Discuss with your supplier.

It depends on the layout of the spaces, window sizes, exterior wall construction, wall opening locations, and several other things. You may want to get your advice from someone that can experience your house in person.

Thanks, will do! I was just trying to do a little research before I get a quote. Sounds like i might just have to wait till I have someone out.

Obviously you would not want to size a system like that. Climate, insulation, etc matter.

Depending on climate, you may want to leave the baseboards in place as backup.

Not sure upstairs needs unit. It would depend on climate, insulation, and how you like to sleep. Heat rises and all and most like to sleep in a cool room. You could retain the baseboard to warm up the room on a really cold morning. But if you have large windows up there or inadequate insulation .... it all depends.

You certainly don't need to heat a storage basement.

Do you have to do it all at once? Are you doing it to save electricity or get rid of ugly baseboards? I might do a first floor one and see how it goes if you are flexible.

Hey David, Thank so much for your insight. I'm doing it to save on electric bill. We're just moving in but have been warned that the electric baseboard can be crazy $$$. I'm going to get some HVAC people out to give me a quote, but it's been a slow process as there's a real housing boom in my area and people are very booked out (Catskills, NY).

The house also has a beautiful ceramic wood stove, so I'm hoping that and the heat pumps will be enough to mostly eliminate the electric baseboard. Of course it is a quite cold area...

Hey Mike, thanks for your insights. I need it more for heating then cooling, it's a cold, mountainous area (Catskills, NY), so I am not too concerned about summer, more about winter. I'm going to have some HVAC people come out and give me estimates, just trying to do a little pre-planning. I've heard from some people that putting a unit on the second floor is more necessary for cooling than heating, usually. The house has all high performance Anderson windows and pretty good insulation, so I'm hoping the heat pumps (plus my ceramic wood stove) can get me mostly off baseboard dependence.

Hi, Bryan,

The design of a HVAC system involves a lot more than simple calculation of the total heating and cooling load--especially in a retrofit application. I suggest you consider a variety of alternatives for which sales/service are readily available in your area and which utilize a readily available and cost-effective energy source. A good HVAC contractor will be able to help you think through the various alternatives.

Thanks for the location. Certainly some variation in local climate it seems. What elevation are you at? All things are relative and "cold, mountainous" would be 2 of those terms.

Looks like average winter low is about 15 degrees.

"Pretty good insulation" would also be relative. How old is the house gives some estimate. Having electric baseboard that far North would probably mean at least 50 years old. I mean I have lived in some very old houses (that would be 100 years old now) in Buffalo and Ithaca and had electric baseboard one time.

Sizing is determined by both cooling and heating. Generally - a northern area where heating dominates, the sizing is by heating. Where I live, it is still usually heating despite what people think. But large western windows can change that.

Bias alert. I think HVAC folks are going to encourage multiple units and I doubt you "need" them. You could spend $4000 on a single unit and get payback in 2 years. Your could spend $8000 on 2 units and get payback on the second unit - never. But the HVAC guy gets payback right away.

Are you living there year round?

And, adding to what Charles said - are you open to adding ductwork or not? Are you open to other fuels? I think a minisplit will probably be the best but there are other choices. Probably more like $20k rather than $4k.

I agree the design of the HVAC system is much more than the simple load calculation. Unfortunately we see many posts on this forum about installations where the size was incorrect because the installer did not do the calculation. Sizing base on floor area are is not a calculation in my opinion.

A heat pump. of any type should be sized for the cooling load. The reason is if you over size the cooling capacity then you may get poor humidity control. If you under size for cooling then you get an uncomfortable house. In this case if you don't plan to use the mini split in the summer then over sizing for cooling should not be a problem.

Bryan, I design and install air source heat pump systems out of Clifton Park, NY. You can search for my company with the same last name there if you'd like to contact me, email is best.

We would perform an energy assessment on your house, which includes a blower door test, in order to form an energy model and accurate load calculation.

From there I would discuss the best options with you.

We're doing an install down in Rhinebeck on a new construction job because the home owner couldn't find a reasonable quote from local installers.

Depending on your utility company, since we're a NYSERDA contractor, I should be able to get you a $1,000/per 10,000 btu capacity (at 5 degrees F) rebate for the install, as well.

I'm finishing construction of my own home that is 100% electric using heat pumps for HVAC.

Let me know if you don't find someone more local that you like. Catskill isn't too far for us.

Hey David, Thanks for your input. The house is actually only built in 1990, so I am surprised as well it only had electric baseboard. It seems insulation is pretty good because it's a newer construction. I'm starting to get some estimates and it seems like HVAC companies all want to put 4 heads in my home, 2-3 condensers outside (!). 2 heads on the main floor, one in the finished basement and one on the top floor. Maybe that is a lot, but I will add that the main room has up to 18 foot ceilings and there is a entry mud room that has a wall of 8' x 11' windows. A lot of windows throughout the whole home too.

That is pretty surprising. I have to laugh a little about "newer construction" but all things are relative. With large windows and tall ceilings, your load is going to be pretty high so may make the payoff on a more complete system a little better.

What kind of electric rates do you have and do you have any idea what this is going to cost in the winter to heat? I mean is it $1000 a month? The more it costs, the more that a bigger system makes sense. Did you say that you have wood stove also?

Hey David, Yeah, I get what you are saying, I was calling it a "newer construction" just meaning it's a not an 80 year old home. But yes, surprising it has only electric baseboard. I don't know the current electric rates as the home was unoccupied previously and we are just closing on it now. I am guessing the electric baseboard would be $500+ a month in heating. But I do have a ceramic tile stove so hoping to offset some of that cost.

But yes, I am thinking trying to get completely off the electric baseboard, only use it for emmergency backup. I had one person come out and give a quote, and it was 3 condensers and 4 heads, which maybe seems like overkill? 4 heads makes sense but would think this could be off 2 condensers?