Can you post a picture of the whole tree and a close up of where the trunk goes into the ground and some of the leaves?

TIA

I'm new to this site. Thought I had posted pics. I'll try again..

Was it balled & burlap? Or did it come in as a potted tree.

Has it been an exceptionally harsh winter this last one?

How are the moisture conditions there? Been any drought or long dry spells?

The tree appears to have been planted at the correct depth because you can see the root flare just above where the trunk goes into the ground.

We just need to know more about how it was planted what weather was like over the last several years.

' First 2 years, it would grow a lot, then loose lots of the new growth to freezing over winter '

Does the tree get in on any late summer or fall lawn fertilizer?

The lawn does see fertilizer in fall. The tree us in a bed separated from the lawn, but will obviously have access to some of that fertilizer.

That can be bad. New trees that get nitrogen in the late summer and Fall, fail to harden off for winter and end up with freeze damage or die in the spring.

Is any herbicide spray used near the tree for lawn purposes?

And the reason I asked about the B & B or potted is that some b&b are shipped with synthetic burlap.

Synthetic burlap doesn't break down very well and can restrict root growth and should be removed at planting time. Some trees may even have a metal cage inside around the roots which also should be removed.

The only other thing I can think of is I see an errant root at the bottom of the trunk that's been cut away.

Sometimes potted trees that are grown in a pot for too long have what's called 'Circling roots' and when planted without being corrected, can travel in circles and knot up around the root base and strangle the tree as they grow and expand in the root zone.

Was anything done to inspect and correct the root ball at planting time?

I am aware of all of these concerns, and do my best to avoid them. (Not that they still couldn't ne an issue) my real question is, I guess, the tree seems otherwise healthy, are these leaves concerning? As I mention, the more recent growth looks somewhat better. As far as the leaf damage, we have had quite a few strong winds, and some hail thus summer which accounts for lots of the damage. So, mostly, how concerning is the leaf size.

For comparison, here is my silver cloud in the back yard. I guess when I look at it, although the leaves are larger and healthier, the earlier ones are also smaller that the newer ones.

My next question would be 'What part of the world are you growing these trees?'

If it's in an area where maple trees can grow well, then I would say there's not much to do.

IMO: that tree should be a LOT bigger after what, 5 years?

One thing I can say is if a tree gets winter damage multiple times it can leave the tree in a weakened state, struggling to survive. It might recover, it might not. You could just wait and see.

If the tree just plain bugs you and hasn't progressed as you would like, just replace the tree with one you like better.

Despite being apparently planted at the right depth, these trees can be root-bound if grown in pots. That can cause your symptoms. Scrape away the mulch and even some soil around the base to see if the root crown shows binding/strangling.

I remember being pretty aggressive straightening the roots when I planted this. I just pulled back dirt around roots to recheck for strangling roots again. (Photos to be attached) nothing concerning to me. If the answer to my main question is that thear leaves are a sign of root stress, could this just be a symptom of too much rain, combined with not the best draining soil? As I said, this year, we had a ridiculously wet June, and cool may. In June, the leaves looked to be in a slight state of chlorosis, but have since regained color now that the sun has come out for July. Note that the newer growth on the tree has larger leaves than the earlier growth. Other than the leaf issue, this tree has seemed to improve in vigor every year after struggling its first few winters, but having strong summers. Note that after inspecting root flare just now, I also aerated the soil around it, and added some iron supplement, and tree fertilizer.

'not the best draining soil'

Are you talking marginally not well draining or heavy clay content soil?

If the later, it could very well cause the issues. Soft maples generally are known for not doing all that well in heavy clay soils.

Your silver cloud is a selection of the species Acer saccharinum (silver maple) and that species will grow well in clay and even in standing water for much of the season.

Otoh: Your autumn blaze is a hybrid of Acer rubrum (red maple) and Acer saccharinum (silver maple). I would suspect the red maple heritage is what doesn't like the lack of drainage.

I've not had any trouble growing Blaze in heavy clay, Bill. They only complain if the circumstances are excessive for too long - standing water or mucky soil that persists for numerous weeks. I've also read of Acer rubrum being referred to as "swamp maple" in other parts of the country.

Smaller than normal leaf size without any obvious trunk damage, would seem to indicate a root issue. How was your snow cover this last winter? Did you lack snow insulation throughout most of winter like many of us in the north did? I'm not convinced Autumn Blaze is quite as zone 3 hardy as most places list it as. The origin of the tree is Ohio after all. I've seen more than a few younger Blaze crap out or suffer severe winter die-back in 3. Obviously, many other factors could be in play with that though. Any severe drought conditions last year?

Bottom line, if your tree was in serious decline, you wouldn't likely see the nice second flush of growth with the larger leaf size that you have going on. This would seem to indicate that, if there was some root damage (or another issue), the tree is already starting to recover. I wouldn't worry about it anymore this year. Wait until next spring and see how it looks then.

Kinda cold for this tree. In my experience, it’s not very hardy and I’m supposedly in zone 4

You the man mntg.

And not to argue, but we have plentiful Acer rubrum in my area, and you never see them in a 'swamp' where it stays continually wet all season.

You see them around the higher edges of swamps where the soil stays consistently moist but never see them where standing water stays for more than a couple/few weeks, generally during spring rainy season.

I've always thought 'swamp maple' was a funny name which I never hear that name around here.

Thanks, mntg!

Funny all the sources say z3.

Maybe z3 with a foot of snow. ;-)

A few more inches of wood mulch then for next winter.

James, good job uncovering the root crown. Doesn't actually look bad (I can see your previous work), so I'm at a loss for its situation. Sometimes a tree just doesn't do well (I have a couple examples).

Bill - I'm guessing whoever develops the cultivar sets the hardiness zone range and everyone else just follows that. Someday I'd like to meet someone who is in charge of developing new tree cultivars. I'd have a ton of questions about the entire process - from selection to production for market.

So many other factors to hardiness besides just temperature. Annual precipitation, humidity, soil types, micro-climates... I think seed source is also something that should be factored in.

Thanks, mntg!

I know in my more northerly climate; a nice deep snow cover, early and throughout the winter, causes everything to break out in a more robust manner once spring arrives. ;-)

And I'm a firm believer in applying a thick covering of wood mulch, on the newer and/or more sensitive (borderline?) plants, in the Fall. It all helps.

:0)