Photos didn't load. You will need to show us/tell us the BRAND of the finish. When was the LAST COAT applied? When was the FIRST DAY you allowed 'floor-destroyer' on the floor? When was the LAST time you allowed 'floor-destroyer'?

When loading pics you MUST allow the photos to finish loading before you do ANYTHING ELSE with your device (could be 5-15 minutes....not kidding...people complain of the upload times all the time on Houzz).

Tell us more. The most important things:

1. Brand of finish and FINAL day of application (number of coats would be nice to know)

2. First day 'doggy floor destroyer' was allowed on the floor

Loba Supra 2k matte. From what I understand they did two coats of “other poly”. One coat of the Supra. Final day of application 4/9. First day of dog destroyer 4/17. They told me to wait 5-7 days before dog. I waited 2 weeks. Oh and btw, I just gently scratched it with my finger nail and the poly came right off.

"they did two coats of “other poly”. One coat of the Supra."

Probably going to come back to incompatible finishes. You typically cannot mix brands like that. You need to find out what the "other poly" was.

Your "scratches" in the second picture look more like indentations. No surface finish will support the pressure from dog nails and protect wood from indentation.

It sounds like you have more than a few issues. First off, Loba Invisible is the only one that comes in 'matte' with the AT line. It appears there are some aesthetic issues with this product. Because the INVISIBLE matte is SOOOO matte, it 'polishes' when things 'slide' across it. Like a rigid dog nail + running and turning. Have you ever 'polished' up a car's finish? You are BUFFING the area to bring out MORE SHINE. Right?

Now imagine the dog's nails as TINY polishing rags. Each time they put pressure on the finish, that LITTLE strip gets SUPER GLOSSY. Ahhhhhh....that's when it 'looks' like scratches (because they are linear and VERY narrow) but they are NOT. They are GLOSSY buffed out sections of the matte finish. I'm seeing TONS of those.

In your middle pic I'm seeing indents (such as Timothy points out). Those are pressure issues. The finish is NOT damaged...but the wood underneath has been compressed = permanent. The finish is doing it's job (staying on the wood = protects from water).

The middle picture has a WHITE SPOT that concerns me. This should NOT be there. It *could be an indication of adhesion failure. The fact that you can scrape off the finish with a finger nail is VERY concerning. Again, this could be adhesion failure (one layer of finish is NOT grabbing the other).

Now my last question: when was the first WET/damp cleaning of this floor? What was used to clean it? Water? Hardwood floor cleaner? Mop/duster/vacuum?

In a nut shell you have TWO concerns regarding adhesion failure (very concerning and must be addressed by Firm who did the work) and many 'polishing' issues with a MATTE finish.

My personal option would have been:

1. First Coat WS EasyPrime (for white oak)

2. Coat of Loba 2K Supra AT - gloss

2.B. additional coat of Loba 2K Supra AT - Gloss

3. Coat of Loba 2K Supra AT - Satin

Satin is as low as I go for low-gloss. It is MUCH easier to live with than ANY matte I've seen. And the 2K supra AT = SUPER TOUGH when used with THREE COATS of the actual finish.

Three coats of Loba 2K Supra AT = $1-$2/sf MORE than what you *probably paid. Just be aware of that. To upgrade to three coats may require a snick more money.

But the ADHESION FAILURE of your finish RIGHT NOW is going to be dealt with by the refinisher....at his/her own costs. The way to fix this = remove all finishes and start again with raw wood.

They used Loba easy finish was 1 and 2nd coat, 3rd loba supra matte. The stain is weathered oak by dura seal.

I have the Loba rep coming tomorrow to take a look at it

Thoughts?

Also, the first time I cleaned the floor was yesterday - more than 3 weeks after with broom and the slightly damp mop with small amount of water only. That’s when I noticed the scratches, when I went to clean the floor for the first time.

And thank you for the input!

WS EasyFinish is, in a word, cheap cr@p (sure...it's LOBA'S cheap stuff, but compared to the AT lines it is nothing to write home about). And they used a DuraSeal stain....oh now we have some fun....(tongue firmly in cheek).

For me, the WS EasyFinish is their cheap cheap stuff. They tried to go as cheap as possible for Loba. They did that twice. Then they tried to tell you the toughest finish on the top is all that is needed.

Again, I'm not fond of matte nor super matte. Almost ALL of them cause this 'shiny streaks' you are showing. It drives homeowners NUTS. There is NO WAY around these shiny streaks (dog claw polishing) if you use matte finishes. You either DEAL with the issue (ie. live with it and hold your tongue) or you change it.

The adhesion issues and the DURASEAL stain on your wood is the WAY OUT of this issue. By *potentially messing up, your refinisher has accidently given you a 'free be'. A 'get out of jail free' card.

How much did you pay per square foot? If you don't know the square footage price, then tell us the square footage and the total job cost. We can take it from there.

The HIGH END Loba AT/Bona HD finishes = $7/sf or so. The option you got should be much closer to the $5/sf (or less) option.

Thx! Can u explain more why the duraseal is potentially the issue?

The rule of thumb in the finishing industry is "Do NOT mix your finishes". That is to say, do NOT use different products from two different manufacturers. They are NOT 'meant' (ie. designed) to go together.

A lot of people have 'gotten' away with DuraSeal/Minwax stains under water based finishes...so they think it works 100% of the time. They are wrong. Yes it worked in the past...but EVENTUALLY (ahem...law of averages, the bell curve, statistics, call it what you want) it WILL fail.

Failure at the 'bottom' layer is when adhesion issues occur. The finish does not 'stick' to the wood. This happens for many reasons...one of which being 'contamination'. Technically contamination can include 'other people's stuff' sitting on the floor (like DuraSeal stain).

One of the other main reasons finish fail = the stain application had TWO coats instead of just one. This is a VERY common mistake. This situation causes MORE adhesion failures than the 'mixing' the chemicals.

If you are not getting the response you want from the refinisher (who did you use??? a company or a stand alone refinisher?) then go ahead and have your floors inspected by an NWFA Certified Wood Flooring Inspector.

www.nwfa.org

You can find them using your zip/postal code.