Try googling "how to raise PH in water" There is a lot of info on it. Rosie

Puppypro, I received Pauline Bartholomew's "Growing to Show" in the mail the other day, ordered from the AVSA. (It's way cheaper to order from AVSA than from Amazon.) There are a couple of pages about pH (39-40) and right after that, several pages about potting mixes and the function of each recommended ingredient. So, just a couple of highlights from there.

Ideal pH of the soil as watered with your fertilizer, per Pauline, is 6.2-6.9 (well, actually she likes 6.5-6.7 but says they'll be all right a little higher or lower). She also goes into how to test that, using pH test strips. It involves pouring water through the soil and so on, and it's a bit of a process. I think just testing your water isn't enough. Ask if you want to know about that, I'll summarize.

Regarding potting soil, she says that the already-acidic peat that we use tends to get more acidic as it breaks down. I deduce that this is one of the reasons it's recommended to repot at least every six months; Pauline says every TWO months (and I hear others go for four months), but I suspect that's if you're growing for competition. There is lots of valuable information in this section about why and where to get better ingredients, etc.

The element used for correcting soil pH is dolomite lime. (Emphatically not hydrated lime.) I'm not sure about using aquarium pH correction drops, hopefully someone else will chime in on that. She offers a recipe and covers how to mix up your soil, test it using your own water/fertilizer formula, and then make adjustments. It's a bit of a process, but personally I enjoy messing around with chemistry experiments.

I like very much that she doesn't waste words in this book, yet doesn't neglect details either, as far as I can tell.

I haven't jumped into all this with both feet yet but repotting time is coming up and I'm considering assembling what I would need.

Joan

From reading posts on Facebook, it appears that many growers successfully use aquarium drops like PhUP or PhDown to adjust the Ph. I seem to recall that old time growers added baking soda to their water for a quick rise in Ph. Adding dolomite lime as Joan suggested definitely has advantages.

Terri

Hi Terri! That is why I referred her to google the info. There are some quick fixes for the problem. Rosie

Usually the water from the well is on alkaline side, some times way too alkaline. Seems that it is OK when it is fresh mixed.

What is good soil? It should be balanced to pretty much neutral if it is ready made.

I am thinking - you need to check the soil - I think you can find the instructions - but basically you add distilled water to a glass of dry soil, let it sit - and measure the Ph of the slush. If it good - fine. Next - the soil has peat - and depending on the humidity and temperature it deteriorates releasing humic acid. If you live i FL - it takes 4 months for soil to become acid. If you live in MN - less. On reservoirs the soil is moist - so this process speeds up.

What fertilizer do you use? If it is organic... it will turn acid.

lets try to find a weak spot.

I.

thanks for your input, irina...our well water tested a pH of 7 when we moved in 3 yrs ago...i've tested it and it is slightly acidic at about 6.6...i use hunter's wycked wick soil, and so far, i've been pleased with it...fertilizer is from ken also...1/8 t / gallon...

i have added the drops to raise pH and it is now about 6.8 and 7 with fert...i have tested distilled water and spring water and, with fertilizer, with drops to raise pH tests about 6.8-7...i am using mason's twine for my wicks and have decreased them to 3 strands instead of the usual 6 strands...i am growing only mini's and semi-trailers...

what i realized yesterday, again, was that they are: 1) developing root rot (probably from the acid and the soil is too heavy?)...so i have added a super amount of perlite to the soil, which already has a lot of perlite in it...2)the plants are ok until i repot them!!!...so, today i repotted two into optimara soil combined with a lot of perlite we'll see how they do....3) i will continue to repot every 2-3 months

i will check the pH of the soil...thanks for how to do it...some of the violets are just struggling, poor plants, and some are actually beginning to grow nice centers on hunter's soil with perlite...

i've decided to work with them for a month and see how they do with the neutral pH water and ken's soil with perlite added...i will continue to use ken's fertilizer too, but i will correct the pH of the water to be about 6.8-7...

you are so right in stating that we need to find the weak spot...can you think of anything else?...i did google raising pH as per rosie's suggestion and found a lot of how to raise pH of the house water...i checked on amazon and did find a pitcher that produces neutral water, but i'm going to hold off on that...so, there...that is were i am with all this...it's taking an amazing amount of time and energy!! and keeps me from doing much of anything else...hopefully we will find that link, and figure out what is right...thanks for the support to all of you...i'll keep you posted...i am curious as to the pH of the soil, and will test that tomorrow...thanks again, sharon

Sharon - if your soil is in 6.3- - 6.8 range - it is passable. 6.6 is on the button with soil, water - too.

If the acidity is not the case - lets check other conditions. Temperature? Light? Do you have spots on your plants? Your well water - what is the parameter of solids.? If it around 150 ppm - fine - if more - may be filter is something you can look into. Heavily mineralized water is not good, though usually it comes with high pH, so you are probably OK. I am sure that you excluded it - but you do not have a water softener in a system?

Congratulations on your success!!!!! Rosie

There are always problems, if it is not pH, then there are pests and any other interesting things. Just do not give up and watch out. You see something off - investigate immediately. Only plastic plants are carefree.