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help with old unfinished pine furniture

7 years ago

I just bought a piece of furniture that’s apparently pine. It seems quite old (~100 years?) and is in great structural shape but needs cosmetic help.

It’s dusty and grimy and needs a clean and from what I can tell there is no existing top coat on it.

How do I clean it properly and safely? Once clean and dry, can I just do a top coat to seal it or does it need to be moisturized or something?

It’s going to live at a seasonal cottage where it will be exposed to lots of humid summers and then freezing dry winters so I assume it needs some protective help to survive.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Comments (15)

  • 7 years ago

    This does not look antique to me at all. I would just wipe it down with a damp cloth.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Wipe it down with a light soapy mixture but don't get it too wet. Once its clean, get a 50/50 mix of Orange Shellac (mix it up fresh from flakes) and apply two coats to it. It will look fantastic. Shellac is not water resistant so don't let rainwater hit it from an open window or it will spot. Don't use canned shellac from the hardware or paint store, it's not very good. This is all you need long with a can of denatured alcohol - mix half and half, Use a cheap foam brush to apply.


    https://www.amazon.com/Dewaxed-Orange-Shellac-Flakes-16/dp/B010L4MD5E


    This is an old school finish that will make the piece really pop.

  • PRO
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I, too, don't think it's anywhere near 100 years old. But to answer your question: http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/save_finish.shtml


    Wood is hygroscopic -- meaning it will absorb and desorb moisture to reach equilibrium moisture content with its environment. Products that say "Feeds the wood", "Moisturizes and nourishes," etc. are just a bunch of hookum. Finishes can slow it down but don't eliminate.

  • 7 years ago

    The age of the piece doesn’t really matter. I’m looking for help on cleaning it and protecting it moving forward. Given the dry and rough surface, I don’t think a damp cloth will be sufficient to clean off the dust and grime. I think lint from any cloth will just get snagged and leave behind more of a mess.

  • 7 years ago

    Thank you byhammer. That’s quite a lot of information in the link.

    In terms of the “moisturizing” idea, are you saying that I’m better to clean and/or remove old finish if there is one and then just add a new finish - basically skip any products sold as moisturizing?

    I love the colour as-is and I’ve had good success with Minwax antique oil before. I was thinking of just applying that because I like the low lustre sheen.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    I would try using a dry, clean paint brush to dust the surface. On the smoother parts, use Milsek Polish & Cleaner. I get it on line. A little bit goes a long way. It cleans and protects but doesn’t have any wax or silicones. Great stuff. My craftsman furniture repair person put me on to this many moves ago and it is fabulous.

  • 7 years ago

    If it’s too rough to wipe down, I would sand it and apply a finish or paint it. That may be more work than you want to do on it though.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Some good info on Oil-Varnish finishes like Minwax Antique Oil https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use/


    I'm not familiar with Milsek, but the SDS gives no useful information https://www.milsek.com/sds/ and hides behind that favorite "trade secret" https://www.milsek.com/wp-content/uploads/Milsek-Furniture-Polish-Multi-Purpose-Cleaner_SDS.pdf

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Byhammerandhand. I have used the Milsek product for over 20 years with no issues at all. Your implications are unclear. What is your point?

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    My only point is it is hard to tell what exactly is the Milsek product if they only say "it contains (paint thinner) in trade secret percentages." So provides no information to the consumer, but a paint chemist can probably find out in less than a day's work. This is all too common in finishing and polishing products -- you can never know or even rely on what the label implies.


    And, yes, Klem1, silicone (an ingredient in Pledge) while it looks shiny for a while is a real problem if you ever need to refinish or even apply a top coat or touch up. It causes fish eye like crazy. Products that claim "orange oil" or "lemon oil" may contain small amounts of d-Limonene, an extract of the rinds that do behave somewhat like petroleum distillates chemically. But that's largely just the icing on what is a petroleum distillate product (mineral oil and lighter hydrocarbons). To largely appease the people that say, "It has no chemicals" (P.S. a chemical is anything that has mass and occupies space. ) Just venting on a few of my pet peeves.


    But I think Klem1 and I are mostly on the same train.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    On front label of Milsek it specifically states no wax or silicones. It conditions without leaving any residue and dies cloud up finishes. It removed mold that had built up on an antique desk I had to store when building a new house. It took it off without leaving or removing natural finish. Great product.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    *it does not leave *.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    I have used Guardsman Furniture Polish for a long time. Milsek sounds similar, but no way of knowing


    Disclaimer: I was a Guardsman FurniturePro franchisee for some years and have done work for them for many years. I get nothing out of endorsing their product.

  • 7 years ago

    Flo Mangan "On front label of Milsek it specifically states no wax or silicones."

    Does it specifically state for unfinished furniture on front label? I've never heard of Milsek but it doesn't sound like it replaces lacquer,varnish,oil,paint and other finishing products.