We need to know where you live and what kind of grass you have.

In general, though, stop using weed and feed products. Your husband has the right conclusion but the wrong reason. Instead, wait until mid April and spray your lawn with Weed-b-Gon. Give that 3 weeks to fully kill the weeds and see what you have left. If you have a St Augustine lawn, then don't use Weed-b-Gon. Need to know what grass you have.

What is your watering program? How often and for how long do you water? Weed seeds need continual moisture to sprout, so once you get the watering right, you should have fewer weeds.

How are you mowing? Most lawns should be mowed at the mower's highest setting. The exceptions are bermuda, creeping bentgrass, and centipede. Tall grasses are more dense and help to keep weeds out of the lawn.

He beat me to it. :-)

I live one hour drive north of Atlanta GA.

I have Bermudagrass.

Since HOA hires the lawn care crew cutting every two weeks while the grass is only active, I'm not sure the height they cut.

I normally do not water my lawn unless something needs to be done with water.

Last two years, I had a lot of clovers, chickweeds, and henbits in spring, plus all sorts of summer weeds. This spring I don't see any clovers or chickweeds, but 70% now are annual bluegrass and 28% of hen bits (always have had Henbit problem wherever I live), 2% of other weeds.

Aside from using a lot of weed&feed products in the past 3 years, I would like to know particularly WHY "Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer - Crabgrass Preventer, Pre Emergent Weed Control for Lawns" and "Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard Fall Weed & Feed" I used throughout fall 2021 did NOT prevent any weeds at all. More than 1/2 of my lawn are now covered with mostly Annual bluegrass and some henbit.

Because I used too many different weed&feed in the past, I don't quite remember what exactly the products I used, yet I can remember those I just used during the fall. In early March, I also just spreader "Scotts Turf Builder Triple Action," thinking it being pre-emergent surprising summer weeds while killing current spring weeds. Although I cannot tell if the pre-emergent part of it will work or not, the killing current weeds has not worked at all. Narrowing this way may help you to help me to figure out what's wrong with what I did.

Such is the nature of weed n feed product. By and large people are unhappy with them for the same reasons you are. They're not that good a product, and they are hard to use properly. It's almost a 2-person job to apply them right. Then need to go onto wet grass. If you water and then apply, by the time you get to the end, the grass is not wet enough for the product to stick.

If you want to have a normal looking lawn, you absolutely have to commit to a watering program. Are you willing to water one full inch all at one time on a weekly basis throughout the summer?

Yes, if watering helps

Watering, properly, is the single most important part of having a nice lawn. Here is the GENERAL idea. You can adjust this, but it only needs a tweak for your situation. There are too many elements to watering for the brain to factor, so I've boiled it down to what seems to be the most important - daily high temperature. Here are the "rules" for bermuda management.

Watering: Water deeply and infrequently. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. You can measure 1 inch by placing several tuna or cat food cans around the yard and turning on the sprinkler. I like the modern oscillator sprinklers, because they throw water, evenly, over a very large area. With my oscillator sprinkler on full sweep it takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your sprinkler, your hose, and your water pressure all combine to give you a different time. Whatever the time is, memorize that and water for that time every time you water. Infrequent watering means you NEVER water every day. With temps below 70 degrees F, deep water once every month. With temps between 70 and 80, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps between 80 and 90, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 90s, deep water every week. With temps above 100, deep water once every 4-5 days.

Mowing: Mulch mow bermuda at or near the lowest setting on your mower every week. Sometimes in the spring when it is growing very fast you may need to mow 2x per week.

Fertilizing: You can start to fertilize bermuda after the second mowing of the year. The reason you wait is to be sure you are fertilizing active roots and not dormant roots. Bermuda can take a high nitrogen, fast release, fertilizer every 4-6 weeks for best appearance. Don't use weed and feed. For anyone else reading this, this is the fertilizer plan only for bermuda. This will kill other grasses. Please let me know if you would like to fertilize with organic products. I would urge you to use organic fertilizer for at least one application per year even if you do not fertilizer every month.

Weed control: In mid April spot spray the weeds with Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer. Mist the weeds - these products are not soil drenches. Give this three weeks to fully kill the weeds. Then in mid May, write back here to tell us how it looks and ask more questions.

Following the above rules will give you a very nice bermuda lawn.

Thank you so very much dchall_san_antonio. It's very helpful information you've given