In photo #1 there appears to be damage to the undersides of the leaves, not just the bud. My guess is that you've encountered some kind of insecticide phytotoxicity. This can happen by applying when weather is too hot, or applying multiple insecticides together or too soon after each other. Are you mixing two or more of these products in the sprayer at the same time? Is there any chance you've applied any of them at a concentration stronger than recommended?

The phytotoxicity ratings for both Conserve and Forbid are quite good (rarely cause damage), but the statements regarding Botanigard are quite vague: they imply that its safe most of the time, for most genera. That suggests to me that it can cause damage under certain conditions, on some genera.

You don't mention anything about WHERE you are located - climate plays a role in how insecticides work, and potentially do damage to roses.

Thank you, Paul, very helpful! I am now in Austin, recently from Dallas, previously Houston. Houzz dropped the zone 8a. I think you are right. I try to error on the side of "less is best", but I have bug-sprayed more here than in all my other gardening cities combined. These Austin bugs walk to their own drum beat and are next to impossible to kill or control with my normal sprays. I tried a popular local product this summer hoping that it would work but it burned the leaf edges, (spray was in the evening).

I do not mix products, only adding Indicate 5 as a spreader sticker

Another thought I had…. One bush was sent to me in early Sept as a 3 gal plant from a nursery in a cooler climate. I knew it was a gamble and the plant was stressed when it arrived, but it maintained most of its leaves and had blooming flowers opening. It immediately recovered and began new growth and flower buds. I wondered if the leaf and flower buds that were forming had been affected by the heated journey. These are the buds now trying to develop and this is the bush showing the most bud damage. Its new leaves are more crinkled than that variety usually exhibits, from my memory of the bush. This does not explain the other bushes, but this was the one with the most obvious bud damage. Thanks again for your time with this.

"I tried a popular local product this summer hoping that it would work but it burned the leaf edges, (spray was in the evening)."

Sounds like a product to avoid. My guess is that what you're seeing is the result of damage from a spray the plants didn't like. What did you use that burned the foliage? Was it one of those home-brewed things? (Baking soda is known for burning foliage, no matter when its applied)

The original issue is Chilli Thrips. They are a common insect issue in Texas climates. They cause the damage originally complained about. Chilli Thrips require intervention to deal with. Whatever products you choose, read the labels and use them religiously by the directions.

Thanks Roseseek, bud damage looks just like the googled pictures. It figures that Austin would have chili thrips, they seem to have everything else. Maybe they decided to make Austin their home and leave the rest of the state alone, I had none in Houston nor in Dallas in 40 yrs. of roses. Something new to learn about every day in gardening especially if you move cities.

I see nothing on my plants now but will spray them with the appropriate product and keep up the routine. I normally alternate spraying with ladybug release to try and avoid chemical resistance. Are these guys too tough for the ladies?

Paul, no it was not a home remedy. The product was called Capitan Jack and it should have been OK. It had the right active ingredients, I thought.

It only burned the roses, nothing else. I was fighting white fly at the time. Sprayed in the evening 8 pm because it was so hot here.

You're welcome, Austin. Lady Bugs are ineffective against Chilli Thrips as they are too small for them to find and eat. There are other predators for the CT's but forget trying them if you're going to spray anything to battle the Chilli Thrips. Predators are usually much more susceptible to pesticides than the pests are. I'm sure there must be a rose society in the area. Contacting them should provide you with the most proven methods of control in the area. Good luck!

Paul, I do think I have some chemical damage still on leaves but the buds look like CT damage.

Roseseek, do you have a preference for alternating with Conserve? I hate to do back to back applications of the same product. Prefer the big guns, that don't hurt the good guys.

Thankfully, CT's are not an issue in my climate. I hope it's due to our being too chilly for their liking, but there's no guaranty they won't eventually appear here. Fortunately, the issues most prevalent here can be handled without spraying (dumping disease prone types and water wand use for spider mites) so I don't spray anything but water. I'm not aware of anything other than Conserve (Spinosad) that won't hurt predators.

Just read at ARS an article on chili thrips, apparently Houston does have them. . Houston has a wonderful rose society with many experts and a newsletter of merrit. Article suggested soil drench and spray. But soil drench in pots?? Not sure about that. In the ground I never used it except as a last resport. I spent years on my dirt so pouring insecticides I thought problamatic.

Drenches do work though So guess you have to choose your poison.

https://www.rose.org/single-post/2020/07/01/chilli-thrips

That's honestly your best bet. The advice will fit your climate and conditions better. I'd imagine an email to their web site might bring a response from someone in that area who deals with potted roses. it's worth a try. Good luck!

I found Captain Jack's to be useless against garden variety thrips, but it didn't cause harm to my plants.It's a so called organic treatment. Diane

Against Western Flower Thrips, nope, Spinosad won't work. Flower thrips are in between the flower petals where they won't come in contact with the bacteria. Chilli Thrips are significantly smaller than flower thrips but they are out in the open on the growth so they are more exposed to the bacteria. Both are susceptible to systemics.

Thanks for your information, Roseseek. I wish I'd known it years ago when I purchased Spinosad. They were touting it as the best thing since sliced bread and effective against anything. Mostly I ignore thrips, which are only on a few of my roses for a short period of time. The Prince is probably the biggest thrips' mess, and a dark rose at that. Diane

roseseek

yesterday

Thankfully, CT's are not an issue in my climate. I hope it's due to our being too chilly for their liking, but

Why am I not suprised no one else here liked this

I am learning more than I ever wanted to know on Chili Thrips. Nasty suckers.