Is this a passive (no blower) or an active (blower) MUA?

Do you have any combustion appliances that take air from inside any part of the house connected to the kitchen?

If not, then the pressure loss in the MUA from using a decent air filter will not matter, safety wise.

Please better explain the path the MUA would take from outside to kitchen with option 1. I would like to be sure that I understand the concept.

Also, do you need to heat the MUA? (See chart.) Dumping MUA into a basement or laundry room provides a means for having a heating system (e.g., hydronic or electric Dayton wall unit) in the room with its own thermostat, eliminating a complexity in the MUA system.

In either option, MUA entering the kitchen must not cause excessive turbulence or cross drafts in the area between cooktop and hood entry aperture.

Commercial MUA dumped at the floor seems to work OK with commercial style cooking devices (which are mop-spaced off of the floor). However, some home ranges prohibit air entry below the unit. This needs to be checked. Else, air from either source may have to be passed into more remote (from the cooktop) registers/diffusers and allowed to spread out into the kitchen volume.

Option 2 needs to be considered from a dust into the kitchen concern point of view. In any case, the air intake outside should be higher than ground level, with the duct going down to the level where it would enter the basement.

I really appreciate your thoughtful reply. There's some great info in there to consider. To answer your question, our HVAC, water heater and fireplace all run on gas from the local electric gas company.

I'm a horrible artist but I've drawn out what I'm going for in option 1. It's not 3D so what i couldn't show is that maybe 8' away from the exhaust pipe, i'd have the MUA kit bringing in untreated, unfiltered air. The idea would be that when the hood is running it would suck the incoming air right back up via those 10" registers toward the bottom of the wall behind the range.

I've just discovered i MAY be able to tap into a return in my basement to send external air into there. In that case, I would do that ducted. Is that an option too?

Your drawing seems to be of the hood exhaust and not the MUA scheme.

I asked several questions, as I recall.

Your water heater, and probably your furnace, if efficient via low temperature exhaust, will be easily back-drafted if not supplied with their own MUA. Do they have one or not? If not, you will need a MUA system that is either active that balances pressure, or is low pressure loss. Or maybe these two appliances are in their own room which is not connected to the kitchen. House pressure (at least at the furnace and/or hot water heater needs to be kept within 0.03 inches, w.c. relative to the outside. This is a rather low pressure difference. A filter may cause that much pressure loss, but it will keep out bugs, sparrows, etc.

Whether your HVAC system can operate with [an unspecified volumetric flow rate hood] MUA feed needs to be determined by your HVAC dealer.

Start with the hood: What is the blower's rated flow rate and what is the hood filter type?