https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/stem-reduction.shtml

Then tie a 4' piece of strong, 3/8" (or 1/2") diameter bamboo to the trunk halfway up and pull the left side over straight. You can buy green plant tie ribbon that is strong but also has some give to stretch as the tree trunk grows. Probably would have to have the bamboo on no more than a year at best. Maybe less. You may have to wait until the tree begins to leaf out to straighten it. If you force it now, the tree may snap where you try to bend it up. When the leaves are out and the sap is flowing, the trunk will be more pliable, more "bendy."

Looks like there are buds lower down on the left fork that could be used as a new leader once they grow out, the plant needs to grow more. I would do as mn says for the right branch then wait for more growth.

I see that you have it tied together, that distorts what needs to be done, the main idea is that the structure of the tree must be strong enough to handle the weight of the fruit when it does start producing. It is important that the main stem is much larger then the main branches. The main branches should be pruned back a bit to encourage heavier structure, prune back to a bud facing the direction that you want it to grow. If there are deer in the area be careful how much you prune because they may come along and prune more, LOL.

pruning for fruit production is wildly different than normal ... usually the middle is open.. so sun can hit more fruit on the inside ...

they are also kept shorter.. just to ease picking and ladder use ..

do you know the actual name of the tree.. is it dwarf in any sense ...

if there are any local orchard ... take a walk around one.. to see how fruit trees are pruned.. even better if they have cherry ...

since an open middle is usually a plus.. you should have never tied the two leaders together ... remove that ...

also.. it looks like you have a shipping stake.. still banded to the tree .. get rid of that ... some stability is good the year of planting ... but 3 years down the line.. trees are supposed to blow in the wind ... besides the fact that the stake is not big enough to accomplish anything anyway ...

all that said.. in tree time.. this thing is still a babe ... and im not sure anything is really needed at this point ... other than thumbing off any buds that might break.. on the trunk itself ... there really isnt much of a hurry when dealing with trees ...

now.. you will be a better man than me.. if you ever figure out how to stop the birds from attacking almost ripe fruit ... before they are pickable ... good luck with that ...

ken

ps: the black cherry at my local upick orchard are very old trees.. and probably 60 to 80 feet tall ... i had to leave.. when i saw peeps with huge ladders in the back of their pickup trucks ... i just couldnt watch .. lol ..actually what i couldnt believe.. is that their ins co let them invite peeps for this darwin award event. .. lol ...

Thanks, all. I should have mentioned that, yes, this is a dwarf. Dwarf Red Lapins,

Also, the tie between the two branches was there when I got it. I just never removed it, and probably should have.

Ken - I've never heard of the "open middle for better fruit production" concept when it comes to fruit trees. But I also don't have an orchard or grow that many fruit trees. There is very little demand for them in commercial landscaping. I can tell you one thing though. I could never sell a fruit or ornamental tree that didn't have a straight central trunk up to 5 or 6 feet high. Anything missing a central leader has to be discounted for sale.