Think about:

The view you want out the windows.

The view you want others to have into the windows.

The type of things you will have on the countertops.

The amount of light you want to enter the room.

The cost of windows.

@Mark Bischak, Architect

what about how close to the countertop can the windows be?

I have seen countertops act as the window's sill.

@Mark Bischak, Architect

Thanks, I do remember seeing them in kitchens. I guess I don't want it to look funny with the 30" cabinets and the 36" cabinets.

Do you have lifts for your machines? Where and how will they be integrated?

@latifolia

No, I do not have lifts for the machines. I know I probably should but the sewing machine will be moved from one place to another.

I have a sewing room with windows on the SE and S sides of the room; Glare really bothers me so I have semi=sheer curtains over the window (there isn't a good view either). Unless you have a really great view I would have the bottom of my windows around 12" above the countertop (I have lots of 'stuff' on the counters so no point in having a window with the lower edge right at the counter.

@new-beginning

Thanks, I have a lot to think about. I was thinking about corner windows but I am not sure how that will work. they are going to be Low E3 windows.

@Mark Bischak, Architect

what do you think of corner windows? Someone (quilting group) suggested them in the northwest corner (on each side) and northeast corner (on each side).

EDIT: After looking at photos with corner windows most of them were modern designs and not sure that would work with my house. Thanks

It depends upon the things I mentioned above and the style of the house and what it will look like from the outside.

My previous sewing room had large windows facing west, which was too bright and not great. Now I have two decent windows facing north - a big improvement.

I have my full-sized machine in a sewing cabinet with lift. Can't say enough good things about that in terms of reduced neck and shoulder strain. If you quilt, it's much easier to have the part under the needle at worktop level. I keep a class and travel machine in the closet.

My cutting table is higher. Can't measure because I'm not there right now, but better for back strain.

@latifolia

Thanks, I know about the west sun but I was hoping that since there is a cover porch 13' deep with the dining room on the other side that will help block the sun. I want at least one window where my ironing station is located.

I know having my sewing machine is not at a great height and I can't cut into the countertop. I thought maybe I could have something made that rolls under the countertop where the leg opening is located but I don't know if that would work either. My machine is very heavy and it is not going to be easy to move. In fact, last Friday my back went out and I can't do anything.

My cutting Island is cabinets back to back like a kitchen island is 7'7" x 3'7" and 36" high. I keep changing the sizes of the cabinets so it could end up 8' x 4'.

I am concerned about the leg space for my serger (39"), laptop (40"), and sewing machine (42". I have a 24" wide cabinet on the left side of the serger and could make that 21" wide. I will make some decisions when I know the exact space when we order cabinets.

This is an old layout but I wanted to show you what I was talking about with the windows on the west side of the sewing room. That is a covered porch so hopefully, that would help block the west sun.

Thanks,

Sue

i would consider no windows looking in from the covered porch from a design of the porch perspective. You won't recieve much light from those compared to your other windows. . . and I'd also include led cans over all the counters and island on dimmers. 450+ lumens at the counter for task lighting. Natural lighting is nice but inconsistent for working.

Since you are building your sewing room from scratch, why can't you cut into your countertops? Just have them fabricated the way you need them for your machine(s). And buy yourself a machine lift. It's a small expense in the total scheme of things.

Regarding windows:

• artist studios have north-facing windows if possible
• consider how much wall-storage you want to have. Upper cupboards can be very convenient over a work surface. And they provide a spot to mount task lighting
• do you need a quilt wall for laying out quilts?
• will this part of the house be seen from the street? If so, the arrangement of the windows must (instead of just should) look good from the outside. Otherwise, you'll have trouble selling your house when the time comes. Plus, you'll come home to a weird-looking facade every day. Get some outside elevation drawings of your build. Draw a nice-looking arrangement of windows on it. Then make minor adjustments to make the inside work well with the windows you've drawn. Repeat until both outside and inside work.

Building a house or even just a room is a big, expensive undertaking. Don't compromise on the custom details that make the undertaking worth doing.

houzz lost my first reply… sigh…

I looked at your room for a while, and I’ll second other commenters - the windows are too low (Do a single window east wall centered to match the bathroom elevation). Ditto to the design wall area (if needed)

Place the overhead lighting above your counters and island table so that shadows aren’t cast over your work.

you mentioned not being able to cut into the countertops. what is your plan for the outlets and the electrical and pedal cords for your machines? (& the iron as well)

I don’t see a closet or tall cabinet for fabric storage, I assume you have a stash. :)

personally, I would forgo one counter run and get a nice sewing table with a lift. Cords to the back and pedal cord through designed gap, tidy and out of the way. What is reason you need to move your machine around?

If you can share the type of sewing and machines you use I’ll bet you get lots of helpful ideas. You mentioned a quilting group, is your sewing machine both your piecing machine

and quilting machine? My thought is you don’t have enough room to quilt (behind the machine) on the counter if that’s the case.

I'm thinking reduce the number of built-in cabinets and buy a suite of sewing furniture: machine table with lift, cutting table, serger table. Look at Koala and Kangaroo, for example. It won't cost any more, and a more flexible room is probably better for resale.

I have a NW facing sewing studio/office. I still use a curtain to stop sun fading. Here are pictures of my furniture and floor plan of my space. Cutting table pic is in my previous studio

Wall Control Board: It's metal and does a wonderful job of keeping my rulers where I can see them. Metal pegboard never wears out ( no splinters) and is easy to clean. Wall Control Baskets :Home Depot Pegboard Baskets

Make a storage plan for your space

Design Wall

Lois Hallock of Clearview Designs Her book and advice makes my sewing space/office work efficiently

Do you have enough dark storage for fabric and completed quilts?

Antifatigue mats at the cutting table and pressing station.

Flooring that is easy to clean i.e. tile, laminate or wood floors.

Shelves above the sewing machine and serger for thread.

Dust proof storage for thread and fabric.

Storage for patterns and templates

Storage for Quilt books

Cutting Table 3 Photo by Ocotilla | Photobucket · More Info

Office/Studio Furniture · More Info

Office/Studio Furniture · More Info

Office/Studio Furniture · More Info

With your porch, I think your west facing windows will be fine.

@Jennifer K

Since you are building your sewing room from scratch, why can't you cut into your countertops? Just have them fabricated the way you need them for your machine(s). And buy yourself a machine lift. It's a small expense in the total scheme of things.

The problem with this idea is I position my machine at the edge of the countertop so I am close to my machine. My kitchen designer suggested that I get an appliance lift for my KitchenAid mixer but a friend has one and she said it is too difficult for her to operate. I don't know if that would even be possible to use something like that unless you can set it at different heights.

Thanks

@HighDesert Now Z 6b was 7a

Design wall is 8' 10" south wall.

outlets are going to be on the walls above the counters.

I don't want to cut into the countertops--I sew with my machine at the front edge of my countertop. I don't need to move my sewing machine unless I want to watch the wildlife while I am sewing.

Sewing machine Pfaff Performance Icon.

Serger Babylock Triumph

I don't have access to look at sewing machine cabinets and I am not fond of them.

Thanks for your suggestions.

@latifolia

Thanks,

I don't have access to look at sewing machine cabinets and I am not fond of them. I think they take up too much room.

Your studio is 16x20! I found my cutting table online, bought it sight unseen. It folds up nice and small and has good storage.

https://arrowsewing.com/shop/kangaroo/kookaburra-cutting-table/

Do yourself a favor and cruise the Internet. Many machine dealers have cabinets because you need an insert specifically for your model machine. If you have a large embroidery machine, they have special large cabinets with heavy duty lifts, bith pneumatic and electric.

Just chiming in to say that you will have an amazing sewing space. Mine is currently set up in my cellar; sometimes I bring it up to my living room (that’s where I have to cut any fabric- directly on the living room floor).

@ocotillaks

Thanks for your suggestions and photos. Right now my sewing room--that I cannot get down to use is in our walkout basement and NO windows. I do want some windows in my sewing room in front of the ironing station, serger, laptop, and sewing machine.

My design wall is 8' 10" on the south wall.

Walk-in closet--large enough to hold my hundreds of bolts of fabrics, tall storage cabinet for my quilts. I make donation quilts for cancer patients.

2 cabinets (roll-out drawers) on each end of my cutting island for storage of the thread that I sell.

Pegboard at the end of the island for rulers

Drawers on the left side of the serger for thread and supplies. Drawers to the right of the sewing machine for thread and supplies. If I put the sewing machine on the north wall that is not going to give any room for the weight of the quilt as I am sewing. If I put it on the east wall--at least I will have some space. I know it is not perfect but I think it is better than nothing. I was just worried about the windows and pretty much had everything else worked out--At least that is what I thought.

I don't know about metal pegboard--I will have to look that up.

My ironing station will be on casters. Right now it sits on top of 2 clear three-drawer towers (with rollers). I am hoping to get some tall drawers from the cabinet line to match the rest of the cabinets.

Storage for quilt books and notebooks and containers for scrapes on the east side of the cutting island.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

@cpartist

Thanks

@Sarah

Thanks

I would find your 30 inch high countertops too high for comfortable sewing. My previous sewing space had the countertops at 27 inches high. One machine was in a cabinet set into the counter and the other space had a flat shelf under the counter and I had different inserts cut so I could drop in my freearm machine or my serger. That space was fitted out with a reclaimed set of upper cabinets and a single three drawer base cabinet. The undercounter space was mostly open so I could roll my chair around or have space for someone to sit beside me. We cut the toekick base off a 30 inch high cabinet so it was short enough to fit underneath the counter. My chair seat is 19 inches so there isn't much extra space under the counter but I liked having the work surface low enough for me as I am 5 feet tall.

My current space is still in rough form. I ended up with a small nook originally planned for my husband's electronics. One feature I like is the light switch for the can lights also controls the outlet for my serger. I don't have to remember to turn the machine off. At first, it was my ironing spot but I had to rearrange the space to add a large work table when DD moved in with her machines.

Planning a sewing room is quite a task and it sounds like your space will be very nice

@Lyndee Lee

You are right about the height. In my present sewing room, they are lower. The guy that put the cabinets in (2 stages) must have cut off part of the toe-kick to make the second stage work. If I want to do the 27" high cabinets, they will cost twice as much money.

I am 5' 6 1/2" and right now when I can sew--I use our dining room table which is not the best but if I try to get something to work for at least my sewing machine in my new room, I will have to rearrange everything.

Consider a sit/stand work table that you can raise and lower to your exact needs, electric or manual, rather than static height counters. Some come with wheels that lock unlock for moving.

I looked up your Pfaff, wow she’s a beauty.

Last push for a sewing cabinet: The ergonomics when the machine surface is flush with the counter top are so much better. There are corner units that could go in the NE corner and you could look both directions outside 😉

I inquired about the outlets because I felt you are creating such a enviable room, I was trying to think of a way to hide cords, especially the pedal cord which will probably drape across a cabinet front. maybe the designer has some suggestions.

I hope you have fun with the project, we won’t measure your 1/4” seams and we won’t measure the windows either, lol.

@HighDesert Now Z 6b was 7a

Thanks, I know what you are saying. Right now I have a hole in my countertop downstairs and the problem is--I can't get underneath to plug anything in. I was going to ask the kitchen designer about the lift for appliances but I am not sure that would work either.

I want to thank you for not being the 1/4" seam police and the windows too.

The windows in the "Study/Bedroom are two 3' w x 6' h, and I think they are too close to the floor. In the dining room, there are 7 windows 3' x 6'. I would like to make all of them a little bit shorter but I don't want to mess up my view from the dining room (Love watching the Antelope). Maybe I could make the windows on the west side and east side the same height.

Please ignore thr dirty windows- this is just to give you an idea. We have 9ft ceilings, 36” cabinets/countertops. We have 54 x 20” windows. There is about 6 inches between bottom of windows and the countetop and about 12” above the windows. If you look closely you can see we handled the 6” area differently on all sides (brick backsplash, quartz backsplash, and no backsplash- this detail DROVE ME CRAZY, but since you’re not talking about a kitchen, I think you’ll have an easier time with that.) Since you have ceilings that are a foot taller than mine, I’d suggest making your windows taller. It looks like you will have crown which we do not, but even so, I think you could get away with at least 6” taller.

@M R

Thanks--I love your windows. The layout that I have posted shows Crown molding but that is just because I could not get it out of my layout. All windows are 8' high to match all of the doors and doorways--set at 8'.

For the 36" high cabinets I thought about doing the outlets sideways. Do you have some going up and down and sideways?

What is your flooring? I thought I might like a stone look for flooring but can't find anything that I like.

I was so set on a Maple cabinet color called Nutmeg--but of course--it is discontinued. First I wanted Natural Maple but some of the ones I have downstairs (no windows) have turned yellow and I don't like that. My plan layout was set when I wanted Natural Maple cabinets. I have oak and painted cabinets right now and do not want either one of those so my choices are getting slim.

This is what the dining room windows look like. These windows are 3' w x 6' h. If my math is right--there is 24" above the windows and 24" below the windows for balance--maybe I should keep them that way. I still want to change the size of the windows in the Study/Bedroom. I think they are two 3' w x 6' h. I don't think we need windows that low in there if it would ever be used as a bedroom. My Laundry Room is on the west wall too but I can't go that low for that window.

Thanks for sharing your photos.

Did you have any issues with installation of paradigm floors? We are thinking of ordering those!!