this is strictly my opinion. If it were mine.

If all you are really after is a fresh change up to a kitchen you said was a 2nd home, not ready for an overhaul, YET.

I would paint the existing backsplash first with KILZ® Adhesion Primer. Then a topcoat of a color you want, compliments your existing countertop, and can live with.

What you will end up with is a smooth, light tile with texture, as if you choose a solid color tile in the same configuration that you already have.

A day or two of painting labor, and the cost of a gal. of primer, and a gal. of finish paint.

@Lyn Nielson - Yes! That would be my first choice too. But, I have a ton of joint pain and am ridiculously sensitive to paint smells. (Ugh, autoimmune diseases!) I think the scrubbing, sanding, and painting is going to be too much for my body.

I have considered doing a crappy job of it - not sanding, quickly rolling on some Kilz while wearing a huge respirator mask, and staying at my parent's apartment while the smell off gasses. See how terrible it looks and how long it lasts. And then I thought paying someone to install a splash might be more pracitcal.

no need for sanding or scrubbing as you say...

Wipe it off and paint on the Primer. Let it dry and paint on the top coat.

that's the whole idea, Do it and be done. As far as the smell/fumes, I don't notice any with KILZ primer.

Hire someone to do it. Get some painters tape and tape off the countertop edge and paint.

couldn't be easier.

Thanks for the encouragement @Lyn Nielson. I’d looked at many youtube tutorials and everyone was using degreasers and sanding, sometimes multiple rounds of sanding. I don’t think I can hire anyone for such a small painting job. But if I can just role it on with no hard cleaning and sanding, and it doesn’t smell, I can give it a whirl. If it looks crappy I could always just go with tile.

@palimpsest - Good to know they have improved the look of peel and stick. I’ve seen some pretty bad ones. I’ve been concerned too that the plastic of them would be smelly.

@Lyn Nielson - What are your thoughts on this primer Zinsser bulls eye zero? I looked up the Kilz and think the VOC levels would kill me.

the Zinsser 123 or Extreme Adhesion will work, I've never used the zero.

you mentioned above rolling it on.

I personally would not do that as you may get a thick coating rather than brushing on a light coat over the grout lines and tile.

You can always apply a second coat.

It sounds to me, like this is not a project for you to tackle.

I chuckled at: "It sounds to me, like this is not a project for you to tackle." You are right! Between the odors and my obvious lack of skill... But, now I'm somewhat encouraged to try.

I mentioned rollers because that is what all the YouTube gals were using who painted their splashes. If I use a brush won't there be a lot of brush strokes? Could I brush on with a foam brush? As you can tell, I suck at painting. I have painted a few second hand bookcases and chairs in my life and there were drips and streaks everywhere!

You are smart to remove that grey black backsplash as it clashes horribly with the brown toned cabinets. Be sure to use warm tones in new backsplash. Removing it will most likely require drywall repair. Go with white appliance - they never have and never will be out of style like stainless or black which are both on the way out. And get a new stove - those flat tops are difficult to cook on and the black top clashes with the kitchen - ugh.

My sister lives in a 100+ year old house. just because you have plaster doesn’t mean you have to keep it. You can remove the tile and if the plaster is ruined you cut the lath out and replace it with drywall or cement board or whatever your tile installer wants to use. There is a possibility that the plaster won’t be destroyed, but if it is, it’s not a deal breaker or a wallet buster.

BUT HERE’S THE THING. You have glass tile. Demoing glass tile is how I ended up having surgery on my finger. I’ve written about several times, so I’m relieved you are hiring a contractor. It’s a filthy, dangerous job removing and prepping for a new installation.

They may decide to remove a row of tiles and saw through the plaster to remove the tile en mass. That’s what I’d do if it were drywall. And as much as I love tile, I would 100% go for the 4” Corian. Will it be a different dye lot? Yeah. even so it’s your cleanest option.

Ugh, sorry about your finger surgery. No worries here - I'm not demo-ing anything. I can't even figure out how to paint. :)

Is it difficult for this kind of lathe demo-ing to be done without messing up the cabinets and countertops? We in no way want to replace these cabinets. All I can imagine is taking a sledge hammer to the wall. How exactly is it done? I presume it is not too common to do this kind of a demo with counters and cabinets in place. Correct?

I think you’d be surprised. Most often when done on a grand scale you would remove all of the plaster and lath from ceiling to floor and replace it with drywall. But the previous owner may have done that before installing your cabinets. And even if he didn’t, you can marry a plaster wall with a drywall repair. It is not at all uncommon.

Backsplash changes that retain the cabinets and counter tops are very common around houzz, although we may not represent average folks.

It’s a seizure inducing backsplash tile. I’m so glad you’re getting rid of it.

Painting would be an optimal cheap and easy solution.

I think right now painting those tiles is what you need to do > I would normally use Klenk but with your issues a good primer and as mentioned you might need to be gone with all windows open for 2 days at least winter is still not here ,

I really like Pal's peel and stick idea. Much easier than contractors tromping in and out, prep and paint smell for days.
I would order a package to test it out, have family member open it and air it out on a balcony. Perhaps you can use thin cotton gloves while you are putting it up to eliminate your direct exposure.

Have you considered contact paper?

It's just a thought.

In 1948, it would most likely be plasterboard or Rock Lath under the plaster which is almost like drywall.

I have never seen anyone use sledge hammers for demo unless the entire house was being gutted to the party walls (I live in a rowhouse city) or on HGTV shows. This would be dissected out by cutting it and removing it (while avoiding plumbing and electrical in the walls.

Actually I think having a pro carefully remove this and patching the backsplash area with new drywall without any damage to upper cabinets and countertop would cost more than it was worth.

You could also just tile right over this tile. I've seen that done.

This is all great brainstorming. Thanks.

The fridge wall is shared with the neighboring unit and solid as concrete. No plasterboard there for sure. Therefore, I concur with @palimpsest that cutting out the wall without damage to the uppers will cost more than it is worth.

I like the idea of tiling on top. Do any of these situations change your mind about doing it and how would you remedy them?

This is just a sample Dalitle I have on hand to show the depth.

- Door trim. The tile would sit almost flush with the door trim. Not ideal but fine enough, do you agree?

- Window Trim Tile on top would be proud of the window trim. Could a bullnosed edge tile take care of this and look passable or would it be completely awful?

- Next to fridge. The current tile just stops with a ragged edge next to the fridge. (Classy right?!) If I tile over it will be two tiles deep of ragged edge. What kind of trim can be applied there to finish it off?

For context, these apartments are purchased either by the wealthy parents of mostly international undergrads, med students doing residency, and a wide range of retirees some who drive old Toyotas and others with Audi's and Mercedes. This is the lowest priced unit in the building, and always will be.

*** Whatever fix I do now, I want to be the last before putting it on the market in 5-10 years. I don't want to redo this again. ***

Daltile is nice, inexpensive, high-quality tile that has the trim pieces you need and offers some lovely glaze options.

I understand the desire to save money, but price out what it will cost to do this correctly before you make the decision to tile over existing tile. Your tile is going to be even with or proud of your trim and neither is great. You’ll see the double tiling when you pull out your fridge or stove. I understand that you don’t value that property highly, but you value your eyes a lot and you’re going to see where you’ve cut corners every time you look at it. Not everything has to be high end, but it should be done correctly if possible.

@eam44 I appreciate your take on it. Do you think that the Dalitle pieces at the window and door trim will look acceptable enough or absurdly wonky? If you had to choose between tiling over and painting over the tile, which would you do?

(I'm totally fine seeing the double tile when pulling out appliances. You'd die if you saw the double tiling job done in the bathroom here and visible inside the vanity cabinet - old 1949 turquoise peeking out beneath 2000's Tuscan faux travertine. Yikes! I'm not touching that.)

It isn't just the price that concerns me about having the current tile demo'ed but the risk it runs demo'ing the thick plaster walls and damage being done to the cabinets and who knows what else. These are not just easy to cut swaths of drywall or plasterboard. It feels like picking at a thread and seeing a sweater unravel. My luck with contractors is not good enough. I feel like I'd be opening a can of worms.

If I don't tile over, I will just have it painted over.

I would also paint the tile - i’d want the backsplash just to recede and as you say the new tile over old will sit more forward (and likely look bumpy in the space)

I think the reveal next to the door trim looks fine. As to the window, is it possible to build out that trim with an overlay of 1/4" mdf (it paints beautifully) or poplar? It looks like the sill depth could handle it. Next to the fridge...that edge could be cleaned up with a Schluter edge. Just some possible work-around ideas if you decide to over-tile.

Its fine next to the door. the window would drive me crazy and one other area to be concerned about is the space behind the faucet. in the photo it looks like it could impact that negatively. keep in mind you will also have additional thickness from the mortar.

“keep in mind you will also have additional thickness from the mortar.“

So helpful, thank you. This could be the deal breaker for tiling on top of existing tile. The mortar could make the tile too proud of the trim to be a reasonable solution.

“ As to the window, is it possible to build out that trim with an overlay of 1/4" mdf (it paints beautifully) or poplar?”

Someone has already built out the trim and there is no more room to add because the cabinets are in the way.

For a little context, this is inside the bathroom vanity. And this is the shower.

I will not renovate this bathroom. I will just be painting the turquoise to look ever so slightly less janky. And when we sell I will price the unit accordingly.

I’m quite realistic about not making a profit when we sell this. It is an apartment that will have served our needs. It is a place to be when visiting my parents - not an investment.

Does this context change anyone’s mind about how the backsplash is treated?

You could just add the thicker trim under the cabinets, like the trim had to be cut in order to install the cabinets. And you could make the apron under the window extend to the countertop and not add more time under there at all. It would take some designing, but if you want to change this backsplash without demolition, you are going to have some negatives, just like you do with demolition.

how about you try the Zinsser Zero on the tile inside the vanity cabinet and see what you think of it?

Smart idea @Lyn Nielson. Thank you.

When I had to choose I chose DIY/surgery 😂

I would paint. It’s faster, easier, less expensive, and you get to choose your exact color. It requires a high-adhesion primer and a durable epoxy paint like SW Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, so you might need to be out of that space for an extended period of time with your sensitivities. I hope that helps.

BTW, while they are at it they could paint the tile inside (why?) the vanity. You can also ask your cleaner to try to clean that shower grout with Clorox toilet bowl cleaner.

Tell me just how useless this painting of the backsplash might be and what I'll be in for if I use a zero voc acrylic latex paint from SW or BM.

I have to use low or no VOC paint. I simply cannot risk using something like the urethane trim enamel. Sometimes it takes months or longer for products to off-gas to the point where I am not sensitive.

"You can also ask your cleaner to try to clean that shower grout with Clorox toilet bowl cleaner."

What a ruin my plans to select a wall paint color to match the dirty shower grout?! 😂

I agree with those that are saying use the peel and stick tiles. They make really nice ones now, and they seem to go on very easily. My granddaughter used them in her kitchen, and 2 yrs later, she peeled them off, and put on new ones, to match her changing decor.

Does anyone have suggestions for the best brands of peel and stick tiles? I have seen some in person at Home Depot that looked cheap and fake. But I'm open to using other ones if any of you have recommendations.

I need an off-white, biscuit subway.

Our realtor and I agreed it is the one thing that must be changed before we list it in the future. It really ages the kitchen and is such a turn off in listing photos. So why not do it now so we don't have to be visually accosted by it for the next five or more years when we stay here?

The other thing that needs to be done is the crappy "wood" flooring in the bedrooms. Some of the seams are looking like raggedy cardboard. It is awful. But, I can handle living with that until we move. The off gassing of new inexpensive flooring will kill me.

I deleted my comment but you're right the tile does not photograph well!

You could credit the new floors in escrow. Your Realtor would decide if that's mentioned in the listing but would only draw attention to them.

I would leave it alone. This is a temporary place for you, so why agonize over a backsplash? Your realtor says to update it before you list it. That’s ironic considering the person you bought it from didn’t. And you bought it anyway.

That’s ironic considering the person you bought it from didn’t. And you bought it anyway.

This unit sat for at least 6 months, continual price lowering. I was in a totally desperate situation and that's why I bought it. There is obviously more wrong with it than just a backsplash. But, I'm a big believer in listing at the correct price and taking care of a few major eyesores to make a sale more competitive.

What about Formica? Very thin, .027" and easy to cut to shape. No thick thinset...just glue it over the existing tile.

I found this but not familiar with the company:

https://wurthlac.com/laminate-finder?45938=2

Notice the thickness options which are considered vertical grade: