Engineered Hardwood Installation - Float vs Glue or Nail

7 years ago

We have purchased the following engineered hardwood to install throughout our main level (entry, kitchen, dining, living, hallways) https://www.builddirect.com/p/Jasper-Engineered-Hardwood-Myth-Birch-Collection--15053798. My husband originally asked for glue/nail installation because he hates the give/bounce you sometimes get on floating floors when it does not feel solid. The installer said the subfloors are in good shape and very level.

We have two different subfloors we are going over, one is a concrete bed which used to hold tile in the entryway, the rest is plywood. Installer is recommending floating because he doesn't like the idea of gluing to the concrete and nailing to the plywood. It's certainly cheaper, so we're entertaining it.

Does anyone have any experience with floating engineered hardwood and how solid it feels?

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Comments (4)

PRO
Oak & Broad
7 years ago
Glue and nail is preferred by most of the installers we work with. Fewer call backs would be likely reason for that. Follow your manufacturers installation instructions very closely if you float the floors.
Kelsey R thanked Oak & Broad
PRO
Johnson Flooring Co Inc
7 years ago
I personally don't like the tapping sound a floating floor makes when you walk on it with hard sole shoes, but I do have some in two small bedrooms. It's been fine since about 1992. If your floors are flat and level you won't have a lot of bouncing or give. I would probably opt for gluing over the concrete and a small portion of the adjacent wood, then stapling/nailing the rest.
Kelsey R thanked Johnson Flooring Co Inc
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PRO
G & S Floor Service
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
I would glue everything on both substrates. I am not a fan of changing installation method. Start and finish with one throughout. Everything is consistent and easy to trouble shoot in the future.
Kelsey R thanked G & S Floor Service
SJ McCarthy
7 years ago
Before you glue to the concrete, I would like to know a few things:

1. Is the slab on, above or at grade (on the ground, above the ground or below the ground)?

2. How old is the house/slab? Old homes have issues with moisture (moisture barriers were not consistently used until the late 1980's - mid 1990's (depending on where you live).

As someone who is overly cautious with hardwoods and concrete slabs, I like to be QUADRUPLE sure that a glue down is an option. And even then I would consider floating if I am not 100% sure of moisture readings.

As an aside, I've read the technical specifications of this floor. I would say they are underwhelming at best. This is a 9.5mm engineered hardwood with 1.2mm wear layer. It is 5" wide (which could indicate 'glue assist' would be a good idea).

This floor consists of short lengths. The longest plank will be LESS THAN 48" (states 47" as the longest plank) with an average plank length of 29.5" (less than 3ft).

At $2.25/sf, it will cost more to install the product than the product is worth. I hope your installer is aware of all these shorts. Shorts make for a LONG install. And the longer it takes to install the product, the higher the price you pay the installer.

I wish you luck. I really hope the 1.2mm wear layer stays attached to the 9.5mm thick plank. To do that, you will need EXCEPTIONAL humidity control. As in you need a super-duper high-end HVAC system that can have humidity added/removed with the touch of a button.
Kelsey R thanked SJ McCarthy