The solution I found for this when we remodeled years ago was to do an adjustable shelf immediately above the refrigerator with a cabinet above. We did 37" of width and 25" of depth because that seemed pretty universal for what most 36" counter-depth fridges needed at the time (2010)--we finally replaced our old refrigerator this spring and it was just the right size to have any 36" counter-depth model we wanted. I think there are similar common depths for standard depth. The shelf was set to accommodate anything from 67" to 84" in height. We remodeled in part because we had a 1930s-era refrigerator enclosure that couldn't take a modern fridge so we wanted to "future proof" the enclosure as much as possible.

You might consider using IKEA kitchen cabinets as models for your cabinet sizes as they have been installed in a bazillion kitchens:

• Tall cabinet: 80" or 90" tall* x 15-17-24-30" wide x 14" deep
• Legs/plinth: 4-1/2"
• Refrigerator cabinet: 36" wide x 10-15-20" tall** x 24" deep
• Vertical cover panel: 80" or 90" tall x 25" deep

You could fill any gap between the refrigerator cabinet and your current refrigerator with a cover panel.

*Depending on ceiling height

**Depending on how much space you want to allow above the current refrigerator

Let's just hope your fridge is not one of those very deep ones that they sell based on cubic footage. Most pantry cabinets are 24" deep and you'll require special depth side panels to cover the black sides of the fridge.

See how much further a standard fridge extends out beyond the countertop

The real issue is the space required for the fridge to have air mvement and who knows what might happen down the road as far as a replacement .I have sxs all fridge all freezer with a built in kit from Fridgedair there will be issues for replacement that I cannot forsee but they are 16 yrs old and still going strong they are couter depth I never would go back to monster deep fridges no matter what. I run a catering biz with a counter depth fridge no problem

I did a 36" fridge cabinet and a 36" fridge and it did fit, but because of the wonkiness of an older house, we ended up having to remove the deco panel of the pantry that flanked it (which is fine, because you can't see it with the fridge installed. The ONE THING I would've changed was to add just another inch to that 36" cabinet, by way of cover panels or something, to make the fridge slide in with ease.

If it's a counter-depth refrigerator and you will always have a counter-depth refrigerator, I recommend building the alcove so it's 37" to 37.5" wide inside. The side panels/tall cabinet should be as deep as the refrigerator box (usually ~24") + whatever clearance is needed behind it. The doors must remain clear so they will be able to be opened fully.

If the refrigerator is standard-depth, the alcove's interior width may need to be an inch or two wider.

Counter-depth & standard-depth have different requirements for air clearance, so it's important to know what you have. The installation specs should have info regarding required air clearances for your refrigerator. If you don't have the manual, check online for it.

(Personally, I prefer a counter-depth b/c things aren't as likely to get lost in the shallower refrigerator. You may (or may not) think differently.)

Thanks everyone...Our current fridge is a standard size. I will certainly check out the air clearances in the manual. Then I wll discuss it all with the contractor that we hire, Thanks for all the feedback,