Have you tried Bayer Complete Insect Killer? It contains the systemic insecticide, imidacloprid, which is absorbed into the rose's tissue. The result is a paralyzing effect upon the thrip when a rose's insecticide infused circulatory fluids are ingested by a feeding thrip, or bodily contact is made upon a thip with the wet spray. Either way, paralysis and death are the consequences.

Imidacloprid sprayed externally upon all above ground rose: leaf surfaces (tops), buds, and bloom surfaces, is only absorbed systemically into the rose surfaces it makes contact with. It does not move to/translocate to new growth made through the rose's circulatory system. New, never before sprayed growth is vulnerable until it is sprayed...hence the necessity of a tight spray schedule at first. Rose surfaces that have been previously sprayed need respraying at the two week or so schedule also, along with new growth, i.e., full/entire bush spraying. The expectation is that repeated, complete bush sprayings will effectively knock down the population dramatically, until no or less frequent spraying is necessary as the thrip population declines/dies out.

Moses.

Thanks, Moses. Will check it out for next year.

Spinosad has worked for me in the past. I also had luck augmenting my population of minute pirate bugs at my old garden. Planning on going that route here also.

Thanks Judi and Diane for your advice. Will definitely look into this for Spring 2026,

Bellarosa, In the past, I have used Orthene and it worked better on thrips than the Bayer insecticide but I haven’t used it in years because I would get a spider mite explosion. Recently, late summer/ fall aphids have been a problem for me. The Bayer insecticide doesn’t seem to do much good. I’m wondering if insecticidal soap would work for thrips and aphids in my garden? Good luck!

Any certain brand of horticultural oil and spinosad recommended?

Pirate bugs. I had to apply them twice over the season (maybe they’re not long lived?).