Basement Waterproofing

3 years ago

Hi all, we have had an issue in our basement where water seeps in during heavy rainfalls at the base of the chimney and along two of the walls. The house has a cheaper version of a French drain called a baseboard drain leading to a sump pump. Obviously this is not helping the issue at the chimney and water seems to be bypassing it at the wall area where it's seeping in. We have had 6 different basement waterproofing companies come here and all 6 have recommended installing a perimeter French drain at the footer of the foundation. We have tried to avoid this long enough and have come to terms with the fact that we are going to have to get it done. The problem is that the walls where the trench has to be jackhammered to install the drain are finished. Meaning that they will have to cut the sheetrock and jackhammer out the tile floor along those walls. We have been in this house less than 3 years and have already had to replace the roof and HVAC and simply don't have endless money for repairs. My dad and I can handle replacing the sheetrock walls and the taping, but we can't have a new floor installed as well. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with a workaround for the floor in this type of situation?

Featured Answer

3onthetree

3 years ago

The "basement waterproofing" companies have their product and usually only do that 1 product. If you choose to do it the right way outside, then they will not get your money. It's like asking a vacuum salesperson if they can get your tile floor to shine, they only have the SUX2000 to offer so they'll dance around your question.

Realize this:

The term you used of "cheap baseboard drain" to me means you have an interior aluminum perimeter "cove base" gutter system which is a post-infiltration solution. Water comes into the wall (choosing this solution means most likely through dozens of mortar joints on CMU, working it's way inside the CMUs to the bottom course, then out drilled holes into the perimeter cove gutter) and is collected at the slab/wall joint. Problem is with these, your slab is not sloped towards the sump pit, especially right next to the slab/wall joint. So an amount of water will still be sitting somewhere around the perimeter, and only the caulk holding the alum cove gutter is stopping water from leaking out. And if you have water coming through the wall higher than the base cove gutter, it can't catch it.

Now consider the mechanisms of a retro-fit interior underslab french drain, what you are considering. It is still post-infiltration, meaning it allows the water to still come through the wall, then catches it in a slit at the slab/wall joint. Any water running down from up higher on the wall will be caught in the slit too. But what does that mean for this "open drain" in a finished basement? You will have to install a full poly sheet from this slit all the way up to the first floor joists to collect and keep moisture from ruining the backside of your walls. The slit has to go at the slab/wall joint, so at minimum about 12" of the bottom of your studs will need to be removed (they try to keep it below receptacle height to avoid a can of worms), or much more to demo in order to install a proper poly sheet to contain moisture. And I won't even get into what an airspace between your furred-out wall and the concrete wall causes (see Joe Lstiburek articles on basement insulating). All that work done to still let in water into your basement.

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Comments (7)

3onthetree
3 years ago
If you have concerns about doing the interior drain tile, then start investigating what fixing drains/gutters, slope/grading, overall yard drainage, and digging down on the exterior to waterproof the foundation the correct way would entail for your scope and budget, and better allow in usability of your existing basement.
party_music50
3 years ago
Do you have gutters on the house along the two walls that allow water to seep in, and if so do the gutters lead the water well away from the house? If not, deal with that first.
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Keith B
Original Author
3 years ago
Thank you both. Yes, the gutters in those areas take the water out well away from the house. Digging down on the exterior would have it’s advantage over an interior fix as it would not involve the post project repairs. It would cost far more though and none of the waterproofing companies that have been here have recommended it.
worthy
3 years ago
Interior treatments do not stop continuing damage to the foundation wall.
Ed Albuquerque
2 years ago
Hey there,

Been in your shoes, believe me! Water in the basement can be a real pain. When we faced a similar mess, here’s what we did to keep our sanity and our wallet intact:

First, since sheetrock’s in your skillset zone, that’s already a win! For that pesky floor, let me share a trick we used:

We headed over to our local hardware store and picked up heavy-duty plastic sheeting and a roll of inexpensive linoleum flooring. It was a lifesaver! We laid down the plastic sheeting first, then slapped the linoleum right on top. It might not be HGTV-worthy, but it covered the rough spots and didn’t break the bank.

Also, don’t forget to seal any gaps with waterproof tape. This makeshift floor held up pretty well while we saved up for better flooring.

Good luck! You got this!
worthy
2 years ago
Reminds me of a house-flipping expert's remedy: 2x4s on the damp floor topped by plywood and what have you. Out of sight, out of mind. And ready for a quick sale!