For light duty, the answer to the last question is probably 'yes' but the IAQ guru here is @opaone.

If the hood overlap is sufficient and the air flow rate (CFM) is sufficient, expelling outdoors will always win at removing effluent, but one shouldn't neglect considering what the intake MUA might contain if one is in a city or other area of contaminated air. Essentially, with induction, one is trade-weighting food cooking effluent vs. exterior combustion vehicle and industrial activity effluent.

I don't recall ever addressing this before, but most MUA comments of mine here that mention filtering have assumed anything from a screen to a pleated furnace filter to keep out bugs and dust without too much pressure loss. Open windows usually have screens with modest, but sometimes significant pressure loss. But local environmental air may need more thorough filtering, and in such cases, some MERV grade furnace filter may be needed for particulates and perhaps charcoal filtering for chemicals. Such MUA paths will need an MUA blower because the filter pressure loss will be too high, not just for combustion appliance safety, where applicable, but for letting the hood operate near its intended flow rate. Whatever filtering would be considered necessary for normal interior air replacement would need to be incorporated, at larger scale, into an MUA system. Or move to the country.

Not sure about guru... :-)

Some excellent points above.

For boiling water on an inducation a recirc will suffice - for that one element of your overall ventilation needs. Beyond that it gets more complicated...

Your overall goal is fresh healthy indoor air. For that you need to remove contaminated air and replace it with fresh non-contaminated air. It is always best to remove contaminants at their source if possible. Otherwise they spread throughout the house which makes removal more difficult, expensive and exposes occupants to them. The latter is not much of a problem for small amounts of lower risk contaminants in a large house but a bigger problem for larger amounts of higher risk contaminants in a smaller house.

So then, what about removal of contaminants that are not removed at the source such as from above, the CO2 that we exhale or formaldehyde from furniture? Here it's critical that we have adequate whole house ventilation (the vast majority of homes in the U.S. do not btw). In general if CO2 is kept below 550 ppm when people are present then we can sort of also assume that other contaminants are likely being removed as well. This ventilation can be via open windows (my preference), balanced ventilation such as an ERV/HRV or supply/exhaust such as a range hood that exhausts air along with a passive or active supply (MUA).

As to polluted outside air... In our case ALL mechanical air movement into and within our house flows through MERV-13 filters. This includes forced air HVAC which runs continuously on low speed to circulate air along with ERV and MUA air brought in to the house. If there is heavy smoke or other contaminants that can pass through the MERV-13 filters then we swap in MERV-16.

We live in MN though and often cannot have windows open for flow-thru ventilation due to humidity, temp or forest fire smoke. It's very different for someone who can keep windows open 355 days per year.

We have CO2 monitors that kick the recirculation and/or ERV up if levels increase. This mostly happens in closed door bedrooms at night but occasionally when we have a lot of people for dinner.

We keep windows open as often as we can but if outside is not conducive due to air pollution, humidity or temp then we close them and let the mechanical systems take care of ventilation.

SO. A recirc hood will spew a lot of contaminants in to your house. Will you be able to adequatetly remove them? Can you keep windows open for flow-thru ventilation all the time? If not then what do you have for whole house ventilation?