Get a white sheet to place under your LVP sample, so you get a better idea of how that color will look in the space.

I'd live with it as is for a while to see which you like better. But if you want to do it immediately, I'd do the floor, and replace it with something other than LVP.

Are you only considering replacing the flooring in the kitchen or is this flooring used throughout? Having the cabinets painted would be cheaper than replacing a lot of flooring, but it sounds like you really don't like the flooring. If it bothers you more than the cabinets, do the flooring. Use LVP if that is consistent with the price point of the home, or is used frequently in your area. Real wood is always a good choice as it's durable and can be refinished.

I agree with living with it for a short while to really determine which direction you wanna go. But based on the photos I voted to get rid of the floors. They're not only dark but a very unappealing cooler tone.

If replacing the flooring.........it goes everywhere. And not the sample you are showing. I'd do an engineered before LVP if at all possible, if not, fine. What/which is there now? They are very different thickness

Do not jump from the frying pan i to the fire by choosing dated corpse gray plastic floors. 𝘛𝘩𝘰𝘴𝘦 𝘫𝘢𝘪𝘭𝘩𝘰𝘶𝘴𝘦 𝘨𝘳𝘢𝘺 𝘧𝘭𝘰𝘰𝘳𝘴 𝘸𝘰𝘶𝘭𝘥 𝘣𝘦 𝘸𝘰𝘳𝘴𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘸𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘺𝘰𝘶 𝘩𝘢𝘷𝘦. You want a natural wood tone, in a natural wood. Unless your house is entry level in the market. Real wood is expected n more upscale homes.

IMO we need to see the space to answer. I think if you hate the floors and are willing to change them all then do the floors . As for the wood versus LVP so much of that is how you live . We have 3 huge dogs a wood floor would have been a total mess in a year trimmed claws or not. We have a German made laminate on our main floor and LVP in our walkout. They have stood up well for 16 yrs . I happen to love dark floors and absolutely hate espresso cabinets , in my head espresso colored wood will always be cheap stuff from China. BTW a swiffer is afabulous way to deal with dark floors and the fact is all floors get dirty the dark ones just tell you when.Many very upscale homes have flooring that works for the way people live.

Appreciate the insights and comments.

I cant copy your user names so I’ll just speak to the questions.

Personally I prefer site stained hardwood from a look and renewability perspective. Although I’ve had it in the past, I was unhappy with performance with multiple kids and dogs running around. Spills where constant. Controlling humidity was brutal too with sub zero winter temps and summers with 70% dew points.

Thr LVP would be replaced in all areas except two bedrooms and bathroooms. The master bed and hallway are carpet now and would convert to the same LVP.

Its $12K for mid tier LVP - 1,400 sqft.

Engineered and hardwood closer to $21K.

Only custom builds in the $2M range get hardwood. Sometimes see enginerred in $1M builds. Anything under $1M gets LVP or laminate.

For cabinets its $6K to sand, prime and 2 coat with Renner paint. It would likely be a more durable finish.

This may help with the tones. I was going for a natural white oak look with neutral undertone. The undertones are brutal otherwise with so many floors too gray, too honey, too red, too blonde!

Couple folks said the middle one is gray or corpse gray lol.

Perhaps a slight understone but otherwise not gray.

I’ve gone through many lvp samples and generally not happy with how plastic looking they are. This one had a different grain detail than most basically the imprint matches the grain print vs ripples not aligned with the grain print.

This view is zoomed out a bit more

The loose board sample is far better than the three square samples

Just live with it a while and maybe put down some more rugs. Why waste all that flooring and money when there is nothing really wrong with it?

Loose board or warmer and more alive looking is the direction. 12K is way way low in price for what you are contemplating. That is lower end like maybe 6 mil material without any proper subfloor prep. Prep that has to happen, or you are throwing away 12K. Industry standard is 3/16” flatness in 10’. It damages the locking mechanism permanantly if that is not achieved.

"Moved into a spec build home and the combo of dark cabs and dark floor is a fail."

The question is when did you move in?

I'd do nothing for the moment if it's recent. Get an oversized Swiffer, with the pet refills, keep it handy, Put down runners at sink and stove in an indoor outdoor material and when the floor is beat up, decide. Flooring AND cabinet color.

Interiors are warming, after nearly two decades of gray/white cool spaces.......and mark my words, you will see a return of deeper toned flooring as well. The espresso cabinet will not return : )

@Hallett & Co. and Lomo

Loose board shown below. Agree - it took quite sometime to find something with just enough movement, be natural and light and avoid undertones. Still not in love with it though as it still comes off too blonde with the dark woods in the house. Better half HATES it!

Current LVP is Shaw click 20mil/4mm + 1mm pad Brio series.

Subfloor all good - if not builder will address.

I've negotiated a builder price for replacement.

The $12K is for Paramount 20mil/4mm + 1mm pad, bevel and RealGrain+

This include R&R shoe, new primed shoe for hall/master bed, move appliances, remove and recycle all old flooring.

@skitt

After the protective paper was taken off it darkened the space more than expected. We said we'd replace in 5 years. The footprints and water spots from loading dishwasher and dogs drinking water is a disaster. I've grown to loath it more and more everyday. Too many area rugs a pain for vacuuming. It was a spec build in which the builder sat on the lot for several years and took 2 years to build. Ultimately they priced it lower due to those lower costs - didn't love the interior finishes but the location and lot where perfect!

I'd want 5 mm, a 71 inch plank x 7".

Not wild about ANY you have shown. Apply the builder price, and get a better floor. Ante up, in other words.......even to engineered which will have a more realistic look and afford a re finish up the road. All of them afford better ranges of color than LVP in lighter tones.

https://www.llflooring.com/p/bellawood-artisan-5-8-in.-geneva-white-oak-engineered-hardwood-flooring-7.5-in.-wide-10045563.html?c3api=6090,PMAX,19994311194&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw29ymBhAKEiwAHJbJ8uULIILA1I8ZkprR57BEusWRMuP-3sBg2UFsI6HkSDF3egbdivYZpRoCuNUQAvD_BwE

Do you have a tiled mudroom? Put the dog dish there. You CAN live with a runner at the sink/dw locale.

This is Fusion Max - oak "chambord" ( LVP ) It's a great floor, warm, not too dark, or too light. Really warm looking. Come back at the cabinets....later.

In general · More Info

@JAN MOYER

Its been 1 year. I've seen builders using lighter flooring wood tones for a few years now. Previously dark to mid tones dominated - lots of gray undertones.

More wood is being used in the kitchen and in some cases two tone with painted islands or range hoods. White cabinets are still being used quite often. The dark cabinets - mostly charcoal vs dark stained woods are popping up more as well. They tie in the dark cabinets with the black interior window frames.

The flooring in your WRAPPED VIEWS project looks exactly like what the middle sample above. Where you happy with the choice or rolled with what the client wanted?

I like cool and airy colors. I don't like warm colors for whatever reason and never have. Only warm accents that compliment the cool tones.

The flooring in "wrapped views" is nowhere near as light in person as the photos and was CHOSEN to be quite a bit deeper than the light white oak cabinets, and is deeper than the white oak stair treads as well.

With deep greens and black? It is quite a warm ( albeit modern ) space, via a lot of texture

Wrapped views · More Info

Wrapped views · More Info

Whatever you do….BUY MORE THAN YOU NEED! Especially if you choose to do the floors in the now carpeted bedrooms. Your floors should match in all rooms, if possible. Nothing reads “Oh no! They discontinued this color flooring?!” more than rooms that conspicuously have different colored wood floors. Figure out how much extra flooring you would need for your bedrooms, buy in bulk, and pay to store it, if necessary!

@JAN MOYER

Makes sense - between photos and screen adjustments in person is always different. Throw in different lighting conditons throughout the day and it makes it even more interesting. Thanks for the suggestions above.

Below is what the floor looks like 2 days after cleaning.

Think about taking your shoes off after a long day. Dog paws coming in during the winter or wet paws from dew on the grass. Kids walking along the floors after soaking in the hot tub. Guests not taking shoes off. Walking on the floor after being in the unfinished basement.

Life is too short to control any of this so dark floors should be banned for any active family.

I get all of it. However.......? Kids can be trained to wipe feet on walk off mats, dogs can be trained to stop for a paw wipe. A lot more than you think is in your control. Handing one of them a Swiffer every day, speeds the learning curve in a big way.? You don't have to be a doormat.....you do have to buy a few. It will even prevent grime from going with them to carpeted bedrooms. Which probably should get the LVP too

Current

Going to do one more round looking at samples but generally the direction we're shooting for.

Maybe a little more warmth in case we paint the cabinets in the future.

I'd go light floor with your existing cabs. Collections - Silvan Hardwood - Flooret $5.50.

Definitely go for more warmth in the floors whether or not you paint the cabs. The photo you posted looks very gray, which is on its way out or if not, should be IMO.

Does this have warmth or too gray yet?

Only you can judge that since you see it live under your lighting conditions. I think it reads warm but is it real or memorex, uh, I mean the IPad?