IMO if you are not sure get a structural engineer to check it out. My best guess is a wall between a room and a closet probaly not load bearing but anything else needs to be checked

Didn't know if they made 3x3 LVL beams, only posts in that size. LVL beams I believe start at 5 1/2" deep.

That said, not sure what you doing there, but this type of work requires permits and approved drawings, the reason for that so you don't wake up with roof on top of you.

In addition, structural tips on " if it was done right or not" its not a question for this or any other forum...

One thing I can tell you since you already removed the wall and I don't know what you been reading, the load which includes Dead, Live load, etc that is being placed on any beam needs to be calculated so the right beam size can be determined.

You also have to understand the difference between a uniformly distributed load and point load... The uniformly distributed load is when the load is distributed over the entire surface (in your case that was the wall and a point load is when weight is distributed onto 2 points at each end is what you have now... Therefore when you removed that wall, you split the load between 2 bearing points and these 2 points must transfer that load down you the footing, etc so they have continued support.

So I hope you calculated everything right and used the right size beam, etc and you will not have a failure down the road.

Good luck

If this is your first floor on a one story house, the "joists" you see on top of the wall may just be rafter ties. If they are rafter ties, they just keep the roof from spreading out, and are only strong enough to support the ceiling. https://inspectapedia.com/structure/Rafter-tie-locations-118-DJFs.jpg However, you still don't want them to sag, and definitely don't want them to allow movement outward.

Confusion over the function and strength of rafter ties vs. floor joists is what causes trouble when someone decides to convert an attic to living space.

Bruce

Thank you all!