This is the ribbed tile I’m thinking of putting in place of the 16” of subway at the top. It would actually go 24” up.

The shower head wall looks to be greenboard. Greenboard is not the proper substrate in s shower even with Redguard. I would look at starting over completely as what you have will not be waterproof. Not what you asked about but what is obvious to me before you even discuss tile. And no ribbed tile of any sort in a shower, think about the cleaning aspect.

The layers he installed were the green board, red guard then cement board. Does that make it waterproof?

Nope, if that is truly what happened and in that order then that is a recipe for a mess. I am looking at greenboard which has ZERO place in a shower under any circumstances. The waterproofing systems that are allowed to be drywall to have waterproofing over them (membrane or board type only) are not to be used over greenboard at all, just normal drywall. The greenboard is treated with a waxy type surface and does not allow proper adhesion of anything other than paint.

The entire thing is a full redo. And hopefully you do a better design next time too. Throwing in bits and pieces of this and that and different patterns is NOT "designed". And that white ceramic soap dish is the cherry on top. It goes with nothing.

I don't understand why your contractor would have randomly decided on his/her own to finish the top of the back shower wall with a vertical stacked pattern when the rest of the tile in the shower has been installed in a horizontal stacked pattern. Makes zero sense to me. It also makes no sense to add the wood look tile where the vertical stacked tile currently has been installed. It would look much nicer to just continue the horizontal stacked tile pattern.

How tall are your ceilings? What height is your shower head installed? The tile should at least come up past the opening for the shower head pipe - preferably, the tile would be installed up to the ceiling.

The bigger issue is related to how the shower has been constructed. The way that you've explained it makes no sense. Installing green drywall + adding RedGard over it before installing a layer of cement board is not one of the ways that shower walls should be prepped for tile. How was the shower pan constructed? I assume that wasn't completed correctly either.

Did you take photos while the work was being done? Does your contract have a detailed scope of work that includes how the shower will be constructed?

If the shower walls have been built the way you've described, your contractor is responsible for remediating the incorrect work (for free).

" Installing green drywall + adding RedGard over it before installing a layer of cement board "

@dani_m08 the way he describes cannot be the way it is as there is greenboard drywall clearly as the top layer. Anyway you slice it, this is not correct and is reason enough for a do over but I digress as that is not what the OP asked about and most likely why the OP has not returned..

The layers are as follows: drywall, concrete board, red guard, mortar, tile. I was wrong with my original post.

By the pipe for the shower head is greenboard (drywall), again greenboard does not belong in a shower for anything. I doubt the balance of the shower has concrete board as the last layer before tile and the area above the tile has drywall, my bet is it is all drywall last layer before tile.

They did not start with a clean surface. When they removed the existing tub unit, they didnt properly clean up the surface, at the top. You can see where the top row is bulging out.(opposite side of shower head). This also happened on the back row. This caused the two walls to not be level. I am wanting to remove 3-4 rows at top- and the lovely soap dishes- but concerned about disturbing the red guard. Any ideas. Starting over is not an option right now.

This is a gut for the entire thing, to the bare walls. There's no other option that won't lead to moisture damage. It's going to mold and rot.

Since the tile isn’t grouted yet, you’re in a good spot, that makes this much easier.

Removing the top two rows can be done, but it needs to be done carefully so the waterproofing behind the tile isn’t damaged. That’s the main thing to watch for. Take your time during removal and check the membrane once the tile is off. If it’s compromised at all, it should be properly patched before new tile goes on.

A wood-tone ribbed porcelain tile can look great as a finish, just make sure the thickness lines up so you don’t end up with a lip, and double-check clearances if there’s a shower door or trim at the top.

If you want to share a photo or mention what waterproofing system was used, I’m happy to give you a quick second opinion so you can move forward confidently.

That is a technical disaster. And a design disaster. Take the time to learn WHY for both, before you gut and redo.

@Above And Beyond Builders did you read the OP's thread, he has a hot mess going on and is in no way in a "good spot".............................