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Is this normal performance for new glider windows?

3 years ago

Hello!

We had some 1970s casement windows that were totally fogged up replaced with Marvin Signature Ultimate glider windows last May. As its been VERY cold in Minnesota the past few weeks, I've been pretty disappointed in the air temp next to these windows compared to our old windows (also a lot more sound is getting in compared to the old windows). I knew glider/slider windows were less energy efficient than casements, but thought the different would be more subtle.


The coldest area seems to be the track of the new window, adjacent to the fixed window. I took some thermal photos of one of the windows last night when it was 0 degrees or a bit colder outside, and found temps of 22 degrees in the sort of pocket at the end of the track. The pocket itself seems to have no purpose and I don't know why it wasn't insulated (I stuck some rope caulk in the pocket of one of the other windows but it doesn't seem to have made a difference).


Was an insulation step missed when these windows were installed? They were installed into existing frames, and unfortunately I didn't supervise fully to see what level of insulation they did. Or is this just the best I can expect from new glider windows? For comparison, the coldest spots near my original 1920s double-hung windows with storms is 45 degrees (though those are a bit closer to the heating vents).


If this is the best they get, I can't believe these windows qualify for Energy Star!


Thanks for any advice you might have before I reach out to my window installer.













Comments (3)

  • PRO
    3 years ago

    In my experience, the coldest areas on the window (including the bottom edge of glass) will be in the ballpark of 30 degrees warmer then the exterior temperature in the winter. Your windows may be a little colder than expected. While Marvin makes quality windows, "airtightness" isn't exactly their forte, especially for sliders. Based on the area that you are showing, that would be a reflection of the window itself, not the installation unless it is out of square causing the sealing issue.

    Energy Star's air infiltration limit is an awful .30cfm which EVERY window on the market has to meet or beat, so unfortunately that isn't something that would ensure an airtight unit. Most pros in the know would speculate that the poor air infiltration ratings of the big name brands and their influence are the very reason for this. Supreme irony given that the home performance industry is centered around air leakage more than anything else.

    resseger thanked HomeSealed Exteriors, LLC
  • PRO
    3 years ago

    Pretty normal points of infiltration on a slider. Some are better than others, but nothing there is jumping out at me.

    resseger thanked Windows on Washington Ltd
  • 3 years ago

    Thank you both, this is helpful to know, and I probably won't make a big stink with the installer then. Bummer that our installer wasn't more forthright about this with us, though I know people don't like to hear this information when shelling out for a major purchase. I had hoped for better from Marvin, especially given the cost!


    I'm going to take my thermal camera and look all around the frame to see if any additional issues jump out, but I agree that what I've done so far indicates that coldest parts are within the window itself, so no indication of install issues.


    Any suggestions to try and minimize the cold near the windows? Add some more rope caulk? I was thinking of getting some of those insulation socks to fit in the track area during the winter?


    Thanks again.