Hi June

So I am the kitchen designer and no, I'm not a designer so I am kind of learning as I go. i have a great handyman/contractor who is skilled so he can help build support if that is possible after the fact rather than a requirement of a special cabinet build. I didn't know that I need different construction details to put on thicker cabinets. The outlets are hardwired, but island is not up yet so I don't think outlets should be a problem.

Thanks. I will. I was more or less asking for design aesthetics. The professionals will know about install and how to properly support requests. I was asking about opinions for thickness (looks, not install), what thickness people love and why and edges.

Far from an aesthetics decision. It’s structural at the core. You can’t do thicker counters unless you designed for it from the beginning. That’s not how this works. Stone guys are not going to tell you what you needed to know in order to plan this. They’re just going to tell you nope, we aren’t touching this, and move on. Hire a Kitchen Designer. You desperately needed one before you started the project. There will be lots of catch up.

You can stick to the regular thickness, it’ll probably be easier and IMO is more ‘classic’ looking.

And cheaper. Thanks.

So I went to a couple of fabricators to get pricing and look at edging. I like the eased edge (straight) best. One of the fabricators said he thought pencil edge would go best with my cabinets. I got varying information...a couple said that I don’t need any extra support with only a 12 inch overhang. They said I don’t need support even with the thicker slab. They talked about having 70% on cabinets, not having anyone sit on overhang etc.

What would I have done differently in ordering base cabinets to accommodate thicker on island. My contractor can put in those steel supports now or plywood before they come to measure if it is needed, correct?

Are they wrong when they say I don’t need supports since my overhang is not more than 12 inches?

There seemed like fabricators had different methods to making thicker island piece. One said that stone is underneath and one said there is plywood or something like that...

How thick do you want the island top to be?

I have to research more but off the top of my head I’m thinking 2 1/2 or 3. I understand what Joseph is saying that we could have adjusted the building of cabinets to custom build with lower drawers, but our cabinets are not that fancy so we would just live with working at the higher height by the extra couple of inches. They would miter the edge of quartz. I’m guessing my contractor would put plywood on top, but I’ll have to coordinate with him and the fabricator. I also get what Joseph is recommending with having a great designer from start to end, but I’m trying to get my dream kitchen without having the dream budget so I pick and choose in what areas I splurge and in what areas I cut. Custom cabinets and a fabulous designer were my areas to cut. I made standard cabinets work. Counters are an area I’m picking to splurge. So I appreciate the advise here, because I do know that I don’t know. But I also know that there are always ways to find a way that’s where you guys, research and skilled professionals come in. Be hopeful Joseph, and I’ll think of you if my quartz cracks in the middle LOL

Mine is 2 1/2 inches (mitered) with plywood support underneath. I also only have a 12” overhang, that’s all I could do because of space limitations but it has been fine for our use. The perimeter is regular thickness.

Plywood is not support. It compensates for the thickness of a built up edge only. 3cm natural stone requires steel supports past 10”. 2cm, which is usually built up to a 4 cm edge, and uses plywood as a thickness compensator for the body, requires steel supports for over 6”. Quartz is similar, but different tolerances. You can’t design an island without missing puzzle pieces.

The cabinets must be built to attach those steel supports to, and have them work. You cannot attach steel to a 1/8” cabinet back and expect it to do anything. You can not use box channel supports with full overlay cabibets on the rear without shorter doors that have a face frame reveal above, to be notched for the channel.

There isn’t enough space or enough time to go through the dozens of hypotheticals when there are zero concrete diagrams shared. You need an experienced pro with access to much more info than is present here, to design this.

KR, I love it. That’s exactly what I want, thicker in the island. I can also only have a 12 inch over hand due to space. It looks beautiful are you happy you spent the extra $ money on that?

Yes Celadon, I understand that the plywood is too make up for the space so edge hits in correct space. So what you’re saying though is if I go out on the overhang of more that 10 inches (not the 12 inches that I was told) then I will also need my contractor to add those steel beams across (my island is 36x84) so I’m guessing like 3 steal supports from front of cabinet to back. And again, I appreciate the guidance.

So I went to several stone places and talked to the fabricators and they all stated that since I only have a 12 inch overhang, I don't need supports. They also said that if I use the wide mitered edge on the island that I don't need it as well. My contractor said that since I'm not using legs, he can just put the steel brackets across for extra support if I prefer even though they all said it would be fine because I think 70% or more supported is the magic number. Thank you for all the information, I was better prepared when I talked with fabricators. I also was able to see the edges and I prefer the eased.

Yes, I am very happy I spent the extra money. It just makes it look so much better. I also did it for my bar which is a waterfall. I get so many compliments on it. I’m not a contractor so I can’t speak to exactly how it’s supported but it’s mitered and built over the plywood underneath.

Here’s my bar

Looks great!