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Repair or Replace 5 ton system

6 years ago

Hi all. Thanks in advance for any help or thoughts. I have a repair vs replace decision to make. My house has 3 compressors/air handlers (5, 4, 3 tons respectively). 3 weeks ago I noticed that the upstairs (5 ton) system had stopped cooling. I poked my head into the attic - the condensate drain had become clogged, the overflow pan filled, and the float switch had shut the outdoor compressor unit down. I had been pouring bleach/water in it regularly but I guess it wasn’t enough. This has happened once before. Different this time - the blower fan was still running (but not the outdoor compressor). I waited an hour for it to stop but it did not, so I shut the breaker off. I drained the overflow pan and opened the access panels to the air handler guts. The coils were clean, but there was evidence of water throughout the unit. I did notice that the main circuit board looked corroded, and that it was in an area where it probably got wet whenever the unit overflowed with water. I put it all back together. I turned the breaker back on and heard the outdoor compressor turn on and assumed the unit was back to normal. The unit ran as normal (I thought) through a hot summer day. Later that day I noticed that while the compressor was running, the fan was not – air was not moving. I tried adjusting the thermostats to ‘cool’ and to ‘fan’ but nothing would make the blower click on. I made an appointment for an HVAC tech to come out the next day and went off to sleep in the basement. The tech came the next day and after poking around said the circuit board was bad. It took a few days but he came back with a replacement. After replacing the board the unit came back on normally (blower and compressor) but the air was not cool. He hooked up his equipment to the compressor and told me the refrigerant was very low and that I must have a leak now. He added some refrigerant and the air coming out of the vents turned cold. Within two days it was back to being just a little cool again (not cold enough to cool the house in daytime). Same tech came back out, added a ‘leak fixer’ and some more refrigerant and told me he doubted it would fix it but was worth a try. Same result – within one day the air was cool but not cold.


Background: The house has been remodeled since the attic air handler was installed, and the opening left for access is not big enough to get the old air handler out or a new one in. Any replacement of the handler or the coils will either require serious carpentry to the house or disassembly and reassembly of the replacement and old unit.


I bought the house 6 years ago. In the documentation is a receipt for the replacement of the 5 ton compressor and new coil in 2011. The unit worked great up until 3 weeks ago. Compressor is model Goodman ssx160591aa; coil is CHPF4860D6; air handler is MVBC2000AA-1AC. I had a lot of work done on the attic ducting / zoning three years ago and I am pretty sure the coil was disconnected / reconnected during that, if that matters.


I suspect something happened to the coil or its connections during the above drain overflow events – maybe it froze solid and something shifted(?) I am thinking of asking for two sets of quotes – one for an isolation test and how much to replace the coil if that is in fact the issue, and another quote to replace the whole 5 ton system.


If you told me I would get 5 years out of a repaired (replaced coil) system, I would lean towards the repair. First, I think it avoids the carpentry issue. Second, the other two units (4 ton and 3 ton) are both r22 and I know I am going to need to do something eventually. I have had a ton of insulating work done over the past few years and suspect I don’t need this much cooling, but would like to approach a complete retool in a thoughtful manner, not in the middle of a Summer of lockdown with a grumpy hot family.


Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Comments (10)

  • 6 years ago

    How old is the 5 Ton system?...the 5 Ton system is an r-22 refrigerant as well....taking into consideration age, repair history, Goodman brand, and recent problems, I think any resources spent on this System would be a complete Waste. Take your losses and replace. If you are hesitant about this strategy, maybe a second opinion is in order.


    IMO

  • 6 years ago

    Thanks. The 5 ton system is 9 years old. It is an r410a system, according to the specs stamped on the side of it, as well as the HVAC tech who worked on it the past 3 weeks. If it was r22 I agree this would be a much simpler decision. FWIW the compressor seems to be in great shape and I have had it serviced every Spring since I bought the house 6 years ago.


    Thank you for your feedback.

  • 6 years ago

    I misunderstood...you said a new compressor in 2011. i assume you meant to say new condenser in 2011. makes a difference. Where is the leak, ie in the condenser coil or more likely the evap coil. if Evap coil needs replacing, you are looking at a charge of apprx $2500. weigh this cost against a new replacement of both condenser and Evap coil.


    TD

  • 6 years ago

    Sorry - yes, my mistake the whole outdoor unit was replaced in 2011, as was the indoor evap coil. They suspect the evap coil has the leak now, so I think that is what will ultimately need to be replaced if I go down that path. I live in a high cost area for any sort of house repair, so I'm guessing a full replacement of the 5 ton system (condenser + air handler/coil) is going to be easily $10,000+. I am hoping to have initial quotes tomorrow.

  • 6 years ago

    How large of an area is serviced by this 5 ton unit? What insulation have you upgraded? I suspect 5 tons is over sized for what you need.


    How long do you plan to live in this house? That would factor into repair versus a total replacement decision.

  • 6 years ago

    I have three AC units in my home, too. Depending on how they are zoned, you could easily require a 5 ton unit in one zone. I just went through the same exercise. My unit was 20 years old, a POS Heil, and we knew we were facing a full replacement sooner rather than later.

    I have an outstanding HVAC guy. He had already warned us that it was a year by year situation. We were prepared for failure of the unit. Usually the capacitor goes bad. Did your HVAC guy mark how full he had filled refrigerant and the date? You need to do this to calculate the rate of loss. You might be able to get through season.

    We bit the bullet and had this one replaced with a Carrier. But, the age and quality of ours made the decision easy.

  • 6 years ago

    The plan is to stay in the house for at least 10 more years. The house is 5500 sq feet or so, and this unit covers the whole upstairs split into two zones. I don't know the actual sq footage of the upstairs. There are some open ceiling areas from the first floor. The other two AC units cover the main floor. The finished basement gets no AC and doesn't need it.


    I am monitoring the air temp coming out of my 'reference' register with a FLIR camera. Basically the effect of the new refrigerant is gone about 24 hours after they refill it. I was hoping the leak fix stuff would help get me through Summer but no luck.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    In that case you should do a system replacement. I suspect you can reduce the size to 4 tons and possibly more. See if you can find a contractor who will do a load calculation.

  • 6 years ago

    If you plan on being there for an extended time, plan on replacing the coil and the compressor. Take the opportunity to create acceptable access for the unit. I can't imagine having a unit that can't be accessed for maintenance.

  • 6 years ago

    Thanks for all the feedback. Access to the system is not really problematic for maintenance - it would just be removal of the old air handler and installation of a new one that would exceed the size of the current access. The HVAC company I am now working with is being very constructive. Right now the system cools enough for us to get by (but can’t keep up on 95 degree days) so they are going to wait for a cool spell next week and then do a pressure test. Their quote is much more reasonable than my previous quotes and they seem much more engaged and focused on identifying the problem and then creating and considering alternatives (including potentially replacing condenser and coil), rather than squeezing maximum $ out of every call or visit.


    Also, in answer to one of the questions - the insulation was a whole bunch of air sealing (the house basically flunked the blower door test - they literally could not get a reading it was so leaky), blown in insulation in all flat areas of attic, and also hard panel insulation + expanding foam anywhere else. I don’t recall what the exact materials were but it made a huge difference in terms of comfort and bills. We did not have the wall cavities re-filled, though that is in the plan in the next year or two.


    Thanks again. Will post updates as I get them.