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Stain or Paint ?

4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago

I changed the floor in my kichen and will need to update the wood transition piece you see here. i had stained it a ”similar” color to my previous floor, but it never really matched. I’d like to do it better this time..do you think i should stain it a darker color to match floor or should i paint this time to try and achieve a better match? kitchen floor i want to match is to the left in the photo (that‘s my oak floor in the dining riom to the right).

any product suggestions?

Also, do i have to sand off all previous stain, or can i lightly sand it just so new color stain adheres?


Comments (9)

  • 4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    It would be very easy to remove, sand, and stain that strip to get it to blend in with the gray floor - there are some very nice charcoal grays now, almost too many choices. If you are really fussy take a floor strip to Sherwin Williams and have them match the color. Make sure its a more heavy bodied stain or even a gel stain, vs. light penetrating stain because you want more color but the grain still to show through. Paint would stick out like a sore thumb even if you found a reasonably close color match, because it would cover up the grain of the wood.. Another benefit of stain is it would show wear much less than if it was painted.

  • 4 years ago

    It looks like your existing wood floors are just oak with a clear oil based polyurethane. You can either apply the same finish (no stain) on a new transition piece and let it "catch up" over the months & years, or try a sample board staining with 'natural', 'classic oak', 'honey pine', 'colonial maple', 'pecan' etc until you find a match. Just remember to apply 3 top coats of poly on your sample before comparing to existing because even though its a clear finish it will darken the color just a tad

  • 4 years ago

    Oh apologies you're trying to match the left color. You may do better with something like polyshades semi transparent finish because it'll mute the browns and help mask inconsistencies if you're not able to sand the onld finish off entirely. Analine dye is the best for getting grayish colors without highlighting the brown and still giving a transparent finish but it can take a bit of practice to use.


    Definitely don't paint, you've got 2 colors already no need to add a 3rd into the mix it'll look confused

  • 4 years ago

    Thank you for steering me away from paint. i agree about looking confused because thats how it seems to me now. id teally like to match the left the best i can

  • 4 years ago

    I have two types of flooring: Pergo oak laminate in my kitchen, and Italian porcelain wood look tile in my hallway. We used an oak transition piece and put a few clear coats on it, and it came out good: matching our Pergo flooring.

  • 4 years ago

    Yep, if you want to use stain I would guess at starting samples with 'true black', 50/50 'true black/slate', and just 'slate'. Once you find the color a  water-based top coat will introduce less yellows over time and yes you can use water based top coats on flooring just make sure you use 3 coats. With stain you want a black color to minimize the browns in the wood, but not a stain thats too solid because you lose the grain. Analine dye is awesome for these colors but its a bit of a pain if you've never done it before.

  • 4 years ago

    The tile color im looking to match is more brown than gray to me..its called wengue


  • 4 years ago

    OK but its a gray brown - you will find some of the gray stains lean brown, others lean blue. You can tweak with mixol tints, or have SW match. Even i you are well versed in mixing color it can get maddening trying to find the right shade. I would try to sand off as much of the brown as possible. Its not a big piece, would not take long.

  • 4 years ago

    I think it is easier to match the transition piece to your oak flooring on the right of your picture.

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