Some information is here: https://docs.legis.wisconsin.gov/code/admin_code/sps/safety_and_buildings_and_environment/320_325/323/II/02

My quick reading suggests to me that partial deliberate MUA is needed for all exhaust ventilation. The other aspect is whether one's municipal code enforcement has adopted the International Residential Code.

It is always best to talk to one's Code Enforcement Officer to preclude expensive post-construction revisions. Compliance to code can also be a legal defense.

You need to know the code in your area . BTW a 300CFM hood is barely adequate for much venting . It depends on the size of your range or cooktop and that # of CFM is given in your user manual .

Well that link was confusing, since it doesn't mention any specific cfm output--only balanced air.

OP, if you do find that your safety code is in line with the <400cfm rule, Broan makes a decent 390cfm insert. It works fine over my smooth-top electric range, but it does have the mesh filter, which needs to be removed and cleaned regularly (probably more often than I clean it).

You need a whole home heated fresh air supply for the house. That’s energy codes. That’s not the same as specific make up for a range hood.

A300CFM hood will work only for a standard radiant electric range or low end builder grade gas range. As long as that is all you’re cooking with, a separate makeup from the fresh air it intake isn’t required. If you’re cooking with something more professional grade, or do spicier or greasier cooking, 300CFM will be wholly inadequate.

I’m sorry I know very little. my builder told me I need make up air which is pretty costly but I find it weird since I’m going to install this rangehood and use regilat glass top range . They say 300 CFM is over standard 290 CFM and I can not find any regulation regarding that.

Nationally, the MUA number is 400 CFM. Specific local codes, because of climate, and tighter homes, are allowed to be stricter, but not more lenient. Cold areas have tighter homes, and in many locations, it’s 300 CFM, that is the threshold, rather than 400 CFM.

Here’s the worksheet to determine how much of a fresh air replacement/makeup air system is required.

https://dsps.wi.gov/Documents/Programs/UDC/WorksheetOptionalMakeupCombustionAir.pdf

Here is another link which assumes too little for a kitchen hood

https://dsps.wi.gov/Documents/Programs/UDC/WorksheetOptionalMakeupCombustionAir.pdf

Commentary on Minnesota's code

https://structuretech1.com/how-to-determine-if-makeup-air-is-required/

A comment from Broan's web site:

*The International Residential Code Section M1503.4 and the International Mechanical Code Section 505.2 require Make-Up air for all domestic range hoods in excess of 400 cfm. States such as California, Wisconsin, and Minnesota have different requirements, as does ASHRAE 62.2. Always check with your jurisdiction for specific Make-Up air requirements and code amendments that are applicable in your area.

The above statement is on this template page, which may be used to find WI's requirements vis-a-vis Broan's MUA hardware.

http://tools.broan.com/muatemplate.aspx

The rest is left as an exercise for the student. :)

States such as California … have different requirements,

That would explain why my contractor was so adamant that I won't need MUA in our house. From a practical point of view, I tend to agree with him, given the rest of the details in our house and the fact that we live in a very temperate climate and always have several windows open throughout the year. But now I know why we could get away with this decision without having the inspector complaining about it -- they usually do complain a lot...