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Pruning cane begonias in Southern California?

5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago

I have two cane begonias (Irene Nuss-type but maybe not exactly Irene Nuss, I can't remember) that I have been growing for a few years. They got very tall and spindly but they flowered profusely. I read last year that I really should be pruning them back each year, which I wasn't doing. I read that in our climate I should prune about 1/3 off each year around President's Day so this year I did that despite the fact that the begonias were actually covered in flowers at the time.


That left very few leaves on the plants and they didn't even start to really grow at all until May. I just recently got my first flowers again. One of the plants did shoot up a new cane. The other one has not. I would say they look a little more full than before, but there's not a huge difference.


I am asking myself what the point of that was, because I pretty much sacrificed an entire season of flowers and I don't see any benefit from it. As the plants are growing they are starting to look like they did before except (as I said) a little bit more full Slightly fuller plants don't seem worth not having any flowers for 6 months.


What am I missing here? Should I prune them again next February or was that a mistake?

Comments (12)

  • 5 years ago

    There used to be a very nice website by the late Brad Thompson that had lots of tips on begonias and pruning was one of the topics. He recommended pruning canes in fall for your climate and spring for colder regions (or I may have those mixed up as I prune when I feel like it). You can buy his book at the ABS book store (begonias.org) which is basically what the web site had.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Hi Dimi.... right or wrong, today I pruned my dragon wing (in the ground) down by about half. Removed dead, general tidy up. Some leaves left of course. It did have flowers on it. I gave it a weak feeding, may be early for that however. I don’t know how it will fare in the spring and summer, but I hope it will do OK. I don’t want tall rangy overgrown stalks, I like a fuller plant.

    What did you decide?

  • 5 years ago

    I never prune them and pruning for more blooms does not work. What works is more water and using a high mid number fertilizer to encourage blooms.

    Well,prune out dead or dying canes..otherwise they are evergreen subtropicals.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    When you trim look for secondary buds as that is where new branches will form. Where the flowers were there will be no secondary bud and so no new branches. This is also important when propagating so you can get new branches from a cutting. Pinching selectively throughout the year is also a good way to generate new growth and branching. When the plant has plenty of branches and secondary buds it is OK to trim up to 1/3 to control height and shape.

  • 5 years ago

    I think pruning, at least in my climate, was a mistake. They still don't look as good as they did before I pruned them. I won't ever do that again.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Dimitrig,

    When did you prune and where do you live? How hard did you prune as well? They might look naked for a while but they usually make up for it if you don't water heavily and have some patience.


    Never mind I see you started this thread and have So. Cal in your heading.


    I pruned a few down this winter and put the tops in water to begin with and then to pots. The mother plants are doing well too but I am thinking about pruning all the older stems to the ground so the new shoots can outperform the previous years of growth.



  • 5 years ago

    I pruned 1/3 off and it took forever for them to leaf out again. If you want to make cuttings that's a different story, but I think a hard pruning otherwise is not warranted. A light pruning would probably be okay.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Always look for the secondary bud to cut back to. Many cane begonias will flower at nearly every bud and there will not be a secondary bud at those nodes. Cutting back to a node without a secondary bud will result in mainly stem growth and fewer branches, leaves and flowers.


    This is Begonia Kent Brandon. The stem left of center shows where it was cut back to just above a node with a second bud. That node has a new leaf and the third node below that has the flower panacle. The flower also came from a secondary bud but will not leave a new one.A secondary bud can become a new leaf or a new branch or a flower.

  • 5 years ago

    I'm not sure what you mean by "secondary bud." Where it's branching?

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Look at where the leaf attaches to the stem. There is a bump just above and touching the leaf petiole.

    Further when planting cuttings if you put one or two nodes under the soil they will become lateral roots or another stem growing out of the soil. This trick makes bigger, stronger, faster plants.

    Pinching is a good thing to do as pinching out the terminal bud will redirect the growth hormones to the buds below and force new branching and flowers.

  • 5 years ago

    Very helpful thanks! I did not cut back my angel wings and one looks like a palm tree. I think I will wait and prune it back this fall.

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