I don't know, frankly I'd expect a counter top to be cut on an angle to adjust for the type of wall unevenness pictured. This could have been dealt with by taking a few more simple measurements. Any remaining gap would best be dealt with via caulk.

I understand the wall isn’t straight but wouldn’t they account for that when doing the template? how am I supposed to fix the wall to be straight?

What's the width of the gap?

Morons. This is templating 101. Make them pay to redo the piece or pay to have your wall built out, feathered, primed, and painted.

Depending on your layout and your fussiness about the amount of top overhanging your cabinets it's possible to scribe it to fit.

So I finally got a response, they basically said it’s not their fault.. here is their reason “We can not digitally measure that area, as we digitally measure cabinets only for horizontal surfaces, that is how that machine works”. I’m not sure what the heck that means. They want to add an extra piece to cover it up.. this whole situation sucks.

guess my only option is small

claims court as I already paid them the entire amount. I did use a credit card but I’m not sure if I can do a chargeback on something like this. its really annoying how they won’t accept fault here.

I had the same issue unfortunately. Once the full quartz backsplash was put it, it was not noticeabl.

Are you tiling? I assume you are, or where is the riser matching the tops? And it was a lousy digital template.

Stand back and lets see it as part of the entire kitchen with more pictures.

They told me they wanted to cover up the gap with backsplash, but my original design was up until the edge of the cabinet. I don’t like how backsplash looks sticking out that far..

You could score the drywall and slide the whole counter into the wall, but then the sink isn’t centered and the overhang on the end of the peninsula is different.

Here some better pictures of the kitchen

I love your cabinets. Who makes them?

These are ikea gloss beige Voxtorp

@Joseph Corlett, LLC is right, they screwed up the template, they could have also scribed the drywall and pushed it in to get it closer, but as @HALLETT & Co. noted, it would throw the overhang off at the end of the peninsula and near the range.

That said, if you doing tile you can do something like this and cover the top gap and it should be a big deal cover the gap on side of the counter.

I don’t want the backsplash to go past the cabinets, it looks out of place to me when it sticks past the upper cabinets

Years ago I had this happen and they cut a wedge of stone to fill the spot. Obviously there was a small seam but it was preferable to this.

She said something like filling the gap with a wedge but It bothers me because I paid for a whole slab to be done properly. not something that was left over or at a discount.

You can call your charge card company and dispute payment. They may or may not do it.

I would expect the top to be recut or for them to cover the cost of building out the wall. DO NOT do any tile work or any painting until this is resolved.

Fortunately the entire window wall is small and appears to have no casing. Install 1/2" drywall over the whole thing, then tape, mud, feather, prime, and paint.

Your wall was crooked anyway; now it will be straight. A good drywaller will be out of there in hours. Tell your fabricators you'll write them a nice review when they pay his bill.

what joseph said.

a good drywall guy can come out and fix this in a few hours. I had something similar w/a gap in my ceiling above the crown. the guys came in and skim coated it and it looks perfect. the gap was about the size of yours.

call a drywall expert to float it for you

as for tile, with that large a gap from the cab, some say tile, some say no. depends on the tile and the overall look

you can hang somehitn on the wall or even tile all the way up

A sliver add on can be undetectable. I’d let them try that first, subject to your approval. Second choice is float out the wall. Removing and replacing wouldn’t be on the table. A thicker tile backsplash will cover that gap. Between floating the wall out some, and a backsplash, it will all come together!

Woodsy Warm Kitchen · More Info

This has a wedge at the wall where a corner chipped. It’s invisible.

I don’t want the backsplash to go past the cabinets, it looks out of place to me when it sticks past the upper cabinets

I'm of the opposite opinion and think the backsplash should follow the counter and end where the counter ends. The purpose of the backsplash is to protect the wall from what happens on the counter. To me, it looks weird to stop it short of the end of the counter.

That said, your counter fabricators/ installers are idjits. That gap is inexcusable and I would not accept it.

.I am a fabricator. "A thicker tile backsplash will cover that gap" this is incorrect. Splash will cover the gap from a top view but the gap from the end of the countertop to the wall will still be visible from a side view. This is a botched measure and you should continue to pressure them to fix it so it is not noticable. A fill in wedge might be acceptable to you but it wouldn't be for me. a sheetrock fill in or a new countertop are the correct response. You might want to tell them you will make it your mission to post the pics and their inadequate response on every social media venue you can find. let us know if the credit card approach works

What is the name of your quartz countertops? They are beautiful!

THIS IS please > DO NOT .

Your eye goes right to the unfinished counter/backsplash. . Take tile to the counter top edge. The debates on this are numerous. Just don't do this. Sorry,, don't.

and I agree. I like to show multiple pics of both ways.

I've always said to take the tile to the end of the countertop. the backsplash is for the countertop, not the upper cabinets.

do some window casing trim around this window:

then you can take the tile to the end of the countertop, using the window trim as a border, kind of like they've done here w/the trim around the door.

and please, don't ever do tile like this.

get a proper edging or liner or bullnose for the outer edge. This is horrid looking

this is a bit more modern. ending it w/the upper cabinets w/a design like this actually looks alright. But tile choice and cabinet choice makes a huge diff in what looks best.

When our counters were done, they brought the main piece in ... set it on the cabinets ... did not cut the sink hole and took it away, promising to bring a new one that didn't have a large gap in the middle of the back. They asked if we knew that our wall bowed by about 4" (we did ... you can see it from outside - it's an 1825 house, and thats where it settled and is stable). They took new measurements and brought a new properly shaped piece of Corian and installed it. (We enjoy our extra inches, though you can't tell it's not straight from inside.) They ate any costs of their error, since they measured inadequately (someone forgot to measure in the middle, not just the two ends). They likely did use/sell that 10' piece, so probably no real loss for them. With cuts and install done on your piece, it's going to be a harder fight to get the stone changed ... especially with only half an inch, they'll probably want to play with the wall.

BB:

They likely seamed on to your Corian inconspicuously and used the same piece. Engineered stone isn't nearly as forgiving. A sliver installed installed on site here is unlikely to be inconspicuous especially with a white estone.

In the 5th picture that Beth H. posted if you run the backsplash to the end of the counter and if you use the metal edge on the tile (it comes in any color) and extend it to the bottom of the counter it will seamlessly cover the gap on the side of it and give you a nice finish.

Here is an example

That said, you got some good suggestions here, and on a general note, yes the fabricator makes a template and in most cases, they can tweak the template to follow the contour of the wall to get it closer, and in some cases, they will scribe drywall to push the stone in to get a better fit, same as they would shim the counter if cabinets have a dip, etc, but it's not really the installer responsibility to deal with out of the whack walls or cabinets because the can do only so much.

What if this was a stone backsplash, you cannot bend the stone, the wall would have to be straightened in order for the backsplash to lay flat.

So I doubt, you can request a new countertop as some suggested and no fabricator in his right mind will do that, because it's not their responsibility to fix crooked walls, therefore I would find a compromise and find a solution as some here suggested or come up with one of your own, but I wouldn't lose to much sleep over it, you have a beautiful kitchen, finish everything up and enjoy.

Good luck.

GN:

It is not a fabricator's responsibility to fix crooked walls, however, it is absolutely his responsibility to scribe a countertop to them.

Joe, I don't disagree and they always do...but it all depends on the circumstances.

P.S Looking at the original picture with the 5/8" wall being out, so I did a mockup, and if he would have scribed that corner, IMO it would stick out like a sore thumb when you on the side of it... and maybe this why it wasn't templated that way. The best way to fix this, it to run the tile of straightening out the wall.

This is how it will look with that corner scribed.

That said, Just noticed the last picture taking further back that the OP uploaded, there is a stud there that the telephone outlet is mounted on... if they don't want to run the tile to the end, I would cut a hole in the drywall (by pulling on the drywall it will release the nail/screw hold and the drywall will give) and pull the drywall out making it flush with the counter, patch the drywall and paint and everything will be nice n snug. This is an old trick used by many trim installers, or when ceilings are off and you run cabinet crown, etc.

Good luck

GN what is this sorcery of which you speak? How do you hold the drywall out once you’ve pried it away from the stud?

@HALLETT & Co. You pop off the nails/screw, slip a shim between the stud and drywall and it will stay out, works all the time.

The backsplash is the same material as the countertop. I’m really against moving the quartz backsplash oast The cabinets, the gap is large and I feel like it will look strange up top on the wall with nothing there. this whole situation sucks. feels like I’m between a rock and hard place. the manager is coming tomorrow to do the backsplash template so I’ll have to battle it out with him tomorrow.

I was thinking of maybe adding some open shelves so it doesn’t look so empty up top on the wall.. like this. What do y’all think? Probably 2, I think 3 maybe too much

Just a general observation for future remodelers:

When you are spending $$$ for new floors, new cabinets, $$$tone countertops, new appliances....spend a few $ to fix the freaking walls. Makes life much easier for the installers, you end up with a better result and avoid hair-pulling messes like this one.

@ci_lantro Couldn't agree with you more and it will be less finger-pointing whose job it is to straighten out the wall.

@Melissa Winry The last 2 pictures you posted, the top picture, the phone outlet should be located between 2 studs, have your contractor cut a hole under the counter between the 2 studs and shim the sheetrock and you will eliminate that gap, patch the hole and you be done with it.

Good luck

I had no idea the walls were not straight. Had I known I would have repaired the wall. Too late for that now Slab has already been cut.

I'm sure they all have levels and understand those concepts ... but in not old houses, they may not immediately assume it necessary, and if the level was held in the wrong location, you'd still not know. We had a contractor reshingling a side of our house, and a couple of the rows were a mess, but if you held the level in various places it could imply everything was fine despite being a wavy mess overall (it was fixed).

The bottom line is your fabricator did a terrible job with the template and they need to fix it. Straight walls? Even in new construction, there are slight variations and it's up to the countertop fabricator to take the variation into account. Keep pushing them to make the correction. Best of luck

Maybe it was their first job... ;-)