Software
Houzz Logo Print
webuser_616993228

Help my butcher block countertop is cracking

5 years ago

My contractor used liquid nail to secure my kitchen island butcher block countertop and less than 3 months later the butcher block is cracking and shifting. Is there a way to save it???
Attached are the pics of the cracks and then two pic taken when the job was done.

Comments (21)

  • 5 years ago

    Whose butcherblock is it? Have you contacted the manufacturer or asked your contractor to? That is not caused by the liquid nails possible unless there was a solid top to your cabinets and he did a full spread with the liquid nails and even then I doubt it was the cause.

  • 5 years ago

    I will contact the manufacturer. It doesn't have a solid top on the cabinet its a pony wall with cabinet in fornt and spot of a dishwasher that hasn't arrived yet

  • 5 years ago

    Opps and a spot for the dishwasher

  • 5 years ago

    Thank you for the information. Does this mean I won't be able to save this countertop?

  • 5 years ago

    This looks like what happens to wood floors when the humidity in the house is very low. The wood shrinks some. Not sure if that is the problem.

  • 5 years ago

    It was white oak butcher block that I had to seal several times before my contractor installed it.

  • 5 years ago

    Who was the manufacturer? Is it solid white oak of a laminated oak veneer?

  • 5 years ago

    And yes the cap ends were added because the butcher block only came in 8 or 10 foot by 2 foot and had to be cut to 6ft and then two were connected to make the full top. However, the length was cut wrong and the end pieces were added to extend to the proper length for the structure.

  • 5 years ago

    But where did it come from? Was it ordered from a countertop place or Home Depot or John Boos or did your contractor fabricate it in his shop or?

  • 5 years ago

    The original blocks came from a lumber company here in town and were cut and modified by my cabinet builder.

  • 5 years ago
    last modified: 5 years ago

    Again, who is the manufacturer? Are they solid oak or laminated veneer? Without more info it will be impossible tell you if they can be saved or not.

  • 5 years ago

    They are solid oak. I am looking for the name of the manufacturer

  • 5 years ago

    OK, solid oak is good. What is the humidity in your home? Do you have a HVAC system that is running? As mentioned above this typically happens to flooring when the home is too dry. But the first pic appears to be an end cap that is coming off which leads me to believe that there may be more to this.

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    Doesn't appear that the top is 'cracking'. It appears that all the seams are opening. That's a big difference.


    Get in touch with the fabricator/s. It's possible that the seams can be glued and clamped again. However, you may have to figure out a way to keep the heat and humidity from the DW from affecting the top in the future.

  • 5 years ago

    Yes I have hvac. The cracks are not just at the end cap they started in the center of the island. The one that is most noticeable is at the wnd because it push out

  • 5 years ago

    Are you noticing any crowning or cupping?

  • 5 years ago

    No crowning or cupping,

  • 5 years ago

    DW is not installed yet.. it was put on back order, so no humidity from that yet. But I will keep an eye on it

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    The only fix for that is rip and reglue. Biscuits and Titebond 2.

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    Wood movement 101: Wood moves in thickness and width* but negligibly in length. The breadboad ends and the liquid nails are preventing it from contracting so something's gotta give.


    You cannot stop wood movement but you have to accommodate it.


    *technically, radial and tangential movement.


    https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wood-movement-101/