I am not an expert re: wood and wood finishes - however, the butcher block countertops from F&D were finished based upon them being used in the kitchen = food safe finishes. Food safe finishes are not nearly as "tough" as non-food grade finishes. Also, they need to be reapplied often in order to continue to provide some protection to the wood.

You have not done any upkeep on the original finish + are using them in a different manner = as a laundry room countertop vs. a kitchen countertop where they need to be finished with food safe products.

You will need to sand the countertop in order to remove (i) all of the remaining original food safe finish, and (ii) the staining. Once the countertop is back to it's "raw/unfinished" state, you will then be able to use the appropriate finishing products that are needed in order to protect the wood from coming into contact with water + laundry soap (detergent).

I have some knowledge about finishes - but it would be better to have a professional (or experienced non-professional) provide the finishing process that should be used to best protect wood countertops used in a laundry room (including recommendations re: specific products that work best).

Just a thought. Once you had the butcher block looking good, you could cover it with an acrylic sheet to protect it and make cleaning easy.

• Plaskolite OPTIX 30″ x 60″ x 0.080 (5/64″) Clear Acrylic Sheet
• DURAPLEX 0.08-in T x 30.0-in W x 60.0-in L Clear Acrylic Sheet

Thank you both! Still doing my research on this. Appreciate your feedback.

Is it actually solid butcherblock or a veneer?

Those are some wicked stains. I don't have much faith in being able to sand those out. Not without leaving divots if you don't know what you are doing. Would be best to remove the counter in order to sand it. Or take it to a woodshop and have it planed down. Or, possibly flip the counter with the stained side on the bottom.

FWIW, white oak has a lot of tannin and, IMO, the stains are primarily tannin bleed. Yes, after you get it cleaned up, you can apply multiple coats of original Waterlox. For a long term solution in a wet area, WIWD is replace it with a wood look laminate. There are a lot of very realistic looking 'wood' laminates available now that aren't anything like Grandma's old butcher block Formica.

Yeah, those are not coming out and sanding them out will leave divots.

Here’s an update. Looking much much better. Right now it just looks super dry and in general, it feels that way as well. After doing a lot of reading, I’m learning that mineral oil and conditioner was most certainly not the right choice for laundry room butcher block.

There has not been mineral oil or conditioner put on it in about six months… I’m wondering if I went straight to water lox sealer and then used a satin finish, if it would adhere to the butcher block?

Trying to avoid the sanding process… At that point, I think I would just do mineral oil again to bring back the color and then put down an acrylic sheet on the area next to the sink.

It is also solid butcher block to answer millwork man’s question.

It needs to be sanded for any new finish to adhere properly.