Sorry to agree, but -- yes -- it's too busy. Every piece is trying to be "the star". Too many colors, too many pieces competing.

Is it possible to remove the gray/white seat and "edges"? If they could be something very simple /white the whole thing would "calm down" significantly. I also think it'd be the cheapest /easiest element to remove.

As for the vanity countertop, simple and white. Something to tie into the simple Subways. If you're doing a backsplash, make it those same Subways -- so as to avoid introducing yet another element.

Make the mirror super simple: I'd say one large-scale mirror /avoid excessive hardware and lines.

No, I don't see paint fixing the problem of "too much /too many".

I think the bench and those sides are too gray. I would do something white like your tile.

Question for pros: can the edges and bench top be removed without compromising the waterproofing?

While I do think that a less-busy stone might have been a good idea, I would not remove what you have. I would leave it and learn to like it (it’s a nice stone!). White for the vanity top.

There’s another thing you could do. Would you consider changing the floor to a calmer porcelain tile instead of the stripey wood-look? Then you could leave the stone edges. You could pick something that has a light color from the stone. Then do a white vanity top.

Have to agree that the stone choice is too cool a gray for those beige-y tiles and wood-look tile on the floors, as well as the accent tile. I would go with a solid white quartz in a tone that matches your cabinetry/subway tile for both the vanity and the wall caps on the shower. Presumably, the fabricator who did the slab work can remove this without causing damage to the substrate. Too much going on here; edit your choices.

I forgot to mention that your tiler is awesome.

I was going to mention that the penny tile looks good. It is hard to install.

Thats a good sign that you have a good tile pro. Ask him if the gray edge pieces and bench top can be removed without messing up the waterproofing. Then whatever you choose for the vanity top can also be used on the edges and bench.

I think once the gray edges are replaced the tan penny tile will look good because there’s some tan in your vertical accent strip.

Looks like fantasy brown.. I think you may be putting your nose too close... when you look close up things are off, don't quite match , look too busy etc. But I think the picture from further back looks great - there 's contrast , patterns, personality.. But I am usually the odd one out - i love patterns and contrast and a lot going on in a space..

I would do a nice white top on the vanity or with a soft vein to it ( or the reverse a grayer top with a white vein ).

Also, please make sure you can get you hand alongside that vanity for cleaning - it looks very close to the half wall of the shower

Good luck!

Not the best choice, but I don't think it will be that noticeable once you have the glass in. Your eye goes to the accent tile on the back wall. For the countertop I would use white quartz, or a light beige quartz that coordinates with the floor. You can paint the room a soft white, light beige, or very light blue/green, but wait until you have your countertop installed to decide.

I hope you are planning on using Starphire glass (low iron) on your shower doors or it is all going to have a green tint anyway, and further affect the colors.

I’m pretty sure none of it can be removed without having to re-do everything. But no worries, it looks fine. Go with a solid color counter, no backsplash except a 4” piece of the counter.

I think it looks fabulous. I would suggest a white quartz countertop as you don’t need anymore patterns. Warm white walls will compliment the space. Good job so far.

Is there any advantage to having him re-do it now, vs later? If not, maybe see how you feel in 6 months? BTW, I like your subway tile. Is it hand molded? What's the brand?

Leave it and keep calm elsewhere in the room. Teh paint should probably be a pure neutral.

Not a fan of the three competing tile/materials but if you're stuck with them, at least go with a solid color -- white or light gray -- for your countertop.

Thank you all for the advice. My tile installer said he could remove those pieces! So, am now in the market for something to replace them and have the same for the vanity top! Some have suggested white - which I’ve only seen in quartz I believe - looks rather inexpensive to me. Do not want to introduce any other color, especially grey, I’ve learned my lesson! (And yes, for those that commented, my tiler is amazing and a perfectionist).

@levyspace, I don't know if it's too late to do this, but I might skip the slabs on the wall/curb caps and finish them out with the same subway tile, instead. You'll probably need bullnose pieces for the edges which shouldn't be too difficult. Then just get stone/quartz for your vanity top and shower bench. I know that some slab manufacturers--like Caesarstone, for example--make half slabs. Check with your fabricator to see if you can get away with this given the length of your vanity--will save you some $ in materials cost.

It does not look bad, just busier than you imagined. You have not selected a counter yet? At this point the best one to select is the same stone as the other fabrication pieces; it will blend best and not add another element to the space.

Onyx would be an easy fix, has the stone look, is cheaper and even more aesthetic

Looking at it all you need a solid color for the shower seals, seat, and counter so the mosaic tile and the exterior floor tile work off one another.

It's a pity to remove the beautiful stone but easier to deal with then removing the shower floor.

Do you have a porch or patio where you can reuse the stone as bench seats and table top?