Engineered flooring install?

5 years ago

We bought Anderson by Shaw 3/8" thick, Kupay Casitablanca, Mixed (3", 5", and 7" widths) in MONTERREY GREY (a dark walnut color). My installation choice will be nail down (because it is over the garage and the space is so big. Area is NW Georgia and the humidity is pretty high most of the time. We keep our house cool too).

It will be installed in a living room, kitchen, and dining room (all above the garage) and in a hallway (above second story living space). Pretty open floorplan, where flooring will continue from one outside wall to the opposite outside wall at some locations. Subfloor is 3/4" plywood. Baseboards are intact and carpet has been removed.

I have watched dozens of videos, read the manufactures installation instructions, and read many forum posts. I still have some questions...

I do not want to add shoe molding/quarter round to the bottom of my baseboards around the new flooring. So... can we just undercut the baseboards and slide the flooring underneath to create the expansion gap? I really don't want to remove the baseboards, since we took a lot of time installing them 7 years ago (they are about 8" tall).

Featured Answer

James

5 years ago

Dont undercut the baseboards and try to slide under. The final result will look very unprofessional. Take off baseboard and install after. … Or just do Shoe molding… it looks good and is standard installation in GA. Also, glue the floor in addition to nailing. It Will be a mistake to only nail.

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Comments (12)

PRO
G & S Floor Service
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Yes, you can undercut the baseboards and trim. It's a little more tricky to install the final row, but doable. You can use a multi-tool, becareful not to cut any wires or pipes behind the wall.
Timothy Winzell
5 years ago
Undercutting the base uniformly will be tough. Fitting the boards isn't easy but it's easier when nailing rather than gluing.
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3onthetree
5 years ago
+1 on extremely difficult, most likely not possible to get a good, straight, clean cut on the baseboard. Especially as DIY, and certainly not with an oscillating tool. There are slight undulations in the floor over a long expanse, which the engineered hardwood may or may not follow, but the jamb saw surely will. The base is probably 3/4" thick stock if they are 8" high, making it less forgiving. You don't want a caulk line at the base/floor transition.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
5 years ago
If, I had to undercut baseboards. I would choose a multi-tool over a craig saw. Any imperfection will cause large over cuts with a craig saw.

Also, I would do a tight fit install, if, clients do not want to remove baseboards.
kindasimpl thanked G & S Floor Service
kindasimpl
Original Author
5 years ago
G&S Floor Service - What does tight fit install mean? Just fit directly up to the baseboards and not leave an expansion gap?
PRO
G & S Floor Service
5 years ago
Yes, a relief angle needs to be cut in to allow expansion. Square cuts will cause the floor to buckle.
3onthetree
5 years ago
You mean Crain, or Kreg?

With a jamb saw (e.g. Crain) at least you can lay a long thickness down to try and compensate for undulations in the floor, as a guide to slide the jamb saw on. But either tool, if the OP is DIYing it the oscillating will be choppy, and jamb saws are pretty dangerous.
PRO
G & S Floor Service
5 years ago
Lol, yes Crain, my jamb saw have been collectibg dust for about ten years now. damn thing is loud. i have cut a few wires that was right behnd baseaboards.
kindasimpl
Original Author
5 years ago
I found this video today and I'm really considering it..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htYSZE6_H08
3onthetree
5 years ago
That's the jamb saw (undercut) I'm talking about. If you lay a long board parallel to the baseboard for the saw to slide over (rather than attaching a skate to the saw) it may have less undulations.

They are pricey.
Chessie
5 years ago
While the rigged up jamb saw is a cool idea, honestly I would prefer qtr round or shoe mold. I think the finished look is much nicer.