Help! How to correct wood stain!

4 years ago

Hi! I had cabinets built for my living room and they started the install Wednesday. The countertop and open shelves are wood and were supposed to closely match my stair rail and laminate floor. Problem is the stain used is way too red and they have already installed the upper cabinets on top of it.

I read about PolyShades but lacquer was used, so it’s not recommended.

Possibly a gel stain?

The builder suggested cuting in a oak skin/veneer, but I am concerned how the edges will line up with the upper boxes.

What is the best option?

Am I crazy, will it be close enough if we get the open shelves and the nosing to be a better match?

Attached are pictures of my flooring next to the countertop, and the flooring next to my stair rail. As well as my crappy pencil drawing and how far we’ve gotten with the build.

Featured Answer

PRO

PPF.

4 years ago

I cannot imagine trying to fix this without replacing the top. From looking at the workmanship, I don't see how adding anything to the top without removing the uppers will be successful.

Maybe it's time to get your friend involved.

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Comments (6)

PRO
PPF.
4 years ago
What is the best option?

What did your written contract say?

Have the cabinetmaker redo the top. It's obviously not even close to matching.
texmax13
Original Author
4 years ago
@PPF. although the cabinetmaker is a pro, he happens to be my friends dad and I don’t have a written contract. Do you think his idea to cut veneer on top of this will work or will it look like a puzzle piece disaster? I’m panicking, but also trying to be polite because he’s my friends dad.
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PRO
PPF.
4 years ago
Suggest he purchase solid oak and use that in place of the plywood for a new countertop.

One continuous piece to run across the front, then several more about 10' long for the other exposed part -- no butt joints allowed.

Have him stain a piece and get your approval.

Lacquer is a poor finish for a countertop. Ask him about what he can do instead.

I'd also be unhappy with the exposed fasteners and what looks like a gap where the bottom and side meet.

They also should have their final finish applied prior to installing the countertop and uppers.

Here is a computer model showing one of the shelf units. Note how there is no face frame.

Look at your first image above and notice how the left side is a single thickness, probably 3/4" and how the face frame overhangs appear to differ on each side.

I'd suggest something similar to what I show, where one side is thickened, and the opposite side does not overlap. This lets the shelves extend all the way forward instead of being behind the face frame.
klem1
4 years ago
What you are wanting is a challenge for shilled finishers with eyes and hands on. To expect that anyone is capiable from two states away is wishful at best. I can't tell you what to do but I can tell you Poly Shades will only make it worse.
texmax13
Original Author
4 years ago
@PPF.I think the face frame overhang differs on each side because there will be large cabinet doors over the larger opening? He is definately not finished with the install. I dream of a solid oak countertop and shelves, but I don’t think it’s within my budget. I should probably add this is a crappy little starter home and I’m doing these because we have a massive lack of storage. I am not expecting high end, but I am expecting what I was promised which was a close match on the ”wood”. He didn’t give me the option of removing the top and redoing the countertop; only to cut in a piecw of oak veneer over the top. Am I better off taking him up on that or sticking with this nightmare red?