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betsy_gitelman

How to install glass see-through tiles?

Hi. I want to install these tiles in the floor:

https://www.houzz.com/products/atmosphere-2-in-x-2-in-100-recycled-glass-square-tile-in-iridescent-citrine-1-piece-prvw-vr~89206909


However, they are see-through. How would you install them? Will gray grout under the tile do the trick? My installer says the grout isn't smooth when it's put down, but will pushing the tile into the grout work okay?


Thanks. I'm doing only a small strip of this to connect two hardwood rooms -- about 4-6" x 12 feet.

Comments (9)

  • PRO
    last year

    You need an even surface behind clear tile like that. If the grout is applied spotty, then you will see that through the glass. In the samples in the link, it's likely the tile was clear glued to a flat board and then grouted in. In the lower pics, the tile is just straight clear glued to a board with no spacing or grout. Be aware that if you want to achieve that look, you are hand setting them. Mesh backing shows through. If they come on mesh, you would need to remove it and clean the tiles.

    Instead of treating this like a tile flooring project, you might be better off treating it as a mosaic project. Instead of grouting the tile into place like it's flooring, you would prepare the strip with a smooth surface. And then set in your tile. After it's cured, you do your grout detailing.

    I work at a place that amongst the crafting is mosaic stuff. There can be a visual difference between wet setting into a bed of grout vs placing tile onto a surface and then grouting in after.

  • last year

    That is very helpful, thank you. They do not come on mesh. I will check with the tiler to see if this is something he can do, else I will find someone who specializes in mosaics.

  • PRO
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Those are NOT to be used for floors. Nope. Nope. Nope. I don't care what Hzz lies about in the specs. No non vitrified glass on a floor. Ever. The PEI is gonna be a 0. And NO, you do not use grout for setting tiles for any floor, or component required to be durable. Adhesive strengths are different between grout and thinset. Glass already has a huge challenge with adhering to a even a high quality thinset. Add floor traffic to that, and popouts and shatter tile is a sure outcome.

  • PRO
    last year
    last modified: last year

    It didn't look like they came on mesh, but I wanted to mention it. If your tiler isn't good with hand setting that, doing it DIY isn't difficult. I see new folks at classes on the regular that make beautiful things. But if they can make you a nice smooth surface to put your tile to, that would be lovely.

    ETA: if you don't have a sample of the tile, get one. A 2x2 tile in a 4-6" wide strip means 2-3 tiles wide. If you can dry fit in an example, do so.

  • last year

    @Minardi is there a type of glass tile that would work for basically a decorative strip on a floor? If not, I do have other options and can move away from this idea. I just really liked the look, and it fits with some of the Industrial style elements in the home.

  • last year
    last modified: last year

    Lunada Bay recycled glass tiles(in the silk finish) are suitable for light residential floors. They are significantly more than the $3/sq ft of your inspiration though.

  • last year

    Thank you, I'll take a look. These are $3 a tile, not per sq foot. But it's a small space.

  • last year
    last modified: last year

    I think beesneeds has provided great advice. I would also suggest setting the tile onto something - and then setting that into the floor space. These tiles appear to be sold per piece - separate 2"x2" tiles vs. a 12"x12" mosaic pre-set on mesh backing.

    I have seen people do something similar for a fireplace. They used Schluter foam board cut to the size needed for the fireplace surround - then they added the mosaic tiles to the foam board - and finally, they attached the foam board to the fireplace surround (the type of fireplace must have allowed foam board as an acceptable material on the surround).

    Glass tiles are very tricky to set - if the mortar is not correct (example - trowel lines are not fully collapsed), you will see lines/voids/bubbles/etc. through the tile itself.

    These tiles will also need spacers since they are not pre-set on a mesh backing. This will allow you to determine how wide the grout lines will be.

    I would make a sample using special mortar for glass (I assume that is necessary - although I've only seen this type of tile set vertically - not horizontally on a floor) - white mortar so that the color of the glass does not change. You could try using a gray mortar on a sample piece - maybe you will like the color that the tile is with the gray vs. the white?

    I definitely would make sure to hire someone who is experienced in setting glass tiles + has used them on floors before. I know that some people use them on a shower pan (seems like it would be slippery - but maybe the tiny size provides enough grout lines in order to make the surface not slippery when wet.

  • last year

    After reading all of the advice, I reconsidered using glass as a material, as it complicates the project needlessly. (I found some hardwood borders that will do the trick.) Thank you all very much for your help.

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