I definately see issues withnthe actual layout it seems it went from 50/ 50 to 70/ 30 and back again. Those tile do not do well in a 50/50 layout as they need to be 70/ 30 to avoid lippage, Those 2 silly niches created no end of issues . I would be curious to know what was done for waterproofing too. I don’t know for sure but how much space do you have behind the tub? Grout is not what needs to be put between the floor and the wall and why were the tiles not put claser to the floor when being layed.

ok, so i see a few things.

first, they used a caulk in the joint on all the plane changes, yes? no grout?

They were very sloppy in their application.

I see this as being a problem w/standing water. looks like a divot. water will sit there after each shower and eventually discolor?

get a level and put it on the floor along this area where I have the arrows. take another pic

is the floor real marble or faux?

I have to ask, why was a dark trim piece used? why not silver?

anyway, the tile is supposed to sit flush w/the trim piece. it looks like this is sitting 'proud' of the trim. is it? (or is it the photo) and of course chipped tile should never be accepted here. this is poor workmanship or a dull saw blade. and yes, that goes for all of the other chipped areas you've point out.

personally I would have picked a much lighter gray grout.

do you have any pictures of how they did the waterproofing?

Hi Beth H - they haven't caulked yet - we aren't done yet. You are right with the divot, I also noticed that. The floor is faux marble I believe. The dark trim piece - that was my request. it's used all over the bathroom as I wanted all black accents. The grout is much lighter - even the gray in the tile is much lighter. I'm actually happy with that part. Waterproofing...I can post photos. I feel pretty confident the waterproofing was done accurately. Sounds like I need to fight back on the chipped tiles. Not sure what to do about the floor and the plane changes

the chipping is poor but wouldn't have shown as much with matching grout. The layout is whack- sides at 70/30, back wall of shower 50/50, and the wall behind the tub they don't align at all...

Hallett,,,good catch

see how the shower tiles are off-set by 1/3rd? and the tile layout over tub is kind of 1/2? you can see it's not quite at 1/2 and not quite 1/3. measure the off set on this and compare it to the shower.

(as per manufacturer specs, any tile longer than 1/2 should normally be laid in 1/3 layouts because of bowing or lippage)

i just noticed this too. what's w/the funky layout on the face of this pony wall? look at the partial tiles. normally when you continue a pattern, it should relate to the one that is visible. a door will be going across the other side so you won't even see that pattern. but you can see the bathtub side pattern. . What you have now is 3/4 of one tile and 1/4 cut of another, placed along side a full length tile. Looks stupid.

He should have used full tiles all the way down. Poor tile layout all around from this tile guy

I asked about caulking. you say this isn't caulked? between floor and wall tile ?

it looks like caulking.

Then he used grout in all of these floor joints and vertical corner joints? That's a big fat NO No grout between floor/wall, or the vertical corners. should all be 100% silicone caulk (they have matching colors)

Agree with Beth and others. Not good. At all. Layout, change of planes (that looks like grout at floor to walls), floor leveling with proper slope to drain (stick a straight edge at walls to floor in perimeter all the way around), chipped tiles... What were the installers credentials?

I still want to see the in process photos showing the waterproofing as i don’t see any here. I do see some green board?

As Hallett & Co. alluded to, when the finished topical work looks bad, it is a very very good bet the substrate and waterproofing is not better.

Did the glass tile wall turn out ok?

Here we go. If this isn't waterproofed I'm literally going to have a panic attack. Someone give me good news!

"Someone give me good news!"

No good news here Jenna Y.. Drywall is not an approved substrate in a shower period. Drywall manufacturers say unequivocally not allowed. SOME surface membranes say they are ok over drywall, but regular drywall definitely not moisture resistant drywall. And with the drywall manufacturers says absolutely not I would never use it period. You have as pictured ZERO waterproofing currently. So you are looking at a 100% start over. This time with someone who knows what they hell they are doing.

Millworkman - this is Durarock Board with aqua defense. Is that not acceptable?

Cement board, taped and thinset at the joints. Redguard or AquaDefense over that. Or a system like Kerdi or similar membrane sheet over the cement board. Their are companies also that make a waterproof board system that can also be used.

And obviously one TCNA approved contractor to do the whole magilla so you have one complete warranty. Let him purchase ALL the materials. You select the tile and the grout color. What you there now is all toast.

Ah, you updated a post @Jenna Y. and now my two previous posts look out of place but that's ok. It is if applied properly installed. It does not look like Durock to me however. The screws are not taped and thinset over. The seams do not appear to be taped and thinset applied over the tape. Screw pattern does not appear to be to manufacturers specs. Whats up with the plywood at the pan? How was the pan built (no wood I hope)? Was the pan flood tested?

Jenna do you have photos from just before or during tile install?

I do not have other photos. The floor was a rubber membrane then cement (I think) on top of that...then tile.

Done improperly obviously though since you have that dip. Hopefully that plywood was removed. Was it flood tested and tested for drainage before the tile was installed on the pan?

There appears to be 4 different offsets in that layout. Never say you've seen it all. Possibly a side affect of legalizing marijuana:)

this is Durarock Board with aqua defense. Is that not acceptable?

Jenna, This is Durrock (properly taped at the seams and mortared)

and this shows what the aqua defense looks like over the durarock.

Please show me in your picture where they used durock (cement board) and where they coated it w/the AquaDefense?

If they said this is durarock/aqua defense, they are flat out lying to you.

did they tile on top of this? just like it's shown here, did they tile on it? If so, it's grounds for a redo.

What you posted showing just the green board is not ok for a shower.

WE haven't even addressed the shower pan/floor. what did they do for that? and the curb? how was that done?

was any of this stuff used?

as for plain old cement board, yes, all seams should be taped, proper screw placement, etc. If there is a vapor barrier behind the cement board, no paint on waterproofing membrane (like Redgard) is needed.

If there is no vapor barrier behind it, then it should be waterproofed on the surface. make sense?

I don't see any barrier behind it (basically tar paper or plastic sheeting)

so lets hope they used a waterproof membrane on top

IF no vapor barrier behind the wall, then Redgard (or aqua defense) the durarock for waterproofing. you don't do both

Greenboard (What you have pictured) by itself is not waterproof and is not acceptable for a shower area.

OSB? Really?

I'm still unclear as to the wallboard. It is not USG durock cement board as I see a white core. Perhaps USG Glass Mat.

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/floors-tile/tile-prep/cement-board-backer-board/durock-glass-mat-tile-backerboard.221863.html

I’m looking at the durock and it’s green on one side and grey on the other...

jenna,,you're not answering any of the questions.

did you read my comment and look at the pictures? I explain everything

this is Durock. see the name? and the blue stuff is the painted on Aqua Defense. and see how the seams are all taped and mudded? Do you see this on any of yours?

I can't answer the questions, I've tried by best. I only saw/have photos from the durock and then the tile being placed. I went out into the garage and see the durock - gray on one side green on the other. Durock moisture resistant

I mentioned in above comments how the floor was done.

resistant doesn't mean waterproof. if they're using that, then they should have done the vapor barrier like I showed you. (or coated the front w/waterproofing membrane. It HAS to be one or the other for the shower)

here's the thing. grout isn't waterproof. so that water will slowly seep into the joints and hit the Durock. over time it penetrates the Durock (again, resistant isn't waterproof. a watch is water resistant. if you stay in the water too long w/it, what happens? same w/what you have)

so water continually penetrates it and seeps back behind it to your studs. That's how water damage to wood studs in your walls happen and how mold starts to build.

So, you need to ask the tile guys. Code requires a vapor barrier behind (the plastic sheeting) , OR a waterproofing membrane on the surface of the Durock. If they didn't do either, it's your walls and your dime.

One, or the other.

AND, I don't see a picture where they seamed and mudded the joints of the Durock. Corners are especially vulnerable to water damage. (which is why all these joints need silicone caulk and not grout) So now water will easily get in behind that joint and soak your studs even faster

see the pictures above w/taped seams? if you guys didn't do that, and didn't do a vapor or waterproof membrane, they're hacks. and the shower is a tear out and redo. period

show them this and ask them if they will warranty your shower against water damage. I bet I know what they say.....

show a photo of what is in the garage- durock usually has the name printed boldly like Beths photos, your photos don't have any brandmarks which is why people doubt it is durock. Regardless, it would still need waterproofing (durock is water resistant meaning it will not break down in water but does not block water)

Regardless, your tile install was not properly done by a professional and needs to come out. Lining up joints is tile setting 101

USG - Durock has more than one type of board approved for wet areas. USG usually is printed on their specialty boards. (The reason for the link I provided above.)

Creative, but even still, wouldn't the vapor barrier behind, or the waterproof membrane to the front, still need to be done?

Wouldn't the grout lines still need to line up? (attempt at humor after looking at CAD for four hours)

@Beth - Several boards on the market have a vapor barrier built into them. Only the seams and fasteners require treatment. Without knowing exactly which product was used on Jenna's project I can't provide a definitive response.

Example - poly is applied to the studs as a vapor barrier and then a board is applied over that with a vapor barrier built into it. Now you may have created the dreaded moisture sandwich. Not saying that is the case. Product & method research is key.

ok, got it. from the looks of what she is showing us, I thought it was regular green board. But if they're telling her it's the Durock w/the barrier built into it?

Jenna, you'll have to confirm what exactly is on your wall. Merely telling us the name isn't good enough. We need the exact product description.

you should have a contract or some paperwork that should tell you the products used.

Hallett, yes of course!!

Jenna, you've noticed that the grout lines (spacing layout on the offset pattern) don't match between the shower/bathtub, right? And that pony wall front column? the one I circled? none of those match.

I don't know what you paid for this job. Willing to share?

Thanks everyone. After all your VERY helpful comments, I am going to find out from my contractor exactly what is behind the tile and then demand the tile is redone. I also want to see each stage and take photos before we move to the next. You have all pointed out things I simply missed. He comes tomorrow to "finish" the job but....might be nearly a restart.

"You have all pointed out things I simply missed."

In a perfect world you should not be expected know these details. That is the professional's responsibility. It boils down to the hiring process.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

good idea.

after that's done, have you though about doing something like this for the window?

(notice the inset niche on the right wall. more about this below)

And maybe some wood shelves on the other wall? the addition of some warmer wood accents would help warm up all the cool tones

BTW, as a suggestion, you could bring out a portion of that wall for a ledge.

If they're redoing that, you may want to try something like this. you can top the ledge w/piece of leftover quartz, or countertop piece.

you get some nice storage for soaps. notice the window treatment option too.

This one spans the wall. it's easy enough to fir out this bump out and tile right over it.

even doing a wood shelf w/the tile stops for a ledge would be a great idea. you could add some plants or small items. on the other wall do similar wood shelving

actually love doing a recessed or inset shelving niche.

you could line it with the wood, or something like this:

these are pretty simple to do and really give the room an added decor element.

Or, have the tile guys inset a niche on the pony wall. Like this one:

you have all of that room for a niche (or the ledge) for soaps or scrubby brushes. Don't let it go to waste. If you're getting it redone, modify this tub spot to accommodate some of these things.

hey everyone - funny story. The contractor wouldn't answer my questions and wouldn't fix anything I was unhappy with so I just fired him. $4500 in and floor tile, demo (lots of it), vanity complete so I do feel like I'm on the winning end of that. He's at a loss.

I'll have to repurchase all that tile and fins a new contractor..super fun.

Ugh, I'm sorry Jenna Y.

Sorry Jenna, what a pain. Post photos of what you find during demo and the progress!

AJCN - thank you so much! I paid 50% up front and then the remaining would be due after the job. I did not plan on asking for any money back - I just want to split ways but I am going to send an email using your template that validates his refusal to redo the work and we agreed on termination.

The excellent tile pro I hired to re-do my botched bathroom was listed on this site, but that's not how I found him. Someone on gardenweb recommended him based on my zip code when I was on here begging for help.

www.tile-assn.com

Click on "FInd a contractor" and enter your zip code and how many miles to search.

There's also this one. I got fewer hits on here, but the site has tons of good information.

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org

This site has lots of information. Here's where you click to find a contractor:

https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/find-certified-tile-installers

The more you learn about how this needs to be done, the better. I ordered a downloadable version of this:

https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook.html

Read the introduction, flooring and shower chapters to learn what the industry says about how to do tile. In your next contract, put language in there that says something like "All work will be executed in adherence to industry/TCNA standards, local building and plumbing codes and manufacturer's instructions." Something like that. Maybe a pro on here can improve on that sentence.

Yes, definitely send that email. You are in kind of a similar spot as we were when the bad GC quit. At that point we had paid about half. They quit, so obviously the other half would not have been owed to them. They sued us a couple months later saying we fired them without giving them a chance to fix it. You need something that proves that he refused to fix.

If you have the patience to read my "Goes South" post, you will find some info in there about taking pictures, saving all your communications, never letting a communication happen verbally without an email back-up, how to handle in person meetings and taking notes, and how to confirm those by email, etc. Might be helpful to you as you move forward.

Jenna, good advice from AJCN.

So he refused to answer your questions when you asked him about waterproofing? Wow. I wonder why.

when you do find a new tile guy, you don't have to pay 50% up front. That's too much (especially if you're providing the tiles).

20% is fine to start. as the job progresses, he should be paid in increments. (and this should be spelled out in a contract. ) But giving someone 50% right off the top, is a red flag.

btw, to find a good tile guy, try going into a good quality tile store. ask to speak to the manager of the store. Ask who he had do his shower.

and now that you know what to look for, you'll be able to ask the new tile guy about his steps at waterproofing.

so sorry you're going through this. document the demo portion w/pics. (just in case idiot contractor decides to get ugly) And don't be afraid to file a complaint with the State Contractors Board. If he's refusing to answer any of your questions, then you don't want someone else down the road getting stuck w/him.

I’m sorry this is happening but I appreciate you sharing your story so the rest of us can learn.

@Beth H, I would really appreciate any suggestions you might have for my master bathroom. Please see https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5948706/need-a-master-bath-transformation#n=5