Pics please . Post here in a comment

I dont have pics yet. These are yet to be installed. The installer commented he doesn’t like them for the reason i mentioned.

Probably depends on the quality of the drawers. Maybe he doesn't like installing them.

Cabinets are Kraftmade.

I have only used them on cabinet doors in a bathroom vanity and the top edge was routed so that the pull was flush with the edge of the cabinet. It had to be routed as the gap between door and counter was too narrow to surface mount, but I also think this type of pull looks better when routed/flush.

These are bronze from Rocky Mountain Hardware and come in different sizes and finishes.

I have to agree this sounds like he has not been working with these types before .

I prefer edge pulls that are L shaped and attached to the back of the face of the door or drawer so pulling open the door or drawer puts the stress on the pull itself and the long axis of the screw is parallel to the forces put on it.

Pulls like Chispa shows put lateral forces on the screws themselves and on the grain of the wood and not on the pull itself and on a heavy drawer this is like the effect of slowly rocking a post out of the ground. Chispa may not have had this experience but I know someone who had pulls like this that were always a little loose and eventually could no longer be retightened because the screw holes became oval. They were not careful people and tended to yank things open with one pull instead of both and slam things around a bit, but it is something to consider.

Yes, this can be a problem. It is not a big problem and it is typically one we can deal with, but it is not a fabricated problem. Before soft close drawers became the standard, screwed on drawer faces would regularly pop off when closed a bit too hard.

On drawers we always prefer to attach the handle through the face frame to the drawer box itself. The reason being, a screw through a drawer box into the back of a drawer face doesn't have a lot of pull out resistance.

Drawer fronts are typically attached using #8 screw, so using that into Oak (with a specific density of .59) we get a withdrawal resistance at 79.4lbs... The problem being, that assumes the screw fully penetrates the wood, which doesn't happen in drawers (at least I hope not). So we will shorten the screw depth in the calculator to adjust for the starter threads on the screw, we then get a withdrawal between 39.7 and 55.6 lbs.

One additional complicating factor is that wood is hygroscopic and moves slightly with seasonal humidity changes (swells and shrinks), so over time the withdrawal force is reduced. Additionally, wood is flexible and as you pull on the handle it is going to essentially create a lever to increase the force multiplier at the screw.

However, before, you change your mind on the pulls... These are problems that we learned to mitigate a long time ago. First, just use more screws. The inside of your drawer may not be as clean looking with more screws but it will hold a lot better. Next, use drawer front (washer head) screws. Also, put screws directly on either side of the pulls. Finally, soft close glides are essentially required. If you do those things you should have no problem with this type of pull.

Good luck

ETA: By the way... this is the same reason that we started using dovetails on drawer boxes. Before soft close glides you would just pop the front or back of the drawer off when you closed it too hard. The wider tails prevented the front and back from popping off.