Mixed pattern tile for uneven ceiling?
Our ceiling Is uneven in the bathroom and the tiler switched our subway tile to vertical For the last row. According to him, this disguises the slant more than a horizontal row would. I can’t decide if I can live with it. The grout will be bright white. To me, the slant isn’t noticeable this way, so do I live with mixed pattern tile or live with horizontal tile not cut evenly?
Comments (24)
HU-187528210
8 days agoSheridan Meltsner
8 days agoRelated Discussions
covering an uneven floor
Comments (6)You should ensure that whatever you put down does not have any areas that are "trip magnets" for customers or people working there...so that walking from one area to another involves crossing areas of different heights...even using the same flooring does not guarantee that there will be LEVEL walking... I taught in large high school before retiring and remodeling created one long hall where the concrete floor was merged from two halls previously and wall between was removed... there was slope which was not corrected. Some people (because of their normal stride lengths I guess) almost always found themselves catching their feet and almost tripping... Some people never had problem... the flooring used initially was like commercial rubber/vinyl tiles then they put down low nap commercial carpet-- which helped--but I don' think they ever poured a leveling layer of concrete to create a seamless base......See MoreUneven tile instalation
Comments (25)Did the installer start working with one box of tile at a time or did he open multiple boxes and mixed tiles from all the boxes? If he worked with one box at a time that can explain why you might have less lippage in one area vs the rest of the living room. Outlet stores carry tiles that did not pass quality inspection to be sold in a retail t ile shop. The quality of the tiles may vary from box to box. What the installer could have done is open multiple boxes and pick through the tiles and discard the ones that are excessively bowed. Doing that means some of the tiles will not be good to install and you end up having to discard some of the tiles which means waste and that defeats the purpose of purchasing the tile at an outlet store vs retail. Place some of the tiles on a table upside down and see if they rock when you push down on one corner. High quality tiles are completely flat because they are cut from a larger piece of tile. Tile tend to warp and bow during manufacturing. By cutting a piece of tile from a lager tile you get rid of the bowed corners and get a better flat smaller tile....See MoreShould I (or should I not) tile up to the ceiling in this kitchen?
Comments (5)I would not tile above lowest cabinet. Use the top of those as demarcation line. With mostly whites I would suggest glossy tile. TIP: figure out now what edging you will use for the herringbone at top and sides. I would probably order pencil tile to match your tile because a Trim like Schluter will have a metal edge which I don't think would look quite right with your kitchen. That is my take....See MoreUneven & Thick Grout
Comments (28)Can you explain what this special product is that you use to remove 100% silicone caulk without any residue? Caulking change of plain is due to movement not sealing capabilities. There are pool jacuzzis constructed every day without an ounce of caulk. I am not saying I don't use but you have to be open minded sometimes and disagree with guidelines. When showers were built as Beth describes it eliminates that movement in corners. Anybody who lives in the NE can see their 1930's 4x4 tile shower and there isn't an ounce of caulk used. Remember those guides are adapted to products being used ta that time. Today the majority of showers are constructed of cement board and that is why these guidelines were adapted. As for the caulk again what are we sealing? Tub to shower wall? Tub has 3/4 lip and you wall should be 1/2 up so where is the water going? Actually by using caulk you are sealing in any moisture that penetrates your grout and runs down your waterproofing and now has nowhere to go. Caulk fails at that joint often. If you think about it there should be a drainage system like used in plastic pans. We direct all the moisture back into the tub/pan and then seal it in? My theory is to use a caulking product that is easily repaired and applied. There i nobody that is going to argue 100% silicone caulking is as easy to replace vs a mixture based caulk. Caulk is going to fail so its kind of a wash as to when you do it. No argument here and I agree with following guidelines but sometimes thought can change those guidelines and we stop using 100 year old technology. As for the tile well also explain how much more you charge for waste and uncharge for installing that glass mosaic vs a porcelain/ceramic or even stone? To the original poster your bath is a tear out and YES listen to the advise given in regards to following guidelines they are there to protect you and your investment. Ask to see their work. Ask how they are going to finish corners and edges. Ask what they think acceptable slippage is. Ask exactly what products they are using including exact name brand. Make sure installer is involved with the tile chosen. Read Dragonfly and Creatives posts, they are educated and obviously in the industry. People have to stop thinking installing tiles can be done by anyone. When a installer can explain themselves as they do you can understand the education and experience required. My posts are simply to provoke thought not argue, well maybe a little....See Moreemp409
8 days agoSorry! If you click on the picture does it enlarge? It does for me. Let me see if I can add another pic.
PROBeth H. :
8 days agoemp409
8 days ago
Sammy
8 days agolast modified: 8 days agoemp409
8 days agoemp409
8 days agoeld6161
8 days agolast modified: 8 days agoSammy
8 days agolast modified: 8 days agoSammy- the more I stare at it the more it grows on me. A friend suggested putting a strip of my mosaic tile (will also be used in the niche) for The top row. I’m having trouble picturing that too. Thoughts?
Nope. This way looks MUCH better...and I’m a stickler about such things. 😉 You’ve seen a soldier course (i.e., a vertical row of brick or tile) used in brickwork, haven’t you? Contrary to what @eld6161 wrote, it’s absolutely an intentional design element, which has been used for hundreds of years.
Edit: What you have is a called a SAILOR course, not a soldier course. But I figured it more likely that you’ve seen/heard the latter design/term. It’s often found above windows and at the very top of brick-clad (or solid-brick) walls, among other places.
emp409
8 days agoemp409
8 days agoAJCN
8 days agoemp409
8 days agoAJCN- thanks for the feedback! I do think the tile guy has done an excellent job (to my untrained eye). I’ll get his number for sure!
niche will have white hex that has a blue border (vanity is blue). I was going to go with light gray grout but once I picked out my hex tile, I knew I needed white grout to ensure the blue popped. It’s unfortunate because I really don’t want to clean white grout all the time.My GC is recommending Tec White for the grout. He says no yellow in it.
emp409
8 days agoeld6161
7 days agoemp409
7 days ago
Beth Allen