Can’t help with recommendations but no, the calcium sulfate and the dihydrate are different. The dihydrate is faster acting and 100 lbs contains 79 lbs of calcium sulfate whereas 100 lbs is 100 lbs with the calcium sulfate and is a more steady, long term incorporation.

tj

I just had to stop in from chopping back a lilac that broke in Fay's winds yesterday (it was overgrowing anyway) as I wasn't feeling so well. So my heat prostration is your benefit and you get a read while I cool off in a 72 degree house.

Did I do the previous read? I have no memory of it, but I read so many that I probably wouldn't. No matter, I'm going to assume I did and that you don't need the whole rundown, just the high points. If I didn't, let me know. I'm actually getting the feeling I didn't because....massive calcium sulfate on this soil alone doesn't feel like a recommendation I'd make. Frankly, it has other issues.

You're done with the calcium sulfate of any variety, the calcium is within spitting distance, we're not going to influence the magnesium much more, and we're running the risk of abolishing too much potassium (more on that later because...too late but fortunately that's cheap and easy).

Phosphorus 99: Low. Target would normally be 200, but with a pH of 7.6, phosphorus is fairly heavily bound. I'm raising the target to 260. Normally I'd recommend starter, but due to other issues here, I'm going to recommend balanced fertilizer of 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 or whatever you can get where the three numbers are equal or very close. Most big box stores carry something like this.

OM 2.7%: Low-ish and the next thing to emphasize. This doesn't rise quickly, so I'd push toward feeding organically, mulch mowing, mowing all your fall leaves, and so on. Import leaves from properties you know are good if that's possible, but you don't really need to make a major effort on this.

Potassium 2.4%: Not low, exactly, but about 100 pounds per acre short in the soil. I'd like to boost this up to raise the grass' weather tolerance and disease resistance a bit. That's why I recommended the balanced fertilizer above. It's odd that I do so, but in this case, with this much calcium in the soil, I'm OK with it. As we get a little closer to the target, I'm change my recommendation if necessary.

Minor and Trace Elements: Even frigging cobalt is perfect. Mind, iron could go up, but you won't see too much effect from that at your pH. If you want to add iron to the soil using Milorganite or Bay State or Ocean Gro, go for it. Just don't expect too much in the range of what you see.

Recommendations:

Your lawn looks like it's up north and a tri-mix, but it's hard to tell with the distance photo and the dormancy. Let me know if I'm wrong because all the timing shifts.

September 1: Apply 20-20-20 at bag rate (5 pounds per thousand square feet should be the bag rate) or 10-10-10 at bag rate (10 pounds per thousand).

October 1: Apply 20-20-20 at bag rate (5 pounds per thousand square feet should be the bag rate) or 10-10-10 at bag rate (10 pounds per thousand).

Labor Day, 2021: Apply 20-20-20 at bag rate (5 pounds per thousand square feet should be the bag rate) or 10-10-10 at bag rate (10 pounds per thousand).

Can you please remind us where you live?

I see his (5A SE WI) next to his name. Not sure why some see it and some don’t when folks set up their zone in their settings. May be a Houzz.com vs gardenweb.com thing, You see mine because I made it my last name so all can see it.

tj

tj, thanks that explains the higher price point for the slower release product.

morpheus, yes you and a few others have helped out with the previous reports - thank you btw. Below is the report from 2018 to show the progress. Also I've included a link to the product I plan to put down this fall per your recommendations.

Late Summer 2018 Report

Fertilizer per recommendation - Look good?

http://www.springvalleyusa.com/sites/default/files/label/L2014500.pdf

BTW does turf typically go into a longer state of dormancy even after a large rain event? Rain first started this past Wednesday. I've never seen this before so I'm a bit concerned the grass is dead.

Well...it doesn’t look good but I have seen my grass take two weeks to green up again after a long, hot dry spell. Not only does the rain need to be more consistent for you but these 90s need to ease up as well for your young lawn.

tj

I'm fine with that 14-14-14; the micros aren't out of line with maintenance, and the 1% iron is nice, too. Application rates should be 7.2 pounds per thousand square feet, but 7 pounds is more than close enough, as is 7.5.

The calculation on that is easy; 100/14, with the target being 1 pound of each nutrient per thousand square feet per application. Since the fourteen is a percentage, we use 100 as the base.

In hot weather? Lawns will play the waiting game. I won't be photographing my southwestern face right now, which looks comparable to your lawn. This is completely normal in July. The grass knows what the date is. If the rains continue, the grass will awaken. But dormancy and slowdown costs a ton of energy and it's not going to reverse that because doing it a second time too quickly can be fatal.

Trust the grass. Its genes know what they're doing and right now, they're programming it to stay asleep. Consume. Chew bubblegum and... Sorry, wrong movie. You get the idea.