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lauren_sykes34

Douglas Fir Front door help!!!

3 years ago

We just installed a brand new Douglas for front door. I liked the natural color and wanted to keep it as natural as possible because our house is a dark charcoal grey. I picked minwax beechwood and they tested it one area of the door and it looked good. However when they stained the whole door it was completely uneven and looked white washed and yellow in some areas. Some parts of it look good and natural but some areas look horrible. My question is can the door be re-sanded and just sealed with a clear coat to fix this problem or has anyone had any luck with a good stain color for a fir door? I have researched but can’t find anything and am so upset about this whole process… thanks for my help or ideas.

Comments (12)

  • PRO
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Start over, ask what he did..........probably NOT this. If you want only clear coat ? You will STILL see variations. Just as you would if the door was oak. You are seeing the result of open and more closed grain in door construction. Below......

    "Yes, Douglas Fir is good for staining, but you need to have a lot of preparation and patience. The variable porosity and uneven texture of Douglas fir make the wood so hard to stain.

    Staining Douglas fir to get its natural shade is a challenging task. The vertical grain pattern differs according to the porosity of different areas of the wood and hard to achieve the color as we wish. Careful preparation and patience are the keys to success in Douglas fir staining.

    The bright red and orange color hues of Douglas fir can pop through the stain. Therefore, it’s important to know what the best stain products for Douglas fir staining are.

    What Is the Best Stain for Douglas Fir?

    Even though mostly any stain works well with Douglas fir, Gel stain is considered the best stain product for Douglas fir.

    Gel stain is easy to apply on Douglas fir than many other stain products. It is closer to paint and helps to get the uniform color all over the wood without surface blotchiness.

    The thickness of gel stain limits the absorption, and it helps to apply the stain evenly and spread it more before sinks compared to liquid stain types.

    3. Apply Wood Conditioner

    Douglas fir is considered a difficult wood to stain because of its uneven texture. But by applying wood conditioner prior to wood stain, you’ll be able to apply the wood stain evenly throughout the wood surface.

    By applying a pre-stain wood conditioner before staining, it will help the wood to take stain evenly without getting blotches and streaks while applying stain.

    For a woodworker, my advice is using a wood conditioner before staining is a must with wood like Douglas fir. Because wood conditioner will help to avoid making most of the wood staining mistakes.

    Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner is great for this task which I personally recommend. But always make sure to take both stain product and wood conditioner product from the same manufacturer to avoid any incompatibilities.

    Two coats of wood conditioner are recommended because, as soon as you apply the first coat of wood conditioner, it will absorb as you rub it. The second coat will be set on top of the wooden surface and make the wood ready to accept the stain.

    Apply wood conditioner evenly through the whole surface and is set for another 15 minutes. after that remove the excess wood conditioner using a clean cloth and apply the second coat and let it dry for another 15 – 30 minutes.

    5. Let the Wood Dry Completely

    After the application of each coat of wood stain, let the wood dry for nearly 24 hours before applying another coat of stain. If you apply another coat of stain even before the previous coat dried, that can lead to a serious problem and your whole project can be ruined and will have to start over from the beginning. So, drying is so important when staining.

    Applying thin coats of stain will reduce the drying time and improve the process efficiency.

    Gel stain is considered the best wood stain for Douglas fir and only one coat of gel stain is enough to make the project succeed."

    https://woodworkly.com/does-douglas-fir-stain-well/

  • 3 years ago

    Well there you have Laure,a concise method to straighten the door out. I for one would love it if you report back on how well it worked. When I saw it I felt it would require someone who brings experience with them to rescue it.

  • 3 years ago

    I hope you can get that door finish repaired or the whole door replaced to start over. All the wood trim and my bathroom cabinets are natural DF. They darken quite a bit as they age, but are still beautiful. My front door is painted, but I had a custom DF screen made that has a natural finish on it and it has held up beautifully without darkening too mich. My contractor favored using marine finishes on unstained DF, but unfortunately I can’t say which ones they were. But I might research those products for the exterior especially.

  • 3 years ago

    Thanks everyone! I will keep you posted on the final look. They are re sanding it down today to start the process over.

  • 3 years ago

    "They are re sanding it down today to start the process over."


    Most likely veneer so do not let them get too crazy with the sanding.

  • 3 years ago

    That is the nature of Douglas Fir. It has red/orange potential. Gel stain is the way to go.

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    IMO do not let them touch that door again get someone who knows what they are doing.

  • 3 years ago

    Was the stain solid or semi and someone tried to fill your request for a natural wood grain? It looks like someone tried to do a faux wood finish. I searched the Minwax site and could not find a color called Beechwood. Did you have them use one of their Color Wash or Wood Effects? Those finishes would explain the uneven look of someone not versed in applying a faux finish or pickling or grain effect. Be very selective about which product you hand somone to work with.

  • 3 years ago

    I've finished and refinished a lot of Doug-fir, and I agree with the 3-step process described above except for one thing: I've found dewaxed shellac (e.g., Zinsser Sealcoat) is more reliably consistent than Minwax conditioner. Good luck and please post photos when it's redone and beautiful.

  • 3 years ago

    Update on our door- they sanded it down but it’s near impossible to get all the old stain and polyurethane off for the door to fully take the new stain. There two options now- paint it or get a new door and honestly we have been renovating since March and I am so over this, so I am headed to the paint store to pick out some paint that brings me joy and I think in the king run this will be a good decision to paint it cause the upkeep is less over time. We live by the ocean so weather takes a toll on doors here and they need refinishing every couple years etc so I am just going to have it painted and can always change the color easily in the future. Thank you all for your advice! I will post a final picture when it’s done.

  • PRO
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    Put thee focus on the SWING door

    I'd paint the sidelights your same trim white, and JUST the swing door in a great red or deep yellow. In other words, don't let the side lights and trim make it look cut up and choppy. See first pic, especially.........: )





    OR......... use same white sidelight concept with a deep yellow.



    I lean yellow, I think with all that fresh white of sidelights making it really hop. I hate the pop word.LOL



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