Look at the assembly instructions. Note how the bottom panel is attached to the sides; you would cut off the pre-drilled holes for the metal pegs and dowels. Note how the back panel is slid in; you would cut off the slots in the three panels. There's a metal piece that fits across the backs of the slide panels; you would cut off the slots cut in the wood for those as well as the holes for the clips that attach the cabinet to the wall. Would the distance between the remaining two vertical arrays of holes support the drawers? Who knows?

I have all of my cabinets, so I stopped paying attention to their supply chain issues- can you get upper cabinets? The only difference is lowers have metal bars instead of a solid top.

Rip it down and drill the holes. Not a big deal at all. I've done it.

What is the 15" being used for that you are not able to use the 24"? Can you use a 12" upper with added toe kick instead?

I’m with joe- not a problem. Use upper cabinets if that’s an option, but if not 24” base cabinets will work. The front holes will be correct when installing drawers, just use 3/4 inch wood screws for the back of the drawer hardware (instead of trying to drill 5mm holes)

​​​Thank you all for the feedback. Wdccruise, I didn't even think about looking at the assembly instructions! Thank you for the thorough response. Lorraine and Port of Indecision, uppers is another suggestion I hadn't considered. But…they're out of stock too. Lorraine, I am putting cabinets in a butlers pantry and the depth from the wall to the door opening is 19". Joseph Corlett and Hallett & Co, would you just accept losing the cam bolt connections and fasten them together with nails and wood glue? This area won't see the same abuse a kitchen would.

Yes- though I would use a 3” deck screw. The base of the cabinet doesn’t do much especially if you are putting drawers in the cabinet. Attach a cleat to the wall under the base cabinets if you feel you need extra support (this is how the old base cabinets went in anyhow, I still think it’s easier to level the cleat, drop the boxes, and only adjust front feet)

"Attach a cleat to the wall under the base cabinets if you feel you need extra support"

The old IKEA AKRUM cabinet system used the suspension rail only for upper cabinets. The SEKTION system uses the suspension rail for both upper and base cabinets to support and align cabinets with those adjacent.

AW TY Dana. Maybe try other cabinets with Ikea like Havsta which is 14 5/8 deep for instance. Build it like a buffet or cabinet and hutch style. You can even use the drawered units. As long as the look is right. There maybe more styles than just the Havsta that may work and be in stock.

Thanks, Lorraine. I do like some of the other buffet style pieces ikea has but the space I'm working with is an L shape so I'm stumped on the corner. I could do open shelves but I like the idea of a base kitchen corner cabinet.

Aw Yes Dana the dreaded corner cabinet. Only solution then is to cut them down.

The hole patteren for 15” is exactly the same as the 24” . The 24” drawer slides dont even fasten to the back set of holes of the 24” base cabinet (they dont extent that far back) . The only thing you need to consider it how to reattach the back to stablize the cabinet to stop it from racking.

Here's what I might try:

1. Purchase a 24" base cabinet.
2. With a table saw, cut off the rear 2" of the three* panels. You now have three 22" panels.
3. With a table saw, cut off the rear 9" of the 22" panels. You now have three 13" panels.
4. Glue the 2" piece to the rear of the 13" panel from which it was cut. You now have three 15" panels.
5. Assemble the cabinet as normal.

*two sides and one bottom panel

Wdccruise and jdesign_gw - thank you so much! You have been very helpful.

Not sure what that recipe above is but if you do have a table saw and know how to use it you simply cut the cabinet sides and bottom to the size you want 15” or what ever your maximum space is (considering the 3/4” for the door) and re-slot the back area copying what was on the original back peice you cut off. Assemble as usual.

@jdesign_gw: "simply cut the cabinet sides and bottom to the size you want 15” or what ever..."

The panels are pre-drilled near the back with holes for the metal pegs, dowels, connectors, and metal bar that hold the panels together to form the cabinet.

"The panels are pre-drilled near the back with holes for the metal pegs, dowels, connectors, and metal bar that hold the panels together to form the cabinet."

You don't need to use camlocks, just go to lowes pick up a pocket hole jig and screw the cabinet together with pocket hole screws, like the other 90% of cabinets. It will cost you $30 to $40... half that if you sell the jig when you are done.

Add in a couple of 1x4 braces on the back using pocket hole to prevent racking and call it a day.

wdccruise maybe you dont do this on a weekly basis like I do but its not really that difficulticily. You just use the two remaining dowel/camlocks and use screws near the back like many cabinets are built. only basic skills needed not the 30 plus years of building high-endcustom cabinets that I have.

I forgot that Ikea cabinets are skinned on the end of , so as @jdesign_gw suggested just use screws. You don't even need pocket hole screws if the side is getting covered.

I don't know why you are suggesting cutting off the rear of the cabinet which contains (a) the pre-drilled holes for the supplied metal pegs, dowels, and cams that attach the panels together, (b) the slots into which the back is inserted to square the cabinet, (c) the slots for supplied metal bar that extends across the top-rear of the cabinet, and (d) the holes for supplied brackets used to attach the cabinet to the wall and their covers. But I don't have "30 plus years of building high-end custom cabinets" and there's no Lowes nearby where I can spend $30-$40 on a hole jig and screws needed to perform a makeshift assembly of one cabinet.

This is a silly argument. If one has the skill and equipment to modify a cabinet then its safe to assume thet can handle the other task of replicating the nessary steps match the original. With Ikeas stock bing what is it these days this is constantly being done by installers of Ikea kitchens and they are cutting depths and widths to make it work. while there are many ways to accomplish this but I doubt may are cutting and pasting but nobody said that can’t work.

And yes, building things like this every day gives you more insight on the subject than those that don’t