That's a custom design, and custom install. And about 6K, at a minimum. Could be lots more with all the froofrah of remote blowers and pipe dampers and all the rest to create quiet. If you are up for that, find a local kitchen designer who has all the right trades in their pocket to do all of that. You need a cabinet maker, and electrician, a HVAC person, and a roofer. At a minimum.

If you want to fall back and use something stainless with an attached internal blower, that can use a standard 6" vent pipe that already exists, then look for something from Faber, Broan, or Ventahood with low sones. Sones is how you measure noise. Quiet is not pretty unless you go expensive. https://help.broan-nutone.com/en/range-hoods/What-do-the-CFM-and-Sone-ratings-mean-fe3

Start with your budget. How quiet can you afford? How pretty can you afford? How effective can you afford? Usually, you cannot get all three without a very high budget. One needs to have lower priority.

I have a GC and a cabinet guy. It’s a whole kitchen/den/laundry gut and reno. I really want to go the painted hood route…but budget is $2000, not $6k.

Your link was helpful for understanding sones. Thank you

2K is not going to get you even 1/3 of the way there. Or include the code required make up air system either.

Seriously? That’s disappointing. I’m not looking for commercial quality, just something that works and isn’t ridiculously loud.

Painted hoods by GC's tend to have the finish degrade rapidly, unless they source them from the same production cabinet manufacturer that does the conversion varnish for the cabinets. Those tend to be 3-6K, without the matching blowers, if they are coming from a company that knows how ventilation actually needs to work. Curves are the most expensive options, because wood doesn't curve naturally. It has to be forced to bend through various methods.

If the cabinet supplier is local custom, then that's a total crapshoot for longevity, as a lot of them farm out painting to some house painter using substandard house paint products. They would need to be actual custom cabinet makers, using quality 2K finishes in shop, to produce something that would withstand kitchen wear and tear. And there is no way on the planet that they would product a hood like that, with an insert, for 2K.

3rd party options tend to use the absolute cheapest, loudest, possible insert that is sold, because they focus on looks, and not functionality or quiet. A lot of them don't even have the insert fully cover over the wood shroud surrounding it. Which again leads to finish degradation of the wood and potential fire hazards. If they don't come already finished in a CV or a 2K product, then you're left with someone slathering on housepaint that might last long enough to be past their 12 month labor warranty. But, probably not.

You need to go back to the drawing board with your expectations and budget both.

"I really want to go the painted hood route." Are your cabinets also going to be painted? I'd check to see what your cabinet maker can do, style-wise. Might not be exactly what you have pictured, but if it's a match to your cabinets would still look nice. Then see what your GC might be capable of doing (just in case he/she is very talented and can do a design like the one you posted. You'd need to get a color match to your cabinets.)

Be prepared for the need to provide make-up air. (It's required by code in my area but I don't think it is everywhere; but it's safer to have it anyway as far as I know.) In my remodel it meant including an extra large vent high on the wall (not sure what else went into it.) If you want a deeper dive, there's more here: range exhaust hoods faq

Performance (includes noise abatement), aesthetics, affordability -- pick two or trade among them. With a 30-inch wide hood over a 30-inch electric stove, maybe with 18 inches of depth as hinted by the wannabe hood image, one would want a flow rate of about 400 CFM actual, 600 CFM rated. But that assumes wok cooking or steak searing or other greasy hot cooking. More tame cooking might allow getting away with less.

Inputs we need for comment (well, actually we tend to comment unrestrictedly here, but for pertinent comments applicable to your situation), please specify the type of cooking performed, whether you intend to duct out the wall or up through an attic to the roof, whether you have combustion appliances using air that is connected to kitchen air.

okay! cooking performed: regular simple-as-I-can meals for two, no woks or steak searing but boiling water for pasta 3x month, vented through the attic, and iI know what combustion appliances are so I would say no to that.

And my kitchen is 144sq ft but partially open on one side to a 400sq ft den.

Hoodsly has the vent wrap in my picture and offers a Tradewinds insert if I want, but I dont know anything about those. I would most likely buy the Hoodsly wrap, but if there is a superior/somewhat quiet insert that does what vents are supposed to do under normal suburban daily life, I’ll get that insert instead.

Hoodsly is a crapola con game. They have the cheapest loudest inserts available. The unfinished products will never ever get finished to match your cabinets. They physically can’t. Even if you compromise and choose an accent color, you would need to take it to a professional cabinet finisher with a spray booth, if you want it to be durable. That finishing uses 1/2 to 3/4 of your budget, right there, without even buying the base product. Or dealing with makeup air installation. Or hood or vent pipe installation. Or anything else.

"I can only have a 30” hood over a 30” electric range."

• Cafe CVW93044PWM matte white range hood
• Cafe CHS900P4MW2 matte white single-oven induction range
• Cafe CHS950P4MW2 matte white double-oven induction range

Modest cooking leads to modest requirements, and in this case I would call the requirement 'simmer ventilation.' For this you could get a hood (sans blower) that meets your aesthetic taste, or an insert for some box structure you could have fabricated. You will get more flow with actual baffles than mesh filters.

Use an in-line or roof blower rated at 400 CFM or less (so no formal MUA is needed), and put a 6-inch duct sized Fantech silencer (LD 6) in the attic between blower and hood. This configuration should be pretty quiet. 6-inch duct and 300 actual CFM (at best) gets you 1500 ft/min duct velocity, which is in the desirable range.

As you scale to higher CFM (I think Fantech makes an inline 6-inch duct blower pulling over 400 CFM), you will need to have some type of passive (no blower) connection to outdoors that filters and heats (depending on locale) incoming air.

When the blower and hood are made by different sources, you may have to put the blower control on the wall, like a light dimmer. Blowers in this power range are easily controlled.

Thank you!!!