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miguelissimo

Tab finger pulls — how to make them work with vertical cabinets

2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago

I had intended to use finger pulls like these or these for my kitchen renovation.

I wanted to emulate this project and this project.

Some renders are attached below. They show a different door handle, which I assumed could be easily replaced.

Now my contractor is saying that if we use these, there will be a 4/16" space in between the doors that close together vertically. He says it will likely be ugly and we won't want to do it.

My question is how does the first project above achieve those narrow spaces between the vertical doors and still use this style pull tab? How can I navigate this late design issue?! The handles in the render stand out too much for me. I would like something more minimalist and discrete.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!





Comments (16)

  • 2 years ago

    The doors should be notched so that the pulls can be recessed and sit flush with the door edge. If there is edge banding involved on your doors I can imagine why that would be annoying to do. This also means you are committed to those pulls forever.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked rebasheba
  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    hardware is not ugly. if you don't like the sharp contrast w/those black pulls, do something else.





    if you don't like pulls, do the small knurled knobs. very low profile. all colors. Maybe do the finger pulls on the drawers and these small knobs on the verticals








    here's some low profile/finget pulls

    https://www.rejuvenation.com/products/barrington-edge-pull



    https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/invisible-kitchen-cabinet-hardware-options-minimalist



    These are called Lip Pulls. not all of these need to have the door notched







    Amazon has those Lip Pulls. you can also check on AliExpress. Hardware is super cheap when you cut out the middle man. I've ordered tons of hardware off that site.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked Beth H. :
  • 2 years ago

    In my quest for hardware I considered these in place of finger pulls. I ultimately abandoned finger or any sort of lip pull at my husband's instance. I still love these and in my next kitchen with my next husband I hope to use them :)



    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked OC Kitchen
  • 2 years ago

    Thanks everyone, really excellent advice and very much appreciated.

  • 2 years ago

    Just remember this: the tighter your pulls are to your cabinets, the more you’ll be cleaning your doors. (We have “regular” handles, Top Knobs Aspen Flat, on our doors, and I notice greasy spots and tiny scratches from fingernails around the handles even there. I am a very neat person and do not touch anything with “foody hands”, so I know it doesn’t take much to leave marks.)

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked coray
  • 2 years ago

    I don't see hardware on the vertical cabinets in the first project you referenced but I'm sure I'm just missing it. I see two options in those pictures 1) push latch cabinets which I think the horse stable top cabinets are and 2) the lip of the cabinet in the second project is actually notched when the cabinet was made to create an invisible finger grab.

    I have push latch cabinets and they are great. For cabinets that need a hard tug to open like the lower trash/recycle pull out and the spice pull out, I have the finger pull that is notched. Otherwise you don't see hardware at all.

    I'm not clear if you were going for finger pulls for the look or you want the hardware to disappear like the projects that inspired you.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked tozmo1
  • 2 years ago

    This is probably a better indication of what I am aiming for.

    https://pin.it/D6s1Wht


    I aldo don't mind not having any tabs on the top as in one of the projects referenced above but I have kids and would expect the cabinets to get even dirtier.



  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I see now. There is a gap between the cabinets in the picture, likely a 1/8". Unless the cabinets are cut to allow the pull to sit flush with the edge of the cabinet as the above likely is, you will have a larger space 1/4" between the cabinets. Are you installing custom cabinets or stock? All of your examples are custom cabinets.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked tozmo1
  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I am struggling with this right now.

    I am considering offsetting them to halve the gap. Tyhe mockup looked nice where it's a pair of doors.

    My drawers have the pull across the entire drawer and I love the look and I also love not making a full commitment drilling through the cabinet door right now (decision fatigue) but the vertical application is a challenge. And I don't want to recess the pull - as that negates the future flexibility.

    If I can't make this work, visually, I am likely to go with the knurled nob.


    EDIT: I COULD use the top of the door for lower doors and that solves the problem - but I can't for the UPPER doors, as the lip would then go up and just be an icky dust catcher.

  • 2 years ago

    For the upper cabinets, at least the bottom set, could you put the finger pulls along the bottom of the door?

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked G W
  • 2 years ago

    Tozmo, hmm, I am not sure what the difference is. They are from Luxor. I don't think they are made from scratch. The designer I worked with did the layout and placed an order with Luxor that took 6 weeks to fill/deliver.


    just_janni, what do you mean "I am considering offsetting them to halve the gap. Tyhe mockup looked nice where it's a pair of doors." Dou have images, renders or sketches?


  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    They might be what's known as semi-custom cabinets. What does your designer say can be done? To get the look you want you have to have the edges notched. Their website shows this one that is notched or at least looks like they are:



    and this one that is touch latch



    So they do offer options. The ones that are notched are lift up cabinets but at least it shows you they have the equipment to create notches. If they aren't completed, see if they can do notches.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked tozmo1
  • 2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    Thanks Tozmo. I will have to see. Everyone here including the designer is telling me not to notch them. I wonder if it is possible to not notch them?

    • I measured the the door and it is 14/16"
    • The countertop will sit 4/16" over the edge of the door
    • These edge pulls have a front to back projection of 28/16"
    • So that about 10/16" of projection for these pulls, is that correct? Too tight for a finger pull? ChatGPT says I need 1.5-2" of space but that doesn't sound right.
  • 2 years ago

    Thanks Bob. Looks like you have slim shakers too. Do you know what the front to back projection is of yours? Where did you get them? Thanks

  • PRO
    2 years ago

    They are 1-1/2” deep by 5.9” wide. My doors are 1” thick so they project 1/2”. I got them on Amazon.

    Miguel Buckenmeyer thanked BobH