SW generally says that the Designer Series is the only one you can use to get the designer colors. The base is a whiter base than their other products. When the designer series first came out you could not order the designer colors in any other product line. Now you can. I don't know that the lighter colors, brighter whites will be as bright and clear if you use the Original Emerald vs the Designer Emerald - have not bought the same color in both bases to test. I don't think it would make much of a difference with anything but the lightest colors.

Alabaster isn't one of the designer series colors - was in the lineup prior to Designer.

Emerald is a oil modified waterborne urethane hybrid , not a latex.

I would hate a satin finish on walls. I prefer a matte finish and using Benjamin Moore Aura paint. The Alabaster isn't going to lighten the space by much, but will make it look "yellow" instead of gray.

Both of the paints you are looking at are Acrylic Latex paints.

I agree with chispa - don't do satin on the walls. That is too glossy - best for trim. Eggshell or matte for walls, flat for ceilings.

I assume you tested Alabaster and it is lighter and warmer than your current wall color.

If not - order a sample from samplize.com so that you can see a good size sample and make a decision based on samples large enough to see.

Look at it next to your flooring, compare with the white on your trim, cabinets and countertop and see if it feels to warm. It will look yellow next to the gray, but as long as it isn't too yellow next to the finishes and colors that are staying you will be fine.

I would not choose SW but I do agree matte for walls and I actually use the same for walls and ceilings and when using whites the same color too, The bonus with ascrylic is if you happen to oil based paint it is covering it will still stick. You lighten a space with lighting not paint IMO. For me Alabaster is too creamy /beige