Paint the section of wall above the cabs the same color as the cabs to downplay the contrast and they blend in together.

That’s pretty bad. I would have them come back and use a flat crown.

Call them back don't start messing with it until you get their solution

That whole center section with the hood needs to be pulled forward deep enough so the crown dies into it. Or eliminate the cabinet you can’t reach anyway so the crown can extend uninterrupted.

IMO who ever designed this needs to make it right. That cabinet is all wrong there and IMO so is the hood and that bow really makes it worse .

This is a DESIGN issue. When you stagger height of cabinets, you must also stagger the depth. The crown projection has to be factored into the math of the whole. That over the range cabinet thing is way too shallow, and the "hood" thing is dysfunctional" and unattractive. Remove all of that. Replace with a real actual chimney hood in stainless. Then the crown will have a place to return.

what did you request.....

all you need is simple molding...the style would be okay on top of the hood cabinet only [maybe] if you want to leave that.....But Id yank it off the double door sections lower down..get a strip of something smaller that butts into the side of the higher up cabinet. A carpenter can do this and ask for credit unless you DID NOT specify or DID ask for this./ then the cost will have to be absorbed Its too much for the lower situated cabinets.

Oh dear! The issue here is that the hood portion is already projecting forward for the exhaust - it may or may not have been able to be pulled forward any further and still have the unit fit without changing the cabinets along side. That particular hood is attached to the cabinets next to it and is just a front as opposed to a whole box that could easily be brought forward.

This is 90% designer error and 10% contractor for not picking up on it when starting to install the crown.

If you don't want to rip that wall out and start again, have the installer set a piece of filler behind the crown and return it on itself.

Good luck and make the designer pay for any additional material that needs to be purchased.

As usual, Debbi has covered everything + provided the solutions! You should print off her posts and head up to Lowe's + provide one to your contractor!

Debbi Washburn thank you for the photos. That is what our design looks like. We wanted a different hood, but the store told us it would not work. So, we had to get the faceplate hood or nothing. The store will no longer work with us since it has been over a year. They ordered us more crown and told our contractor to work it out....somehow. The panels are 30 doors as that is what we had to have for the panels to look balanced. They won't order more of anything unless I pay for it. I talked to them today. I am trying to find a number for Lowe's Corportate to try and get some help. I am at a loss.

We have staggered cabinets as well. The crown on the lower cabinets is much smaller.

None of these numbers worked when you googled Lowes corporate?

Y'all are missing that Lowes didn't physically do the job construction or cabinet install. They just sold cabinets. They aren't kitchen designers, and aren't even good cabinet sellers. She was the job GC and coordinated all the materials and labor. And reviewed the initial design, and signed off on it, to be ordered.

The GC's (her) installer is the one that screwed up and didn't do a hanging chad return that would have modulated the look. This is a design and GC issue that should have been raised before the cabinets were installed, over a year ago. You sign a waiver that all the measurements are correct, and you accept the design, before they will order anything. They don't provide the labor, they don't provide solutions to issues either. It's the homeowners' job to figure out the stuff they signed off on. Over a year ago.

The GC didn't understand cabinet design any better than the "cabinet specialist" person putting together the design. And not enough to instruct the installer how to approach the issue. Lowes might buy you a filler, but that's the extent of any help they would provide after a year, when they didn't even do the install. It's up to the GC to find a new installer, if the old one has washed their hands of the job.

Duplicate post too.

The easiest way out is to by a 6" filler. Use it as a base trim under the decorative door panels and space the doors out. Line up the top ones with the top of the ref panel and evenly space the rest. Then have our contractor do the molding return like the pictures I posted.

Trying to do anything else is going to open a whole lot of issues and cost you more money.

That would be taking down that whole hood thing and buying a cabinet ( modify the depth to 18 or 21" - whatever your vent size is ) and putting that in. The molding can land next to it and you can have a simpler style of hood. This will be dependent on the the size of the hood unit you have and the type. Photos would help.

Now if you want to be technical, this is not the correct way - doing a 30" wide cabinet over a 30" wide stove because you have wood ( the sides of the cabinet ) over the stove - fire hazard. The hood really should be at 3 - 6" wider than the stove when dealing with wood hoods.

Honestly - this is what I would do. Remove that higher cabinet. Put a horizontal filler above the hood to make it even with the cabinets next to it and just run the molding across. Forget the raised look.

Good luck!

Debbi, I am in contact with Lowes Executive Customer Service and have also posted photos here. I did not know we were getting a face plate hood until much later. If we move it up, our contractor will have to install more backsplash, which is also expensive. I am hoping Lowes will help. I also see that our dishwasher has gaps on each side due to improper measuring, and I am seeking help from Lowes. Our kitchen is vented through the wall. There is nothing in the top upper cabinet but an appliance I found when looking today. Fixing one thing dominoes into another problem. I trust it will all work out. Thank you SO much for your help and advice. I knew nothing about a fire hazard either. Lowes never talked about that. We could have left a more significant gap for the hood. We have an invection 30-inch cooktop below the hood.

No one said to move the hood. Leave the hood, remove the cabinet above with nothing in it, and attach a section of matching filler to fill in the remaining 6” x 36” space. Now you can run the crown across uninterrupted. You’ve proven to yourself that high cabinet above the hood serves no function. At that point they will have very minor wall repairs and paint to hide their mistake. They owe you the cost of that cabinet that is now not going to be used.

Did the installer leave 24" for the dishwasher space? That is what is normally done. Some euro dishwashers are slightly under 24 and they come with filler strips to fill the space. Or you decide ahead of time to make the rough in for the DW what you want it to be.

If you don't like the filler strips they provide, then get a filler to match the cabinets. It will look more built in...and can be removed down the road if you get a wider DW.

How wide is the opening for the dishwasher? If it's 24"...then I would leave it at that.

Agree with Debbi Washburn....take out the cabinet above the hood. And insert a horizontal filler above the hood....continue the crown across. If you need to "hide" any exposed ductwork....do so with framing and drywall....paint to match the walls.

Having the doors open into the deeper hood is something that a good designer with experience would NOT have done. That's a pet peeve of mine. Avoid that if at all possible.

You can learn to live with this set up...use bumper pads and hinge restrictors. Or you can have the uppers reordered so they open AWAY from the hood. What they did isn't necessarily "wrong".....but an experienced and thoughtful designer would discuss it with you during the design phase.

If it were me....I'd get rid of the upper cabinet, use a horiz. filler instead and have the crown molding go continuously across.

Hope this makes sense. Good luck Beverly....just an FYI...my best friend's last name is Hulick too! (From Ohio)

99% of everything shown is installer related. The DW legs aren’t even adjusted to have it be plumb! Or worse, the cabibrrs are installed out of plumb. None of that has anything to do with who sold you cabinets. That whole install is just bad. No professional did it, that is for sure. Either the homeowner or some low skilled handyman did that.

Question - where is the vent pipe for your hood? does it go into the wall?

Here is my advice ( now that I have seen the whole kitchen ) :

- Nothing else is staggered height in the kitchen - get rid of that cabinet and put a filler above it and replace that length of crown molding - this does not affect the splash

- order several hinge restrictors and put them on any doors that open onto something they will hit. That will solve the issue by the hood.

- Measure the opening for the dishwasher. If it measures 24" wide, then the DW is installed wrong. What brand of DW is that? Did the designer have the specs of the appliances when selling you the cabinets? If the space is wider then 24" , order a filler and have the space made smaller and reinstall the DW. Something is every off right there.

Good luck

Yes, it is vented through the wall. The cabinet above the hood is empty.

Debbi: Yes, the dishwasher was paid for and held when the design was made. It is a standard GE dishwasher. We had all our appliances purchased and on hold when the design was drawn. Lowes Executive Customer Service is involved now. Thank you for all the help. I don't care if it is raised or not I care that it looks good. The dishwasher opening is 26.5.

26.5”? Idiots. Dishwashers have been standard at 24” forever. They at least owe you two fillers plus the crown fix. Bless their hearts.