One driveway done.

OK, lets look at the glass wall and assume that it is ripped out and replaced with a conventional wall, except that there are two windows, one on each side of the cooktop. All cooktop installation requirements w.r.t. flammable materials must be met. Code enforcement should look at the plan to ensure approval will be assured.

Let the cooktop length be X inches (commonly 30 or 36 inches for induction cooktops). The distance across the front of the hood should be X + 6 inches, at a minimum. This is the capture length.

The hood should extend to at least 3 inches beyond the front edge of the largest front hob. Typically, 24 inches of hood front-to-back distance is enough for a wall hood, but if the lamp/control mounting surface at the front is particularly large, I would go deeper. This also depends on cooking style and whether limiting greasy and/or odoriferous cooking to the back hobs is acceptable. We can call this the capture width.

Between the entry to the capture aperture and the baffles is the capture volume. Some is better than none.

If, for example, the entry aperture base (bottom of hood) is set at 34 inches above the cooktop (use your own values), and the cooktop is at 36 inches off the floor, then the aperture base is at 34 + 36 = 70 inches. This leaves 9 inches for a baffle volume, baffles, and containment volume to connect to a duct (or two ducts; see later comment). This is pretty tight unless the duct exits from the top and thence climbs up the sloped ceiling until it gets to some point where it takes a turn to vertical and exits to the roof. This would call for a roof blower, and a custom sheet metal piece to cover the duct, if wanted.

Another option would be to accept no capture volume and go out the wall with a duct just above the baffles and below the ceiling line. A pair of 6-inch ducts with separate blowers outside might provide sufficient flow rate (see below). [Or three; given no data on selected hood size]

For better performance, plagiarizing a more commercial style might work. In this concept we borrow from the commercial "proximity" or "backshelf' hood. This type of hood uses a slanted capture aperture -- the hood base is higher at the cook's side and lower at the wall side. The baffle frames are near the back and are angled forward at the top with the lower edge close to the wall. The front edge could be set at 34 or so inches above the cooktop. Some limitation to the height of pans on back hobs would result.

While usually ducted through the top, ducting out the back behind the baffles should work. The blower assembly and integrated cap are mounted to the wall outside. Modernaire could build such a hood, among others.

Achievable flow rate should not be less than 90 CFM per square foot of hood capture entry area. This requires a blower rated for more, and the amount more depends on the blower fan curve, the pressure loss vs. flow rate of the baffles, and the pressure loss of the make-up air (MUA) system. For nominal conditions, a factor of 1.5 multiplying the product of 90 CFM/sq.ft. and the hood entry area (sq. ft.) may be used to select a blower by its zero static pressure rating.

For MUA information, start with threads here addressing the topic. For general perspective on the entire topic of kitchen ventilation, review the first dozen pages, more or less, of the Greenheck Guide, presently available from this site:

https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf

And keep in mind that the characteristics: performance, aesthetics, and modest cost generally fit the maxim that one can have only two (at best).