The orange is more related to the poly getting old than the stain. Dark seems to be where the trend is going. If they were mine I would strip them down, sand out the stain that's there and poly with one that won't orange over time. Finishes have improved a lot.

Are you doing this yourself? Were you planning to strip and use stain? You mention general finishes java which makes me think you want a coat over the existing with a tinted poly- that will never be lighter than the existing unless you use a whitewash.

@HALLETT & Co. Will be getting a professional to stain the cabinets.

Don't want something lighter than the existing stain - just a lighter brown or medium brown (no orange or red).

Java multiple coats is too dark as my kitchen does not get a lot of light. One coat seems like a medium brown color. Do you have an suggestions for a medium brown stain?

Thanks

I too am curious about how to even out the tone between the frames and doors. If it cannot be achieved then I wouldn't invest in staining them. (I'd keep them as is and get new countertops.)

@herbflavor No prep work has been done - cabinets are old, but in good conditions.

Looking for medium brown stain options as kitchen does not get a lot of light.

In my experience those tinted polyurethanes always chip and they tend to look blotchy if not applied well. Since your cabinets are not in perfect condition sanding, priming, and painting will get you predictable results. Gel stains/ glazes are super finicky.

@Kendrah It's the cabinets that need to be updated. New stain or paint. Good point on evening out the frames and doors - a question I'll ask my contractor.

The countertops were just replaced with Venetian Ice Granite and I love them. They hold up to heavy cooking, easy to clean and I like the colors.

if you are getting a pro to finish these doors..you can get the evaluation and recommendation from that individual. You generally know what you want to end up with. they should be able to go through this..meaning the time the cost and the details and even give you a sample on your material. there is no need for guesswork in any of this. but you say "no prep" yet.... I think some sanding or stripping and preparing the surface..depending on what yo pick, will be part of this. the surface looks uneven. but someone in person will go over this with you.

@herbflavor The contractor will just do the staining with the color I want. He is not going to suggest colors that's why was hoping to get some ideas of color choice here,

There will definitely be prep work done. I thought you meant prep work was already done on the cabinets that's why I said no prep work done.

If those were mine, I'd opt for new doors and drawers to achieve a more full overlay look rather than go to the considerable expense of professionally stripping/sanding/staining partial overlay doors.

If you do decide to use the old doors, then have the contractor strip/sand one door and apply a range of stains on the inside of the door for you to choose from. That way you can see a few stains on your particular wood. I hope the contractor has a plan to even out the doors and frames if you don't opt for new doors since in your photo there's a notable difference in color.

english chestnut is one Ive had good luck with. I usually end up making my own formula w all the stains I keep around because I have a lot of old furniture and I acquire things here and there so I am used to getting the shade/intensity the way I want. English chestnut ...you dont have to worry much about too red or too gray ......its just a matter of how deep you want it. . the other thing find a LOCAL independent paint store. they have a customer service desk and will open up a few shades of whatever stain..[ many times better than minwax] and apply it right to the back of your door . you can see their sample board and pick 2 or 3 to test..... these trained guys are really helpful when this is all new to you.

Are you using a stain meaning ALL the original stain and finish will come off, or are you using a stain and finish in one that goes over what you have to tone it? They are completely different approaches that both have their place but regardless you have to make samples on your wood. I may think provincial is a medium tone and you may think it’s dark.

@tlynn1960 That's a good point to think about full overlay doors. May be the best option.

Contractor would not need to match doors and frames then - correct?

Do you know of any place (online) where full overlay doors can be ordered? Thanks.

@herbflavor Thanks! Will check English Chestnut. Also. good tip on local store to test stains.

@HALLETT & Co. Thanks! Will check provincial. I was thinking "stain and finish in one that goes over" what I have to tone it . But, now replacing with full overlay doors may be a better choice.

Scherr's is a good place to order nice doors/drawer fronts. I have others that may be helpful for you to consider.

Question - if you are replacing all doors/drawer fronts and making them full overlay - will you still want a stained red oak OR would you want painted ones?

@dani_m08 Thanks for the recommendation. Will check them.

Guess if I replace doors/drawer fronts I may just go with an off-white or navy or sage green. Won't be wood.

I am confused are these new cabinets already installed and now need stain or existing that have been stripped . IMO not worth refinish if old and to replace doors is as much cost as new and you will still have disfunctional lower cabinets with huge loss of storage unless you do true full overlay cabinets and all drwaers for the base ones , I rarely think refinishing old cabinets is worth the money either .

@Patricia Colwell Consulting, Thanks for replying. Picture shows the existing old oak cabinets.

I was thinking of a gel stain or some stain to change that golden oak color to more of a brown with no yellow or red tones. Also, add hardware (door/drawer handles).

Choices are :

1) Wood stain and add drawers to lower cabinets

2) Replace doors/draws with full overlay doors in moody green-gray, navy or off-white

3) Replace with IKEA kitchen

For staining something like General Finishes Java (one coat) or Antique Walnut.

JAVA (ONE coat only)

OR

Antique Walnut

What do you think? Thanks!

You will sand through the veneers if you try to sand off the existing stain. And the stain HAS to be sanded out of the wood to do a new stain. The ONLY option to have a new finish on them is to paint them. Replace them if you want a different wood stain.

OP can also use a gel stain to change the color of the wood stain - the old stain does not have to be sanded off in order to use a gel stain. I think that's why OP is looking at General Finishes gel stains.

@mar 77 -

The Antique Walnut gel stain looks interesting. I tried using GF Java stain with my sister at her house - the first coat came out looking uneven and we had to do two coats (which then covered up a lot of the grain).

There is a company in Kansas (small city) that makes replacement doors that are good quality and pretty inexpensive. They only make around 8 door styles (although I believe that they can custom match existing doors = they can make other styles than what they list). They specialize in painted doors/drawer fronts - but have connections for stained wood doors/drawer fronts. Their doors are between $12 - $15 SF (diy - unfinished). They will finish them using conversion varnish in any SW color. Shipping is free. They have made many shaker doors + shaker variations (including beaded shaker + slim shaker) + are able to make raised panel doors/drawer fronts also.

Raile Cabinetry - owner Nick Raile (it's a family business). I know two people who have use them to replace doors/drawer fronts/pantry doors/bathroom vanity doors and drawers. One purchased unfinished doors/drawer fronts and the other purchased finished ones ($22 SF for finishing). Both friends change from partial overlay to full overlay - and both had Nick help confirm that the sizing for the new doors/drawer fronts was done correctly,

Many people buy the diy unfinished ones and use a fairly inexpensive sprayer in order to create a nice finish. If you look on FB, there is a group that helps people with "how to" advice re finishing cabinetry (including the right products to use in order to get a durable finish - same products that professional refinishers use).

I don't personally know Nick - but I have spoken to him recently about replacing doors on my laundry room cabinets - he was very nice and helpful.

Here are some photos of Raile cabinetry's work (from actual customers):

Here are drawer fronts + side panels for a custom closet:

Built-in door replacement:

Here are photos of their new slim/micro shaker doors/drawer fronts:

They are now offering RTA cabinets also with their doors/drawer fronts on them:

OP can also use a gel stain to change the color of the wood stain - the old stain does not have to be sanded off in order to use a gel stain. I think that's why OP is looking at General Finishes gel stains.

@mar 77 -
The Antique Walnut gel stain looks interesting. I tried using GF Java stain with my sister at her house - the first coat came out looking uneven and we had to do two coats (which then covered up a lot of the grain).

There is a company in Kansas (small city) that makes replacement doors that are good quality and pretty inexpensive. They only make around 8 door styles (although I believe that they can custom match existing doors = they can make other styles than what they list). They specialize in painted doors/drawer fronts - but have connections for stained wood doors/drawer fronts.

Their doors are between $12 - $15 SF (diy - unfinished). They will finish them using conversion varnish in any SW color. Shipping is free. They have made many shaker doors + shaker variations (including beaded shaker + slim shaker) + are able to make raised panel doors/drawer fronts also.

Raile Cabinetry - owner Nick Raile (it's a family business). I know two people who have use them to replace doors/drawer fronts/pantry doors/bathroom vanity doors and drawers. One purchased unfinished doors/drawer fronts and the other purchased finished ones ($22 SF for finishing). Both friends change from partial overlay to full overlay - and both had Nick help confirm that the sizing for the new doors/drawer fronts was done correctly,

Many people buy the diy unfinished ones and use a fairly inexpensive sprayer in order to create a nice finish. If you look on FB, there is a group that helps people with "how to" advice re finishing cabinetry (including the right products to use in order to get a durable finish - same products that professional refinishers use).

I don't personally know Nick - but I have spoken to him recently about replacing doors on my laundry room cabinets - he was very nice and helpful.

Here are some photos of Raile cabinetry's work (from actual customers):

Here are drawer fronts + side panels for a custom closet:

Built-in door replacement:

Here are photos of their new slim/micro shaker doors/drawer fronts:

They are now offering RTA cabinets also with their doors/drawer fronts on them:

Your surfaces need to relate to one another. You mention painting the cabinets cream, sage, or navy, but have just installed Venetian Ice Granite which is usually cream/brown/black. Navy and sage would relate to your floor and counter how?

Is your flooring staying? You probably should slow down a bit and develop a complete plan so that surfaces aren't changed in isolation without relating to the other hard surfaces.

@KT Builders what @dani_m08 said. With GF gel stains the wood needs only a light sanding.

@dani_m08, Thank you so much for the very useful information. I think I'll eliminate Java 1 coat but test Antique Walnut - 1 coat as i want to keep the grain. Maybe candlelight too.

The full overlay doors look good. Will check with Nick. Thanks again!

@tlynn1960, The granite piece I have has cream, very light cream, white, gray, dark gray , brown and black. Overall look is shades of cream/taupe. The floor is similar cream/taupe. The backsplash is cream with a mother-of-pearl shine on some tiles. Appliances are dark-gray.

Pre-built cabinets are available is white, off white, navy and sage. I think a navy could go with the cream/taupe counters, floor and backsplash.

My first choice if painting would be a gray-green like SW evergreen fog. I think it goes well against cream/gray/brown granite and gray appliances .

Sage, off-white and white would be last choices. White is too bright and sterile - imo.

So, I did think about the other surfaces when thinking of cabinet color. Easiest choice would be staining the wood as I do like the warmth of wood.

Do you think gray-green, navy or off-white cabinets would not go in this kitchen? Can you suggest some other color choices. Thanks.

Gel stain will need several coats to not be blotchy. Several coats will make it darker, and hide more of the grain. It is just a thin paint, not a true stain. , The cabinets look painted by the time there is enough coats that the blotchy look is gone.

@Simon Templeton & Associates That's a good point.

I watched a demo of GF gel paint and yes it does sit over the wood. They said that this particular gel paint was not meant to be several coats (but that's how it's being used) and one coat would be sufficient to change the wood color and still show the grain.

However, I too think that just 1 coat could end up blotchy, but am open to testing 2 coats - maybe 2 light coats.

1 coat - dry brushed - not blotchy