Don't make yourself crazy with plans. Make what is called a bubble diagram and a detailed lit of wants and needs. The more time you spend trying to draw a house plan the more invested you become and the harder it will be for the architect to do his job. Assuming you are using a real licensed architect he not truly use your for plan for much more than a basic guide which is why all you need is a decent bubble diagram.

That is what you are paying an architect for - he/she deals with those structural questions - every house and every area has different requirements and codes. Just decide on the sizes of the rooms and general specifications. Make the architect earn some of their money.

Good luck!

Typically I use a general wall thickness of 4", but it's most relavent in renovations, since you're trying to fit in existing spaces. Depending on how exact you need room sizes to be and how much you're expecting the architect to do, it might not be something you need to worry about much. If you're doing the lion's share and getting an architect/draftsman to turn your plan into something construction ready it might make a difference, but they should be able to work with you to make sure the house works even without, especially if they'll be helping with sizing/spacing for code and structure.

I use four inches because I assume 2x4s are being used, and that gives space for electrical and plumbing and such ... if you need soundproofing added, you might need more but I don't know.

Thank you so much for the all the advice. I actually do have photos of most things my wife and I want, and we understand that nothing will come out perfect. I had originally began pursuing a degrees in architecture and engineering, so I have some knowledge and thought I could draw up some mock drafts myself.

But it's been years since I switched degree plans, and wasn't sure about a few things for home design. We have a pretty specific list of rooms and general placement, so I just wanted to make the architects job a little easier. 😄 I guess in this situation you leave it to the experts.

Thanks everyone!

Contact a local architect and ask them, "Do you want me to design my house and bring it to you to draw up formal plans?" A real architect will answer "No" and direct you provide them with a list of your wants and needs, a survey of your site, and set up a meeting to gather information about each other to possibly start the design process.

Not a pro but have been involved in building a couple of houses.

Interior stud walls usually will be built with 2"x4" studs -- with dry wall added to that ... on both sides.

The studs are usually placed for 16" centers, meaning a single sheet of sheet rock or plywood paneling will have four studs adn the measurement from the center of one stud to the center of the other stud is usually about 16" .

The two side edges of a 4'x8' drywall or paneling will usually overlap at least a half a stud on each side with two more studs evenly spaced in the middle of the 4' wide panel.

There are places where double studs are used such as on each side of door frames and windows and at ends of walls

Making your exterior stud walls six inches deep -- 2"x6" studs -- enables you to have more insulation and can give you a deeper window sill.

Studs are usually used in lieu of slightly longer 2"x4"x8' boards because studs are shorter and since there will usually be double horizontal plate beneath and atop the stud wall, the shorter stud can enable an 8' high ceiling -- with 8' being the usual size of drywall ( usually 4' wide and 8' tal).

In our area, 2 x 6 is mandatory now.

It's not as easy as just saying "interior walls are 2x4 construction". We have load bearing interior walls in the basement and on the first floor that are both 2x6 studs due to bearing the load from the vaulted ceiling and roof.

True - but 1 story home, likely 2x4s for interior wall. But it is a good point.

Angel - are you sure about that? There is very little reason for that prescription and it is likely a misunderstanding on your part. And I am talking for exterior walls. Interior walls would be so unlikely that I can confidently say you are wrong.

As far as climate - no that doesn't matter for interior walls. For soundproofing - that depends. Very few people are willing to pay and want "soundproofing". You may want some reduction in sound transmission but unless you have a music studio or high security conference room, soundproofing is not a concern.

Most good practices for sound reduction do not increase wall thickness. But getting thicker drywall or 2 layers of drywall add a little. Resilient channels add a small amount. But for the most part, you just want to seal air movement and make sure vents and outlets don't line up. Most of the time, doors are far and away your biggest issue particularly in a 1 story home. Solid core doors are not thicker and using exterior doors/jambs with weather stripping isn't thicker either - and few people go that far anyway.

Here is an article on 2 x 4 vs 2 x 6 you might find helpful for exterior walls.

I especially like the larger window sills you get with 2 x 6 exterior walls.

https://www.theplancollection.com/house-plan-related-articles/2x4-or-2x6-construction

A study you might find interesting.

https://www.mich-energy.com/single-post/2018/09/24/A-Surprising-Financial-Study-of-2x6-Construction

@Angel 18432 the OP specifically is asking about interior walls, NOT exterior walls.

I realize, but thought they may want to consider the outer walls as they are still in the

early stages of building a new home.

Exterior walls is definitely something I'd leave to the architect, since they don't generally impact the layout or how things align. Exterior walls are the the border on the quilt; it impacts the overall size but not the design. If you're running close to a lot line, it might be relevant.

We have sound walls around our Master Bedroom. I believe the builders added additional drywall and used additional insulation, as well as solid core doors.

Sorry for the late response, but my wife and I deeply appreciate everyone's input. I will look at those articles later today, thank you Angel.

My wife and I are looking at having a brick exterior with an observation deck (enclosed) above the garage to see the sunsets.

We will have a home theater room, music room, and safe room (storm shelter) connected to the master bedroom as well. We don't want sound proofing throughout the whole house, but a large portion of it.

We're just trying to come up with a basic blueprint that makes sense with the room dimensions and room placement that suits us best.

Draw the exterior walls a foot thick and the interior walls 4 1/2" thick. Be prepared to throw out your plan in the first design meeting with your architect. If you're dealing with a real architect the only benefit of your plan will be to show the architect what kind of spaces you want so don't spend too much time drawing it.