You will need to check electrical code for your area. But it will be very inconvenient to not have electrical for that distance.

Thanks so much, Sandra, for your reply. It is a corner, so that actual front side of the counter is only about 4 feet. We have studied the area well, considering where all of our appliances and appliances using activities will occur. We just do not need outlets in this area. I wonder if anyone has found a way around having to install outlets in the countertop.

What @GreenDesigns said. I've used pop-up outlets for situations like this in the past, but their acceptability regarding meeting the code will vary by building department and sometimes by inspector. Pop-up outlets will, however, require drilling into the counter top.

The code is what the inspector says it is on the day he says it. Ask him and hope he doesn't change his mind at final inspection.

We went through this We were reading the code and thought we were okay without them, GC disagreed. When we asked the inspector he agreed with us, but it could have gone the other way. Are there any cabinets in that area, maybe beside the windows? I have several under-cabinet outlets in my kitchen over a long uninterrupted counter because I didn’t want them in the backsplash there.

Thank you to all for your suggestions. For Hallett & Co. and Green Designs, do you worry about the integrity of the window frame/sill? My builder is against this. We have talked to our inspectors. One said we didn't need outlets in this area. The other one said we did. It looks like others have had this same experience. Go figure! Thanks again to all.

You might be able to mount a plug mold strip onto the surface of your window frame. That probably looks less annoying than installing a big junction box into the frame.

If you are really lucky, you can cut out a channel in the window frame and stick the plug mold in there. That would look even cleaner. Your contractor would be able to advise whether this is doable. There are several manufacturers that make plug molds. Some designs are really shallow. It can be tricky to install the supply wires on the really shallow models, but a good electrician should be able to figure it out.

It might make sense to raise the window opening just a few inches, if you have that option.

I don't know what code says about how high you have to raise the outlets above the countertop in order to not need any waterproofing on them, though. So, that's something you'd have to check before going this route.

I do know that there are constraints on the maximum height thought. We have undercabinet plugmolds and we had to carefully watch that we wouldn't mount the upper cabinets too high above the countertops.

M- I will definitely look into the plug mold strip. That might be an answer. I wish our architect has mentioned this to us when we were designing the house, but the windows are in so there is no moving things now. I will be talking to the inspector in the morning so wish me luck.

We were able to pass inspection without all the "required" outlets. There are certain situations where its just about impossible to literally comply and most building inspectors understand this. And to complicate things further the circuits need GFIs so not sure plugstrips and pop-ups will work.

following

Following. It looks like I may have this same issue. Sara, where are you located?

Some inspectors might overlook, but your plans showed_____?

And to complicate things further the circuits need GFIs so not sure plugstrips and pop-ups will work.

That's an easy problem to solve. They do make plug-molds with integrated GFCIs. But more commonly, you'd just install a GFCI breaker. In many situations, that's much simpler and does exactly the same job. Building codes allow either option.

We have upgraded most of our circuits to either GFCI, AFCI, or in some cases combination AFCI/GFCI. There are a few older circuits where we weren't able to upgrade the safety of the circuit. But that's usually because somebody played fast and loose when deciding where to pull the neutral of the circuit from. In the past, mixing up neutrals was fine; these days, that doesn't work well.

We had same problem. Inspector insisted on outlets within 24" of sink. I made a long plywood box the width of the window, installed two outlets in the face and fed power to them from outlets in the wall adjacent to the window. After I got final electrical inspection, I pulled the box and the wiring out. I did have to wait to trim the window out until I had finished removal. I have a photo somewhere.

Yes, this happens all the time. The inspectors know that this is what happens, but they still make you jump through the hoops. It's all a little silly.

On the other hand, having outlets under the window sounds like a good idea in Sara's case. So, if there is a visually-pleasing non-intrusive way to achieve this goal, then that's what I would shoot for. Over many years of home-ownership, I learned that you can never have too many outlets. That's why all of our wall outlets these days are quads instead of just a single duplex. It avoids having to have powerstrips all over the house.

riverrat1, we are in northwest washington, under Washington L&I.

Jeffrey Grenz, our plans show no outlets and don't get reviewed by L&I. I wish that was the case as they may have guided us to lift our windows 4 inches.

M, luckily all of our kitchen and bathroom breakers are AFCI and GFCI. It is an excellent idea to put quads in instead of duplex outlets.

Still hoping to talk to inspector. Will update then. Thanks to all of you for your input. What a cool thing it is to have this venue. Thanks Houzz.